Is it possible?

[Magic]

Okay here is a good one, Can a painted over original paint bike be wet sanded with 600 grit paper and possibly get the paint underneath saved? Does anybody know of people that tried? Thanks, Merlin

[Hrdly-Dangrs]

Easier Said then Done

At first thought, it would seem plausible that you could remove the top layers of paint and color, after all, they were likely sprayed on in a series of individual coats. But that is where plausible ends and 'Real World' begins. Yes of course you can remove the outer layers of paint but to do so would probably not give you the results you are hoping for or would 'imagine'. As a painter of many years experience in both Lacquer and Enamels and their various additives, I would recommend you strip the paint completely and refinish to original specs. The reasons are several: 1). In all likelyhood the original paint was already so far gone that it was deemed better to repaint it by the last owner. 2). If the last painter did his homework and followed good painting proceedures, he would have definitely sanded the original paint work well and prepped the surface. This stage alone may have already removed any good base paint to begin with. (Also likely he used some 'bondo' and light scimming pastes to get the sheetmetal to a stage where he could apply a good finish overall. 3). The mechanical action of sanding with a rough grit sandpaper (likely used during the initial repair/prep procedure) to get the new paint to stick, will have left micro-scopic scratches in the original paint that the new finish, once applied, would have bonded into and the result would be that you will likely run out of paint layer (hit bare metal) before you could descern the original color coat alone without the shading or tone (bleeding) of the top coat (also primer coat if he used one) blended in. 4). Also, compound this with the fact that you are trying to do this on both flat and round, pointed surfaces! And lastly, if the current top coat is a two-stage type catalyst paint, (Very, Very hard surface), you really have some sanding to do! Now, if your really bound and determined to try this, then beware the 600 grit paper, Use this grit very carefully to 'knock' down the very top layer and then go to a 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper. Keep it and the surfaces you are working on wet. Sand carefully in a small spot using straight and circular strokes, stopping and checking your progress frequently. Once you see the original color start to show, STOP!, and then go onto another spot. Continue doing this until all the surfaces are the same. A really big task and very, very time consuming! Also, don't be tempted to use any paint removal liquids or thinners to speed up the process. They will most likely remove the good paint you are trying to keep as well the bad top coat paint. Use a paint 'prep-sol' or Pre-Cleano type cleaners designed for removing oil/grease from enamel and lacquer surfaces before painting. Use the professional type like R&M or Ditzler available over the counter at any automotive painting supply houses and not the types you see in regular Auto supply stores (TOO STRONG). Of course the final finish will be to compound the paint surfaces by hand to bring out the shine and finish with a good quality paste wax (Not silicone). Its not impossible, but likely your results after spending many, many hours of labor will not be what your minds eye is seeing. Well, thats my thoughts on this, but hopefully others may chime in and have some other solution for you to try. Good Luck!....... ...Hrdly-Dangrs

[AdminGuy]

Many members have gone back down. If your lucky, it was not preped and person used a brush to slap a coat on. I also would like to hear of others experiences. OR ageing techniques for that odd additional part that was missing.

[Magic]

The last resort is mine

Thank you for the reply, From what I'm seeing and know the M/C was 1 owner and the paint over was done early in its time. The son of the owner told me the M/C was always Red, and they used a red but around the rear taillight and fender braces the paint peeled from not sticking and revealed Flamboyant metallic green used on 56HDs. The normal wear spots on the fuel tanks show a thin coat of red and green base coming through, along with a nick or two on fenders. I believe the paint over was without a base coat by evidence of the flaking paint. The paint under the flakes has a shine to it. It may of been a rush paint over early on because of the Green may of been special order but not liked. I am unsure of body work but the rest of the M/C is flawless at this time, no evidence of damage or history of given. I will try the wet sanding "NEXT WINTER" and be very carefull at edges and curves. This would be tedious work with alot of time involved with an unsure result. IF we have another winter like this one at least I'll be busy with a good project! I don't at this time feel I want to restore this M/C. It's a thought to try, and Its worst outcome would be repaint, and I'd use that unlucky color of Flamboyant Green again. I'm ready to Ride, Merlin

[inrustwetrust]

The Smithsonian used this technique to uncover the paint scemes on a WWII German fighter that was used in many theaters (wet sanding). To me it sounds very boring, but then again with that bunch it's just another day! The first thing I always try is washing the paint down so it is totally immaculate. Rub on fiberglass reinforced tape and pull it off. The reason I use fiberglass tape is because it is the stickiest tape I know of. You can play with getting it warm also. Warm, like no more than 140 degrees. If you feel the need to scrape at it, use bondo spreaders. Cut them to suit your needs. If you try solvents, you'll probably wreck it. Take your time and play with it. Save the obvious parts till last so you can make your mistakes where it doesn't show much. Remember, 600 grit is a very co**** media, when you get close, switch to the finest grit you can stand using. Good luck!!!

[Hrdly-Dangrs]

Magic. Peeling paint is definitely an indication that the prep work was rushed and the painter did not prep it well. This could be in your favor. Might get lucky there with using the tape to 'pop' off the loose paint, although I've never tried that one myself. But very worn areas of the top paint as described will definitely require very careful wet sanding. I guess its worth a try, but if your looking to expose the original paint in hopes of retaining the 'Patina', forget it. Most likely you'll end up with a patch work of original paint with no 'patina' (having lost that to all the steps it takes to get down to the original paint. Well, "nothing ventured, nothing gained" as they say.....Hrdly-Dangrs