paint clear coat

[PAM]

Clear Coat
This may sound like a dumb question but here it is.Can
you use clear coat on a paint job and still be compliant
with the amc ? Thanking you all in advance.
Pete

[AdminGuy]

Kinda a loaded question. Maybe the new judging over-lord can answer that one, straight up. Make, model, yr.?

You've read the judging handbook right? In PDF format on the judging dept. page.

[PAM]

clearcoat

Admiral Guy
Thankyou for the responce Iknow the ruel book says paint to resemble original.This is for a 1953 FLE color selection Black,
swatch for match from antique cycle supply.
Thanks again
Pete

[oldpan]

CLEAR COAT OK????

This is exactlly the problem with the judging at AMCA meets and why I have NEVER HAD MY RESTORED by the book??.. 1949 / 1950/ 1963 PANHEADS judged...someone asks a question that should be clear cut and everyone scratches their heads and say..gee it depends...this is not directed at members on this site , but on the judging rules... THE ANSWER IS ALWAYS.. ya better read the AMCA JUDGING RULES BOOK... as I SEE IT..YOU EITHER CAN OR YOU CAN'T CLEAR COAT...SO WHY DOES NO ONE HAVE AN ANSWER??? ....We need more direction and less grey areas...I FOR ONE WOULD RATHER PAINT IT CORRECTLY the first time than have someone judging my bike tell me I REALLY SPENT ALOT OF $$$ FOR NOTHING.... tc (OLDPAN)*

[AdminGuy]

Exactly- So for your year, marque, model, as it rolled off the line was your sheet metal clear coated? I guess that's the bottom line.

Modern paint quality is far superior to what was used. I'm not a paint expert. There seem to be so many variables. It really appears to be a challenge also when your using modern paint. Do you take a step back? I think alot of guys personally want some clear on to protect/seal decals, oxidation, and generally make life a little easier. And in turn -they don't want to get points deducted for it. So I guess, this is the controversy.

I see alot of bikes that appear to be maybe over done. This is why I find it so interesting to see something that has been frozen in time for a while. As is.
Sloppy paint job, overspray, brush marks, factory hammer marks-re fitting, etc. I love seeing brush marks! That's so cool!

I wonder If I can get Kevin or Robin on the hot seat here. Jim long? This stuff is just my personal opion which does not reflect what these guys have to say.

[kval]

clear coat

sorry it took me so long to answer this, but I changed email and had to sign up all over. the question of "to clear or not to clear" is simply put. if it looks like original DO IT keep the clear to a minimum. this does protect the paint and decals and is understandable, but keep it thin so it hardly shows. if it is real thick we WILL deduct for it. I am at most meets and you can come talk to me anytime
K. Valentine

[PAM]

clearcoat-kval

Mwmbers
Thankyou for responding.I will check with my painter there name is stone barn restorations who are commited to the auto industry
they only restore prototype and rare antique autos.Basically i will
ask well how light can you go with the clear coat.
Pete

[Hrdly-Dangrs]

To get a good idea of what a 'THICK' coat of clear looks like, just look at any modern Harley EVO and you'll quickly see what 'NOT' to do!! I would say a thin coat of clear (ENAMEL) would be no more then (2) 'wet coat' shots of clear by your local painter. Any more coats then that will start to look like the paint is encased in a clear plastic like the new Evo paint jobs. You could go 4-5 coats with 'Lacquer' easy because you have to wet sand in between coats of paint which will thin down the clear when finished for the 'Polishing' step. Lacquer in my opinion is the easiest to work with, faster & more forgiving of mistakes to the inexperienced backyard painter. If your doing it yourself, you can go 1 coat less, let it dry, then add additional coats if you need to cause you've got all the time in the world. But your local painter probably won't want to tie up his booth that long. For him, time is money. Later... ...Hrdly-Dangrs

[giza]

To clear coat or NOT to clear coat...

If you would like an opinion I will give one. I have used both basecoat/clearcoat and single-stage systems. IF your color is non-metallic i.e., most pre-50's bikes then by all means go SINGLE-STAGE urethane enamel. Diamont UNO is a fantastic high solids content single-stage urethane enamel. It wet sands and buffs in 3 hours! I used this product on my winning 1936 police VLH and I can say more good about it than it is fantastic.

IF your bike has a metallic paint finish there are some singe-stage enamels out there that are very nice and I guess I still like Dupont for that. UNO doesn't come in metallic. If you must go with a basecoat/clearcoat system then here are some pointers;
1) Put down a colored primer that is close to the basecoat.
2) Put enough basecoat to evenly coat the object, no more, no less.
3) Put an agressive coat of clear on soon after so it will bite into the basecoat and adhere. Don't sag it man!
4) Put a secondary coat on within 30 minutes of the primary coat. This is your sanding coat.
5) Wet sand the entire finish with 2000
6) Buff but don't burn it too much as you want to keep that glassy gloss knocked down.

That is my $0.02 and for what its worth it got me a junior first and senior on the first 2 shows the bike showed up in. You can see it at http://www.ace-ltd-usa.com

Have a great day!

[AdminGuy]

Good stuff Peter, I can't wait to see the police bike up close, looks great! I've been thinking of how FUN it would be to have my own personal siren. Ahhh... one day.

[giza]

Police bike

You'll only see it on my website or in the Harley-Davidson archive. I sold it to H-D last summer just before the 100th. They had to have it and I had to have the cash. Anyway it is much safer in their house than mine. You can't imagine how delicate that bike was. Anyway thanks and see you at Oley.