Atmospheric valve on early motor

[knucklehead 61]

are the timeless chassis very good? i've seen a couple for sale with real hd motors in them. seems like an affordable way to ride a pre 16 without worrying about damaging a real one.

[T. Cotten]

I hope Cory's okay!...

Its been quite a while since we have heard from him.

....Cotten

[flyin.mauer]

I really cant say what the appearance is of the frame, i dont have that part. I was asking for guidance with the carb tinkering with spring rates for air valve, and the engines intake spring rate for proper running, so if anybody has answers thatll be great!

[T. Cotten]

Flyin.mauer!

Our member Tommo posted H model airvalve spring pressure instructions, adjusted in the middle of their adjustment travel, depending upon the carb size. (3 oz and 5 oz, basically...)

(I recently encountered a very early 3/4" screw-on, with a very well preserved spring of a very small gauge wire, that was much less.. so its a good thing they are adjustable!)

I am totally ignorant of the modern reproductions, so photos would be appreciated, thanks!

....Cotten

[flyin.mauer]

Thats pretty cool to know that 3oz for the small schebler is what it takes to unseat the leather valve. Mike lang has told me his motor idles real sweet with a spring having only 2oz before it unseats, and this makes sense as most everyone has over rich running troubles. Id like to find where i can get a teflon replacement instead of leather so it isnt a factor either

[T. Cotten]

Flyin.mauer!

It is best that the teflon (or other material) is lathe-cut while installed upon the carrier bearing to make certain it closes "true".
And the seat in the airvalve horn should be piloted and cut clean to the same angle.

If you have a lathe handy, I have thirty pounds or so of PEEK scraps I sell at $.25 a gram...
(I looked like a drug dealer weighing it out at Davenport: baggies, postal scale and all....)

.....Cotten
PS: This 'Timeless' reproduction carb isn't sold as a bolt-on-and-go item? Or is it a kit?
Love to see a pic!

[flyin.mauer]

There not sold other than on a complete bike or complete motor, its just the way it is. Not a seperate parts dealer but more or less if your a purchaser of a timeless bike you can get parts if needed. You could always try calling Mike at Timeless and ask though. I was going to mention that the 2oz spring rate was in the " running position" not the air valves middle setting if that makes sense. Wish i had more to add but im still just learning as i go here

[T. Cotten]

Flyin.mauer!

I'm not in the market, I assure you.
But if you want any careful advice, I would at least need to know what it looks like.

...Cotten

[flyin.mauer]

Ok i will figure this site out as im new on here ( apparently a junior haha) and figure out some pictures to help!

[T. Cotten]

Maybe just a link to the "Timeless", Flyin.mauer?

Might be easiest...

....Cotten

[flyin.mauer]

Pretty much yes, there is spuratic tidbits of info spread throughout the forum all mixed in with different search words related to 1910 harley, j model, belt drive single etc, but since eople are using these parts its all part of the scene

[silentgreyfello]

are the timeless chassis very good? i've seen a couple for sale with real hd motors in them. seems like an affordable way to ride a pre 16 without worrying about damaging a real one.

Their frames are a horrible copy of the original. Also Aluminum tanks and toolbox. Garbage carbs. Spot them 50 feet away, but very affordable and fun for the $6k I paid for mine. I do ride my original 1910, but sparingly.

[flyin.mauer]

Hey there, well i knew id be masking a set of aluminium tanks and tool box, figured il make the carb work with tinkering and some tricks on the air valve etc, i wouldnt know the difference on the frame cause ive never seen a real one long enough to pick the variance between original or not. Some pictures of these things would be cool on here though