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  • Side Car Component Questions

    I am fitting a sidecar to my 65 FLH. The booklet I have states that the lower left and right connection plates brackets (#87205-58 & 87206-58) are to be installed 10.75 inches below the bottom edge of the uppersafety guard bracket.

    What I am asking about is the measuring point for the brackets.

    1. Is the distance measured from the centerline hole for the tie rod? Or..........?



    Seems that any lower would not work.

    2. Also I have 2 sets of shackles. One set is longer than the other. Does it matter which I use?


  • #2
    I did this a year ago installing a 1950 sidecar frame to my 1976 FL. The only difference in yours and mine is the rear mounting bracket at swingarm. There is only one pair of brackets at the rear of leaf springs which measure aoorox 2 1/8" from eye to eye of bolt holes. The other set you have may be for a package truck. The front mount needs to be installed were it fits relaxed to down tubes with sidecar frame hooked up and side car body fairly level front to rear and side to side. I believe the manual means 10 3/4" from bottom of crashbar mount to top of front sidecar mount, not center line of hole. To get mine relaxed and sidecar body approx. level, the dimension on my front mount is actually 10 3/4" from bottom of crash guard mount to center line of top ubolt at front mount. This mounting position is slightly higher than what the manual shows, however my sidecar body is level. Also, the front downtubes slant in slightly from top to bottom and the up or down position of the front mount can slightly change toe in or out. I had to get sidecar frame hooked to bike and running to find best compromise in sidecar level, toe in, and bike lean out.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Buster View Post
      I did this a year ago installing a 1950 sidecar frame to my 1976 FL. The only difference in yours and mine is the rear mounting bracket at swingarm. There is only one pair of brackets at the rear of leaf springs which measure aoorox 2 1/8" from eye to eye of bolt holes. The other set you have may be for a package truck. The front mount needs to be installed were it fits relaxed to down tubes with sidecar frame hooked up and side car body fairly level front to rear and side to side. I believe the manual means 10 3/4" from bottom of crashbar mount to top of front sidecar mount, not center line of hole. To get mine relaxed and sidecar body approx. level, the dimension on my front mount is actually 10 3/4" from bottom of crash guard mount to center line of top ubolt at front mount. This mounting position is slightly higher than what the manual shows, however my sidecar body is level. Also, the front downtubes slant in slightly from top to bottom and the up or down position of the front mount can slightly change toe in or out. I had to get sidecar frame hooked to bike and running to find best compromise in sidecar level, toe in, and bike lean out.
      Thank you Buster. That really helps me out.

      Comment


      • #4
        How are you going to notch your front pipe to clear the cross mount? I gave up heating and dinging mine and cut a notch and welded a concave 1 3/4 pipe into the front pipe for my notch. It looks so much better. I just had issues with not being able to ding it in far enough.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Ryan, good to hear from you. How have you been? This site tells me I am not logged in, so I can't send private messages. Who needs private messages? I'll just use the forum where I am logged in to answer you. I have a nice frame, S pipe and repop fender. I still have not bought the front mount and brake rod. I have a very rusty tub that I will repair or use as a pattern. My 1941 FL is up and running so I am not in any hurry to work on the sidecar. This was my first foot clutch so a real learning curve. This is my second year on it and I am much better at it and switch from it to my foot shift Pan or Road King with no problem. I may burn some candles on a skull and sacrifice some small rodent, then try to reset my password or email or maybe not, I don't know. Thanks.

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          • #6
            Well I stumbled around in my profile and without logging in or reseting my password or email, I was able to reply to a private message. This is amazing for me, and any attempt at explaining it would only confuse a knuckle dragging computer neanderthal like me. Sorry for the highjack, back to your post.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ryan View Post
              How are you going to notch your front pipe to clear the cross mount? I gave up heating and dinging mine and cut a notch and welded a concave 1 3/4 pipe into the front pipe for my notch. It looks so much better. I just had issues with not being able to ding it in far enough.
              I will be doing this step in the next few days. Putting a '44 LE hack on my '47EL. I may try the heat and bend method. But the cut and weld is always an option. Did not realize until today how far up and buried that top mount clamp is on the frame. Hate to disturb my tanks. But you gotta do what you gotta do. Also concerned about cable and wire routing. That top clamp limits cable space.
              Regards,
              Rob Sigond
              AMCA # 1811

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              • #8
                There is plenty of room for the cables, it isn't as tight as it looks.
                Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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                • #9
                  Thanks. I figured it would all fall into place once I get in there.

                  I asked this in another thread, but nobody had replied and I'm thinking nobody is following that thread. Does anyone have a copy of the original LE instructions that came with a new hack that they would be willing to share? Although I don't expect any issues, it would be nice to see how the factory recommended the installation and alignment be done.
                  Regards,
                  Rob Sigond
                  AMCA # 1811

                  Comment

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