Fuel Proof Black?

[Paquette]

Cotten--Do not bother with this product. I just put a bit of Shell 87 oct. on a piece of metal that I had painted about 2 weeks ago, sat in the "baking oven" that is part of my upstairs shop and it removed the paint faster than lacquer thinner. I am trying to learn just to post about things I know about, which is very little--Sorry--Michael--6671

[T. Cotten]

Michael!

Do not be sorry!

This thread is all about exploring alternatives and testing them.

You have helped us all with your observation.

I thank you again!

....Cotten

[bmh]

Thanks for the warning on the pot metal carbs, I will not need to learn that the hard way now. And yes shipping on hazmat stuff is out of hand. I forgot about that. When I buy parkerizing solution it's a gallon at a time which lasts me a good while. Last time I ordered the shipping was actually more than the product

And if I may, I'm curious. Why peices of etched glass and not small squares of brass or copper?

[T. Cotten]

And if I may, I'm curious. Why peices of etched glass and not small squares of brass or copper?

Brian!

Of course 'you may'!
This is all about questions and information.

I chose glass because it is inert, compared to metals.
I am studying the effect of my local gas upon paints, sealers, and adhesives, and the effect upon metals would add a variable. (Note the brass in my attachment).

Etched steel will have to be used for my comparison of Seal-Lock and JB-Weld this year, however, as Seal-Lock depends entirely upon a molecular bond.

....Cotten

[bmh]

Etched steel will have to be used for my comparison of Seal-Lock and JB-Weld this year, however, as Seal-Lock depends entirely upon a molecular bond.

....Cotten

That's why I was wondering about the glass for some of the other things. Been using an epoxy primer that is supposed to have some molecular bonding properties. But I see you are on top of it. I will wait to hear your results.

[Mr. Big]

Mr. Big!

Sorry for this late reply,
but it seems like your post just now appeared out of no where....

Schebler's later potmetal models were an admirable gloss that survives the decades, and quite resistant to modern fuels as well.
Linkert bodies were less glossy, but that is a subjective observation clouded by the fact that they were a rough bronze casting, and most often it did not survive.

I would settle for any gloss black that is as fuel-resistant as VHT, but more resistant to fingernails. And convenient to apply. And readily available to all for touch-ups.

That's asking a lot,


...Cotten
AMCA #776

Hey thanks, Cotten. Is there a particular VHT product you use? I saw quite a few on their website. And what do you use for bowls?

[T. Cotten]

Hey thanks, Cotten. Is there a particular VHT product you use? I saw quite a few on their website. And what do you use for bowls?

Mr. Big!

I use their gloss black epoxy, as sold through most motorcycle distributors. On their site I see it as SP650.

And I use the same on Schebler bowls as their bodys; Linkert bowls were bare aluminum castings of course.

....Cotten

[PRG]

Howdy Sir,

Glasurit's polyurethane finishes (21 and 22 line) are incredibly durable when exposed to raw fuel and heat. Painted the carbs with straight color, no primer, on the machine in my sig in 1999 with their base silver and constant exposure to fuel has barely discolored them only around where leakage is constant at the non gasketed threaded tops.

Previous attempts with other paints on Linkerts had not been satisfactory with the paint lifting/bubbling starting at the vent hole over the bowl. Mixed up a bottle cap of Glasurit black with reduced gloss hardner (50% reduction) and no reducer, shot it on the bare body and that took care of that. If you want extra insurance for durability, after initial flash off on the drying process, place in an oven for about 45 minutes at 180 or so.

[Mr. Big]

Mr. Big!

I use their gloss black epoxy, as sold through most motorcycle distributors. On their site I see it as SP650.

And I use the same on Schebler bowls as their bodys; Linkert bowls were bare aluminum castings of course.

....Cotten

Oops, maybe I forked up. One of my bowls was kinda beat up lookin so I figured I'd take it on a trip through my blast cabinet and now it's dark grey instead of silver. Is there a way to get the correct appearance back? Or have I screwed the pooch?

[Chris Haynes]

Oops, maybe I forked up. One of my bowls was kinda beat up lookin so I figured I'd take it on a trip through my blast cabinet and now it's dark grey instead of silver. Is there a way to get the correct appearance back? Or have I screwed the pooch?

Blast again with glass bead.

[Mr. Big]

Blast again with glass bead.

Tanks Chris. Yeah, I just got the cabinet used from a guy on CL and just fired it up with what was already sittin in it. Damn rookies!!! Glass bead it is.

[T. Cotten]

Mr. Big!
If a bowl is knarly, and authenticity isn't appreciated,
Then the hammermarks and blemishes should be sanded off, before blasting with steel shot.
This will produce a "restored" appearance, but but all history will be lost. (Pic attached is a before-and-after of the same bowl.)

And Peter!
"Glasurit" sounds great if my clientele would accept $75 a carb for a paint job.
Did I mention that an Illinois State Police Inspector told me he would "walk me up the street to the jail" if he "ever caught me with a spray gun"?

No joke. If I invest into an EPA-approved booth, it would be $150 a carb just to break even in a couple of years, and that's being optimistic.

....Cotten

[exeric]

Tom, the Schebler on my Chief is painted with gloss black Imron and it's still hanging in there after 10+ years. It now has that perfect dull look that it didn't have when freshly painted. The guppy bowl is painted with Centari with hardner and it's peeling in some areas. I usually put Florida BP regular in it.

The bad thing about Imron, (in addition to the price) is; poor shelf life for the catalyst, miserable to mix, and it damages the nervous system. Other than those piddling details, it's great.

I just took the Schebler off my Chief and Imron does NOT hold up to Florida BP.

[PRG]

Howdy Cotten,

Those fed’s hide’n out in the bushes with an ear cocked for the sound of your spray gun? Throw em a curve and brush paint it instead. That’s what I do with every plate I make like this one, among other items. Between the natural surface tension of fluids and heat, these come out of the oven looking like they were sprayed. One thing I didn’t mention about Glasurit is they offer “high solids” paints which have much better opacity like that once found on old machine tools and Steel Case cabinets and severely lacking in modern paints that are so translucent your encouraged to color tint your primer.

Which on the subject of hobby painting as it comes up often in feed back at my site and as it relates to pollutants, etc.., I shoot all my machines like this latest one, the 441, with just a gravity feed touch up gun with color coats applied at 25-28psi. Between that, a wet garage floor and two box fans drawing through squares made out of taped together furnace filters, my (close proximity) neighbors never smell a thing.

[T. Cotten]

Howdy Cotten,

Those fed’s hide’n out in the bushes with an ear cocked for the sound of your spray gun? Throw em a curve and brush paint it instead. That’s what I do with every plate I make like this one, among other items. Between the natural surface tension of fluids and heat, these come out of the oven looking like they were sprayed. One thing I didn’t mention about Glasurit is they offer “high solids” paints which have much better opacity like that once found on old machine tools and Steel Case cabinets and severely lacking in modern paints that are so translucent your encouraged to color tint your primer.

Which on the subject of hobby painting as it comes up often in feed back at my site and as it relates to pollutants, etc.., I shoot all my machines like this latest one, the 441, with just a gravity feed touch up gun with color coats applied at 25-28psi. Between that, a wet garage floor and two box fans drawing through squares made out of taped together furnace filters, my (close proximity) neighbors never smell a thing.

Peter!

To begin with, it is not the "Feds", it is the State that controls my business licensing. And since TV personality Blago's Chicago regime bankrupted the State (the same that has brought you the present White House crew, by the way), the State desk-nazis have become rolling cannons. I wouldn't doubt if they ARE hiding behind bushes, looking for revenue any way they can.

I am not a hobbyist. Liberty is a service company, licensed in Illinois.

I am within restrictions to use an air-brush and other low-volume guns, but the increase in solvent costs (remember clean-up), wasted mix, and tripled labor are options that I severely wish to avoid if at all possible.
And I mentioned that I do use brushes. Please note my very first post to start this thread.

My choice for silver is an isocyanate urethane, and has so far proven P4gas-proof. It requires no mixing, and I most often apply it with a cheap paper towel. So hearing that Florida BP attacks isocyanate urethane Imron is frightening.
My most recent reported failure of an early production of my DURABLE floats was attributed to Florida BP pump fuel.

(Please note that DURABLEs have been produced from yet another generation of the 'Armstrong" material for the last two years, and Liberty will replace free of charge any of my machined floats that swell with one of this latest material. I only request that it be returned to me for my studies and verification. Please don't send me an original cast float, as I will only return it, even if you manage to place it in my packaging!)

Until I have a sample of this nasty Florida BP fuel for testing, I am hesitant to sink cash into Dura-Bake or Glasurit, since testing in my local Shell may mean little worldwide.
It is hazmat of the worst kind, and I never have access to it.

....Cotten