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Given the appropriate precautions, sand, bead or other media blasting,
caustic or acid stripping, organic sovent (methyene chloride, etc.,)
stripping and sheer brute force wire wheel or brush and abrasive discs
all work for particular cases.
One method not mentioned is the use of molasses and water solution (1 lb. of molassses to 1 Imp. gallon of warm water). Soaking rusted metal parts for up to several weeks in this solution will convert the red iron oxide to black
iron oxide which can then be brushed away. Paint which is still on the part will not be removed. (Parts should be degreased first before putting them in the molasses/ water mixture) This works well on rusty tools, springs, gears and other machined parts where acid or caustic
treatment might affect the steel strength and blasting or abrasive
methods alter the dimensions of a part.
I check the progress of de-rusting every few days, brushing off the part
and checking it. When a part is clean, it should be removed, washed well
with clean water and dried.
Once removed and washed with clean water, the now derusted parts must be oiled or painted within minutes as the re-rusting process starts almost
immediately.
The solution can be made up in large quantity for things like frames and
tanks. I use a large plastic garbage can with a tight fitting lid as
eventually the molasses/water solution wants to ferment in hot weather.
Disposal would be safe in any sewage system as it is only a sugar/water
solution.
Allan Johnson c.1998
Thanks Allan - I just dug this up and reposted it here. I remembered reading it a few years back. An oldie but a goodie. Thought it may be helpful to a few folks. Esp. those with light sheet metal, or original paint.
caustic or acid stripping, organic sovent (methyene chloride, etc.,)
stripping and sheer brute force wire wheel or brush and abrasive discs
all work for particular cases.
One method not mentioned is the use of molasses and water solution (1 lb. of molassses to 1 Imp. gallon of warm water). Soaking rusted metal parts for up to several weeks in this solution will convert the red iron oxide to black
iron oxide which can then be brushed away. Paint which is still on the part will not be removed. (Parts should be degreased first before putting them in the molasses/ water mixture) This works well on rusty tools, springs, gears and other machined parts where acid or caustic
treatment might affect the steel strength and blasting or abrasive
methods alter the dimensions of a part.
I check the progress of de-rusting every few days, brushing off the part
and checking it. When a part is clean, it should be removed, washed well
with clean water and dried.
Once removed and washed with clean water, the now derusted parts must be oiled or painted within minutes as the re-rusting process starts almost
immediately.
The solution can be made up in large quantity for things like frames and
tanks. I use a large plastic garbage can with a tight fitting lid as
eventually the molasses/water solution wants to ferment in hot weather.
Disposal would be safe in any sewage system as it is only a sugar/water
solution.
Allan Johnson c.1998
Thanks Allan - I just dug this up and reposted it here. I remembered reading it a few years back. An oldie but a goodie. Thought it may be helpful to a few folks. Esp. those with light sheet metal, or original paint.
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