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65 FL Triple Tree Dilemma

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    I've got some tape measure spring left over if you need it, Mike!

    And its perfect.

    ....Cotten

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  • steuerm
    replied
    Just had someone contact me with a fix. Round stock with an O.D of the boss. .Then using a larger dia. drill or end mill drill into that piece of round stock on end so as to leave a thickness equal to the gap. The piece after being cut would resemble a crescent moon and maintain a good deal of contact area.

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  • steuerm
    replied
    I understand what your suggesting. I might try several wraps of shim stock around the length of the bolt so that in addition to taking up the boss to bolt gap it would prevent it from working itself free. How long would that last? .Might have to think of something else. Thanks for that idea. I’ll hunt down some old springs as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    At very high mileage, Michael,...

    It can cause tracking issues and tire wear.

    Its an inherent design fault, but...

    My last two assemblies were easily shimmed upon the pivot bolts within the bottom tree with just pieces of recoil spring from a tape measure.

    ....Cotten

    Leave a comment:


  • steuerm
    replied
    I have read all the past posts discussing the installation of the adjustable trees on a sidecar setup. No answer for mine.This post is the lasted so it seems a good place to ask.
    Under normal driving conditions I get a noticeable noise as the front end travels over very crappy roads. Raising the front end off the ground and rocking it fore and aft, It seems the noise is from the rake adjustment boss. That is to say that the bolt and special washers displayed some motion within the boss. Certainly you expect some motion but how much is the question I’d say I’m looking at no more than 1/16”. Not much but it gets your attention at those larger potholes. Has anyone looked at that motion before you put your bike on the ground?

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  • JSB55
    replied
    Originally posted by ryan View Post
    John, did you get your sidecar mounted, if so, how does ride?
    Got sidetracked on another project, so the bike is not yet fully assembled, and I'm missing the front tiebar for sidecar mounting, anyway, so it may be a while. You might know, that tiebar is the one part of the sidecar attachment that is not readily available either as decent shape OEM, NOS, or repop.

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  • ryan
    replied
    John, did you get your sidecar mounted, if so, how does ride?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubone
    replied
    Originally posted by JSB55 View Post

    And, or course, you're right as usual, Robbie. This front end has been driving me nuts. Confusing enough that HD used casting numbers that, in this case, were in some cases one digit off from the part number (DUH!???) Palmer Ed 2, p 115 describes the 60-64 setup for an adjustable fork, then in one sentence says 65-68 is the same, which I guess I glossed over, since he started a new section for 65-68.

    It did not make any sense to me they would have introduced that plate for a padlock without a spot on the neck to also engage it, which, sure enough, showed up in 69.

    Back to Plan A, cutting off the welded on lock plate and drilling the stem to accept the lock plunger.

    As it happens, I had a lock kit sitting in my parts box, and it has the welch plug for the hole in the front of the neck, so that mystery is solved for me, as well.

    Sorry to have troubled you, but glad I asked!

    John
    Never be sorry! The unasked questions are the unanswered ones..

    Leave a comment:


  • JSB55
    replied
    Originally posted by Rubone View Post

    Sorry, but you are incorrect. If your forks have a welded on padlock bracket they are '69 and later trees. No '65-'68 ever had a lower fork bracket with a padlock plate. And the hole in the frame for the neck lock from '69 up was never drilled, just still in the casting. You are misreading Palmer's info.
    Your parts book will not show anything for a plug because no such parts existed.
    And, or course, you're right as usual, Robbie. This front end has been driving me nuts. Confusing enough that HD used casting numbers that, in this case, were in some cases one digit off from the part number (DUH!???) Palmer Ed 2, p 115 describes the 60-64 setup for an adjustable fork, then in one sentence says 65-68 is the same, which I guess I glossed over, since he started a new section for 65-68.

    It did not make any sense to me they would have introduced that plate for a padlock without a spot on the neck to also engage it, which, sure enough, showed up in 69.

    Back to Plan A, cutting off the welded on lock plate and drilling the stem to accept the lock plunger.

    As it happens, I had a lock kit sitting in my parts box, and it has the welch plug for the hole in the front of the neck, so that mystery is solved for me, as well.

    Sorry to have troubled you, but glad I asked!

    John

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubone
    replied
    Originally posted by JSB55 View Post
    So, thanks to Forum and AMCA Member Paddy, I now have a correct set of adjustable triple trees. As confirmed via the Palmer book, when these were used, the frame did not employ the neck lock, since the trees had an extra plate at the bottom, drilled for a padlock to be used to lock the front end. The neck lock boss was in fact blocked at the factory. For anyone who has done the modification, how did you plug the neck lock boss? A 3/4" cork or rubber plug can easily be driven in there, but how to hide it? I've thought about a thin coat of either JB Weld or Black RTV, then paint. OR ???

    Same question re blocking the hole in the front of the neck that would normally be used to insert the lock "piston", then sealed. How was that done? My parts book doesn't show any sort of plug that might have been used.

    Thanks!
    Sorry, but you are incorrect. If your forks have a welded on padlock bracket they are '69 and later trees. No '65-'68 ever had a lower fork bracket with a padlock plate. And the hole in the frame for the neck lock from '69 up was never drilled, just still in the casting. You are misreading Palmer's info.
    Your parts book will not show anything for a plug because no such parts existed.

    Leave a comment:


  • JSB55
    replied
    So, thanks to Forum and AMCA Member Paddy, I now have a correct set of adjustable triple trees. As confirmed via the Palmer book, when these were used, the frame did not employ the neck lock, since the trees had an extra plate at the bottom, drilled for a padlock to be used to lock the front end. The neck lock boss was in fact blocked at the factory. For anyone who has done the modification, how did you plug the neck lock boss? A 3/4" cork or rubber plug can easily be driven in there, but how to hide it? I've thought about a thin coat of either JB Weld or Black RTV, then paint. OR ???

    Same question re blocking the hole in the front of the neck that would normally be used to insert the lock "piston", then sealed. How was that done? My parts book doesn't show any sort of plug that might have been used.

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • JSB55
    replied
    Thanks to fellow Member Paddy, I now have a correct and nearly complete OEM adjustable front end! Sometimes, things just fall into place.

    Leave a comment:


  • JSB55
    replied
    PM sent, Paddy.

    Leave a comment:


  • paddy
    replied
    John, You are in luck. I have a origional correct casting coded OEM adjustable tree setup that I was going to use on my 65. At this point I will never get to setting up a side car rig. It is ready to go . drop me a message and we can make a deal. I paid $800. for it Paddy

    Leave a comment:


  • JSB55
    replied
    True dat. I'll take that as a vote for the adjustable trees, even if repop. You're one of 4 or 5 voices on here I always know I can get solid info/advice from. Thanks!

    Leave a comment:

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