sandpaper

[inrustwetrust]

There has been a sandpaper available for a while that has a "P" before the grit. The P paper is a European grit designation. The P grit is co****r than our normal grit. A piece of P-1000 is close to the 600 we all know.
The P paper is great. I like the Norton Champagne Magnum because is has a very flexible back that makes it easier to sand into corners with.
The P paper also is more clog resistant and lasts far longer than the conventional papers.
Sanding parts on a motorcycle is a long tedious job. Anything that makes it easier is something I want to learn about.
It seems as I get close to the end of a serious paint job, the more I can live with a bike that was brushed with rustoleum. Of course when you brush, always use up and down strokes so you don't get sags. Drips on the motor will burn off in time, especially if you lean it out to the max and let it sit in August traffic.

[Hrdly-Dangrs]

Talking Paint and Bodywork is one of my favorite subjects Inrustwetrust! I've used Norton papers as well as the 3-M Brand Imperial etc. All very good products. You can appreciate a well made super fine grit 1000+ when your 'Wet' sanding the final coat and it glides over the color or clear coat without 'loading' up and creating the very scratches/marks that you are actually wet sanding to eliminate and get that 'glass' smooth surface. Remember to keep it wet and change the water often, and change paper freguently. This is truly not the place to skimp on a couple bucks. Always buy the very best sandpaper, regardless of grit. This holds true on the co****r grit also. Makes for much smoother 'cutting'and quicker material removal (Bondo and skim coat type fillers). I would suggest that the novice painter steer clear of the local Home Depots and Wal-Marts for their supplies and find a local Auto Body Supply House in their area (just look in the phone book) Go there and check out the hundreds of great autobody supplies and paints/thinners on the market. They sell direct to the public (thats you) as well as commercial body shops. You can get lots of manufacturers brochures and 'How-To' booklets mostly for Free (the best kind). The guys behind the counter can usually answer your questons as well as customers who all seem to love B/S'ing about Body/Paint stuff! You'll learn a lot!.....We'll talk some more about Body/Paint.........Hrdly-Dangrs.......Hey in rustwetrust.....watch this; co****r....co****r...co****r...the site is actually blanking out the letters for the British **** term thinking it means 'ASS'.....Ha.ha.

[inrustwetrust]

It is good to see somebody replying. It's amazing how much it costs to paint a bike these days. I use Glasurit paint because it works so nice. The total for the last bike is about $600. That is for the materials only. Sick huh? A can of Rustoleum is about $14 and a good brush is about $20. Another little thing that can drive you nuts is bondo. That stuff has a shelf life of about only four or five months. I hate wasting stuff, but it's best to throw out that three quarters full can after a couple of months and spend the money on a new can. It spreads better and most importantly, it hardens and sands a thousand times better. I noticed that co**** is censored also. Oh well, we'll just have to ******* try to write in some ******** fashion that will work within the ******** guidelines the *********** program lets us.

[Hrdly-Dangrs]

Speaking of bondo, have you ever used 'Alumina' (I think that's what it is called). It's a brand of bondo that is 'impregnated', (my wife just ran out the room) with real aluminum metal flakes. Goes on and sands like your regular type fillers but leaves the patch close to a real metal repair. When I had my paint shop years ago, I would use it on any tank/fenders that called for 'Kandy' colors or 'Pearls'. Man I used to get some beat up stuff through my shop! I worked in fiberglass also and that has its own types of fillers to learn. Course nothing beats real old fashion 'Leading'. It's a whole Art unto its self. Learning to use the Torch and paddles and lead solder is "Fantastic". Problem was most guys could barely afford a basic paint job back then! Hey Rust, I used to do a Tank, Front and Rear Fenders and Side Covers (Jap - Brits) or Oil Tank (H-D's mostly) in any 1 solid color and clear top coat (we're talking about 15 Coats overall, and hand sanded/rubbed Lacquer for $250.00 to $300.00, (if it required minor body work)!! Kandy was only $100.00 more and throw in another $50.00 for 2 Color Panel or Flames!! Wow, no wonder I went broke!! Ha! Ha!... I loved painting bikes! I handled that Binks #7 like a new girlfriend! My wife barely ever seen me in those days...except when I was trying to 'impregnate' her'.....Silly Girl, always complained about fingerprints on her body....Honey...come here I want to show you something.....now where did that little lassie go?..... ...Horny-Dangrs