Trike tech needed

[olddaze]

Here is my Trike.

Runs great and I've had it on the road now for a few years. It has had one nagging problem ever since I finished building it.
It will jerk and growl on take off (especially when cold) just like a bad throw out bearing. Here is a list of what I have already done trying to correct the problem.
Removed the early throw out bearing and installed a little one (no change) Put a new big one back in (no change)
Running FL gears in a rotary transmission. Had another trans sitting around so I swapped it out to see if maybe I was over looking something inside the transmission (no change)
Removed the used 3 stud clutch and replaced with a new 5 stud with new steels, fibers, long rollers, clutch tamer and aluminum pressure plate (no change)
Removed the compensator sprocket I had on the motor and ran a 22 tooth fixed and currently a 23 tooth fixed sprocket (no change)
Lubed the clutch cable and tried a different perch (no change)
Tried every countershaft sprocket from 20 tooth - 24 tooth and to be honest I cant remember whats on there now. Gearing must be descent because taking off in second takes some effort and I can easily cruise at 65 mph (no change to the growl & jerk problem)
Swapped out to a non-kicker cover with a different finger, shaft and clutch release arm (no change)
OK, pulled the rear axle. Servi hydraulic type. checked all the bearings, installed a new sprocket while I was there, followed the service manual step by step on going through the differential. I will admit that my experience does not lie with the axle stuff, but followed the book. (no change)

I'm totally out of ideas, I've been trying to figure this out for two years. Only clues I have are 1) acts just like a bad throw out bearing. 2) Worse when cold or taking off uphill. 3) Will do it in all gears I can take off in.

Anyone got any other ideas?

[kg993]

I know you already changed the clutch but every time I see that problem it's the clutch. Usually it's greese or gunk on the plates but could be alignment issues between the motor sprocket and clutch basket.
Also some oils grab or slip more than others. My best luck there has been Harley-Davidson Forumla + primary chain case lube. That is only usable if you have blocked off the motor oil recirculation and oil the primary seperatly though.
Kerry

[rickfaulk]

Just a thought, but doing all the work you have done and still have the problem, have you played with the timing or checked for crud in the low speed jet of the carb?
Rickfaulk

[olddaze]

Clutch plates were clean and dry. Tried switching to Barnett "wet or dry" plates and ran them wet using the Harley brand primary fluid. No change to the growling and jerking on take off. Did find out that my primary leaks more with that much fluid in there. Alignment is kinda set with stock motor shaft, stock trans mainshaft, stock clutch basket all held in place with an aluminum inner primary.
As far as the carb. Running an S&S "E" and awhile back I temporally swapped carbs with my other Shovel and offered no change. Timing. this is alittle tougher, started off with points and I had the threads strip out for the screw holding the points. Thought I'd try an electronic ignition and picked one up from Vulcan Works. Probably the easiest ignition I ever put in, put the mark in the window and turn the plate till the light comes on. Locked it down and haven't touched it since.

[Sidehacker]

What does the end of your adjusting screw on your clutch look like where it meets the pushrod . I had the same problem with my first shovel and I traced it to the adjusting screw. At one time I had put too much spring pressure on clutch when I pulled in clutch several times my adjusting screw heated up and lost its temper. It caused a host of related problems. When you change your clutch plates are you changing the small friction disk riveted to the hub . These are often over looked . FNA

[duffeycycles]

most electronic ignitions tell you to time to Top dead center-rotate till light goes out-or on.That is approx 5 degrees retarded for big twin and 10 degrees retarded for sporty.You must time with light at 2,000 Rpm for most.Easy way to time,open inspection cover align advance mark in timing hole and use white paint to mark motor sprocket or pulley and case. Check timing here.Barnet recomends soaking wet plates in autotrans fluid.Only a small amount of trans fluid in primary.If your tans leaks heavy oil into clutch you will have to reseal and possibly replace the main drive gear bushing.I think clutch problem.Sleel plates of top quality [not warped]Barnet carbon fiber wet or dry