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Leaking Triumph monoblock carb after rebuild .................

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  • Leaking Triumph monoblock carb after rebuild .................

    Rebuilt this '67 tiger 100 Daytona monoblock carb the other day. Started it right up but gas pouring out the tickler. Took it apart thinking I left needle out or float issue but nope all good. Still needle will not shut the flow off. Am I missing something but what is the issue. Even tried old needle and no change. Any ideas out there???????????
    #7558 Take me on and you take on the whole trailer park!

  • #2
    Originally posted by KNUCK View Post
    Rebuilt this '67 tiger 100 Daytona monoblock carb the other day. Started it right up but gas pouring out the tickler. Took it apart thinking I left needle out or float issue but nope all good. Still needle will not shut the flow off. Am I missing something but what is the issue. Even tried old needle and no change. Any ideas out there???????????
    If you put a gasket under the fuel inlet assembly that's likely your problem. No gasket goes there -- it's a metal-to-metal contact -- and having one raises the fuel level above where it should be. Also, the needles originally supplied with the carburetors had a problem with sealing and were replaced by Viton-tipped ones. If yours is made of one piece of white-ish plastic it's the old kind. The new style are brass with a black tip of Viton.

    Another potential problem is the float. Shake it to see if it has leaked and there is fuel inside. If you can hear anything sloshing around you'll have to replace it (if it's an older brass float it can be fixed with solder).

    When you do stop the leaking, you'll still need to set the fuel level because you can't rely on the tang on the float being correct to the required degree of accuracy. To do this you'll need to make a fitting for the bottom cap that connects to a short piece of clear tubing. Mount it with the tubing running up, let the carburetor fill with fuel, and see if the level lines up with a small raised dot on the float bowl cover. If not slightly bend the tang on the float.

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    • #3
      I figured it out last night and just read your post. Yes you nailed it with your first suggestion. I took the gasket out and it's all good. Funny how such a small thing can make a huge issue. And it was the white plastic style needle, also will check the float level. Thanks for you input!!
      #7558 Take me on and you take on the whole trailer park!

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      • #4
        Originally posted by KNUCK View Post
        Funny how such a small thing can make a huge issue.
        It's all a matter of leverage. Because the needle is close to the pivot point, a small movement of it makes a large movement of the float. Glad you have it sorted out.

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        • #5
          Be sure you haven't forgotten part# 28. It is easily overlooked. (by me). With out this little "spacer" the float can slide away from the needle and/or lodge against the bowl cover. Please don't ask me how I know this.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            In the future, if you run across leaking fuel parts (monoblocks wear out and due to over aggressive tightening the flanges warp.) You can try a product called High Tack from Permatex. It's a red sealant that never hardens, fills gaps and is fuel resistant. I use this product when reassembling old fuel parts and it does the trick. Also the stuff is golden on petcocks.

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