'13 HD model 9A

[DanM]

So many people have posted their projects and provided learning for us, I thought I'd try the same during my '13 HD belt drive project. I will try to keep things going. Comments and advice welcomed, as this is my first teens bike. Here's a few shots of the frame I got. Although there is red paint on parts of it and the wheels, there is original gray behind the tanks. Also, I was able to remove some of the red paint and reveal the head stock decal. Seems pretty straight and solid as my foundation. I removed a couple of the broken off tank mounting screws on the backbone, and cleaned it. So far I don't see any problems.

IMGP0054.jpgIMGP0031.jpgIMG_1418.jpg

[DanM]

P1040690.jpgP1040689.jpgP1040688.jpgP1040677.jpgP1040675.jpg
This model uses a clutch on the rear belt pulley. So when the clutch is "in" and the bike is stationary, the belt and pulley still rotate. The wheel hub contains a coaster brake operated by the pedals pushed backwards, like a kids bike. The hub and clutch are missing a few parts, but overall in good condition. The first pic shows the splines on the hub that engage the clutch mounting. The send pic kinda shows the clutch, the third all the guts laid out, the fourth is the twin row ball race the clutch rides on. Notice the complete absence of wear after all these years! The fifth pic shows the cluch hub splines which engage with the hub. The clutch discs were very rusty, but it seems they are the same as later JD clutch parts (amazing use of previously designed elements). I'll try to add more pic as I go along.

[DanM]

IMGP0028.jpgIMGP0022.jpgIMGP0021.jpgIMGP0020.jpg

Here's the fork rockers that came on the frame. There are detail differences between them, including the casting marks. Notice the radiused edges of one versus the squared edges of the other. I'm certain these are later rockers- these have a 7/16" diameter axle hole, and the 13 is a 3/8". This takes me to the front hub which is also reflecting a 14 based on the way the wheel bearings are done. The 14 hub is not complete, so I am not sure yet if the wheel with all the lock nuts and dust civers would fit within my fork. The wheel was mounted to the fork with a long bolt, not an axle when I got it. So, I could conceivably run the 14 hub and these rockers, or find (?) the Eclipse 40 spoke hub and parts and relace the wheel. According to a 1910-1917 parts book I have, the forks are the same '13-'15.

Can anyone advise if there is a difference in the width of the different year wheels, would they fit, and any help with the casting numbers and the years of these rockers?

Dan

Thanks!!

[silentgreyfello]

According to a 1910-1917 parts book I have, the forks are the same '13-'15

They are the same in fit and function. Front and rear legs are both different. Rear leg has the boss for headlight mount in 1915. Front leg lower castings are different too. When I get a chance, I'll take some pics of orig forks for 1913 and 1915. Rocker castings... I can't remember off the top of my head.

[DanM]

Well, I've been collecting a few parts and making some progress. For the rear wheel I'm making up new races for the left side- will share those pix when done. So, I have switched to the sheetmetal. I got a rear fender blank from Danny McGill and need to fit it up. So I thought I'de share my gas tank progress. It had a few dents and I could see some rust through, so am planning to disassemble, solder it up and get it back together.IMGP0154.jpgIMGP0166.JPGIMGP0165.jpgIMGP0164.jpgIMGP0163.jpg
One thing that surprised me was the tank is made from 12 different pieces, but the main tank is 1 piece- the inner and outer is created by a fold at the top edge where the tank mounts to the frame. And the bottom edge of the outer tank is Zeed, or seamed, so that the inner edge fits into a channel formed in the seam. It was interesting to figure out the order of operations to disassemble. Here you can see the end panels that came out to allow access to the inside so I could look around. The big hole you see was cut by me in a very rotted section to get a look inside to see what I had. I soaked the tank in Evaporust and then some phosphoric acid to remove much of the rust.

[DanM]

20131120_224319.jpg20131120_224324.jpg20131123_163434.jpg20131120_224358.jpg20131123_163837.jpg

Here's some pix of the inside of the tank now that it is apart. To separate the inner and outer I had to file through the fold, and I did the same to remove the rotted seam on the bottom- in one pic you can see how I filed to just break through the fold and separated it with a knife- in soime places the dolder bonder it, so I heated it. My plan is to totallt clean the inside with glass bead cabinet. I'm going to tin the entire inside with solder and then repair it with brass mesh or steel sheet soldered to cover the entire innner survace and reapir all the holes. Except for the hole I cut- which had to come off, I plan to keep the entire original metal on the outside. I'll remake the 3 baffles you see, and replace all the corner pieces and the 2 rods with new metal. Then, I plan to solder the inner and outer back together and reinsert those end pieces and voila TANK!

I did this to my JD tank and it worked- and there was a 2 part article in the mag which gave me the confidence to try it before. But I feel its better to try to save it than hang it on the wall. After all, I bought it, there's not too many original tanks aroiund that don't need help, and if I need a repro tank it will be after I try to save this one. The amazing thing is how well the solder protect the metal- when you clean off the factory solder, even now 100 years later it flows nice and the metal under is solid.

I'll post more pix as I get the soldering started.

[c.o.]

I'm watching with great interest on this tank resto. I've got one sitting here that needs some love and I've been hesitant to tackle it. Perhaps I'll be inspired to give it a go! You've got a great project there Dan. I'll be keeping an eye out to see what the results are and how you got 'em!

[exeric]

More power to you Dan. I think it's great when people do their own work and that is what this hobby is all about. I recently did an inside repair on my Excelsior tank and found that you have to be a bit careful with the glass beads, or sand. It's good for rust removal, but can be a problem when you do the tinning if it isn't totally removed. I found that a rotary wire brush in a right angle die grinder worked well for getting residual glass beads out of the pits. Also, mild acid washes, followed by more wire brushing, soap and water and what ever it took to get a clean, shiney steel finish. I even looked at the surface with an eye loupe to make sure all the rust was gone. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know; just reliving the joy I had for days on end, sweating over that rusty old tank. Like you, I can't bear to give up on a genuine part that needs some help. Looking forward to your progress Dan.

[duffeycycles]

On CAIMAG I think Terry Marsh said the 13A and 13B rockers were '15-'16.

[MMasa]

Can anyone tell me if the early rockers have any markings on them at all. I have a set of what I assume are 1913 rockers (bushed but with the 3/8" axle hole) They have the squared edges like the ones Dan pictured but they have no forging marks at all. I don't know if they had been removed at some point in their lives or if they were never there. I was going to use these on my 1910 single.
Thanks
Mark Masa

[ATTACH=CONFIG]11669[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]11670[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]11671[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]11672[/ATTACH]

Here's the fork rockers that came on the frame. There are detail differences between them, including the casting marks. Notice the radiused edges of one versus the squared edges of the other. I'm certain these are later rockers- these have a 7/16" diameter axle hole, and the 13 is a 3/8". This takes me to the front hub which is also reflecting a 14 based on the way the wheel bearings are done. The 14 hub is not complete, so I am not sure yet if the wheel with all the lock nuts and dust civers would fit within my fork. The wheel was mounted to the fork with a long bolt, not an axle when I got it. So, I could conceivably run the 14 hub and these rockers, or find (?) the Eclipse 40 spoke hub and parts and relace the wheel. According to a 1910-1917 parts book I have, the forks are the same '13-'15.

Can anyone advise if there is a difference in the width of the different year wheels, would they fit, and any help with the casting numbers and the years of these rockers?

Dan

Thanks!!

[duffeycycles]

Mark,I think you have '10-'13 Rockers

[DanM]

Mark- I am sure the ones you describe are correct- no markings, squared edges, 3/8" axle- just what I need. I have a pic some where form the Ohio meet. Will post.

MMM Duffey- those rockers look good MMM Good
Dan

[MMasa]

1910-1912 would be the same as the 1913 style but without the bushings, correct?
Mark

[Ian Biddle]

Can someone please tell me how I can contact Danny McGill. I have seen his name on this thread and I am looking for fenders for my 1912 8XE.

And / or does anyone have a lead on original fenders or someone else who makes repops? The 13 (twin &single) rear is the same as 12. The front is different to the 13 but I am using 13 forks so either 12 or 13 would do. (I have a 13).

Thanks in advance.

[DanM]

parts_book_forks_and_fittings-page-001[1].jpgIan- later I will send you a pm with Danny's phone.

Mark- the 10-12 have no bushings accordoing to this parts book page. '13 and 14 10A are the same, and the bushing shows up for '13 and 10A. I will try to attach a copy later. So, 10-12 appears to be a different rocker too. The studs are the same 10-13, so it would lead me to think the unbushed holes in the rocker are smaller on the 10-12...than the 13.

That would make Duffeys 13 and 10A or 14 belt single only....?