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1913 Emblem Model 105

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  • 1913 Emblem Model 105

    New to the forum, and in conservation of a bike this old.
    I have more questions than answers at this point.

    My intent is to conserve the bike as much a possible while making it rideable.
    Most of the bike is there so im being careful not to do anything that impacts its history.

    I don't have a lot of excess funds to make this shinny and 1st in class.....
    On my to do list;
    1) have the engine rebuilt by someone with a solid reputation with single (Yale type) and at a reasonable price. Can I send just the engine or should it stay on the bike to be fully functional?
    2) Wheels and spokes are sketchy to be used as they are, so I'm assuming replacement wheel, spokes and rubber is OK?
    3) Looks as if it did not have a magneto but batteries in stead, I need to know what type of period battery I should look for or should I make the switch to a Mag?
    4) Seat pan and "Mesinger" stamped leather is still there but I would like to at least replace the leather.
    5) Centrifugal clutch and bearings feel as if they are completely gone.
    6) Fuel tank is original but had a fuel fire that caused the primer paint. I want to have it painted and patina to match the bike, at some point.

    I'm open to "how to" suggestions and recommendations of vendors.

    looking forward to the adventure.

    respectfully, Ken


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    Last edited by moritz; 07-05-2022, 02:00 PM.

  • #2
    Ken, I really think you need to do some of these things yourself. Particularly, the wheels. I can't tell if your tires are from the era, but they don't look that bad, and lots of moisturizing might make them pliable, and usable for light riding and display. I have an early white rubber tire on a 1915 sidecar and it's good enough to run. Natural rubber tires either survive the test of time, or completely go to hell but if they're still hanging in there, they are worth saving. With early motorcycles, never. . . NEVER cut spokes and do whatever it takes to save genuine spokes and nipples. You can start using penetrating oil now on the joint at the nipple, and spoke and let it work in. Many people swear by KROIL and I'm sure it's good; just keep at it, and let it get in there. Spokes, and nipples from that era cannot be replaced and there is nothing from the aftermarket that is correct. Genuine spokes, and nipples are superior to anything made today if your originals are still in good shape. Take lots of pictures of your wheels, and make drawings of spoke direction, and possible hub to rim off-set. The wheels are a good place to start and using common sense, and your own documentation you won't have much trouble lacing, and truing. You can do as good, or better than anyone you take those wheels to. . . And, save a bucket of money to boot
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

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    • #3
      Ken
      Welcome!
      Beautiful looking bike.

      Don't forget to visit the AMCA Library looks to hold some reading which may be of interest to you.

      Emblem 1.jpgEmblem 2.jpgEmblem 3.jpg

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      • #4
        Follow more on this Emblem progress in "Bike Builds"

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