Post parkerizing, it would be best to treat the parts that aren't going to be painted with a preservative oil specificately formulated for rust prevention.
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Parkerizing my parts on the 1960 FLHF build
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I have seen various types of gun oil recommended. Also products like Boeshield T-9 and Tectyl 802A. The possibilities are endless.Originally posted by sw48 View PostPost parkerizing, it would be best to treat the parts that aren't going to be painted with a preservative oil specificately formulated for rust prevention.
Edit: Ok, so you got me thinking and I came up with an informative article on the net.
https://artizono.com/the-complete-gu...-applications/Last edited by Saddletramp; Yesterday, 10:28 AM.
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The only thing you may want to avoid are oils with heavy distillate waxes. Basically, if the bottle says anything more than oil on it, think twice. Those types of oils work well on firearms but tend to create a white crystal surface on many home parkerized hardware items, especially cp bolts (in my experience). I didn’t run into that problem on pedals, but I did on brake levers.
ymmv
thanks for creating this thread. It’s fun to share adventures in home parkerizing.
My first home baths were made by dissolving the innards of dry cell batteries in phosphoric acid. Near total guess work and worked surprisingly well.
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That's good information. I will definitely keep that in mind going forward. Thanks for the input.Originally posted by chuckthebeatertruck View PostThe only thing you may want to avoid are oils with heavy distillate waxes. Basically, if the bottle says anything more than oil on it, think twice. Those types of oils work well on firearms but tend to create a white crystal surface on many home parkerized hardware items, especially cp bolts (in my experience).
I read a lot about the different methods from home brew to more commercial operations as well as some of the history of the process since it's creation but I don't believe I've ran across the dry cell/phosphoric acid approach yet. Very cool.
For now, as I have already committed two quarts of 60W oil to the process, my next batch will be with that as well with perhaps a heated oil bath. The park really soaks up the oil, which is obviously what we want. So heated or thinner oil may speed up that step somewhat.
We'll see in a couple of weeks when the weather here on the front range of the Rockies is supposed to get back up in the 50's. My Electric heated double boil type tank setup needs that to get up to acceptable temperature for treatment. There's a fine line line between 185 degrees which I don't want to exceed and the boiling temp here at my elevation so I have to watch it carefully.
James
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Hey James, rather than use a motor oil which has the main purpose of lubricating moving parts I would invest in a can of oil specifically formulated for corrosion protection. Back in the late '90's I parkerized some parts using product sold by Harbor Vintage. This was followed by immersing the parts in a bath of preservative oil conforming to a military specification MIL-L-3150 which is commercially available. Pictured are a brake pedal and rod I treated at that time.
IMG_3761 1.JPG
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Wow, that lever and rod look good. Obviously holding up well. Do you recall what the oil was?Originally posted by sw48 View PostHey James, rather than use a motor oil which has the main purpose of lubricating moving parts I would invest in a can of oil specifically formulated for corrosion protection. Back in the late '90's I parkerized some parts using product sold by Harbor Vintage. This was followed by immersing the parts in a bath of preservative oil conforming to a military specification MIL-L-3150 which is commercially available. Pictured are a brake pedal and rod I treated at that time.
IMG_3761 1.JPG
I looked at several products since your last post and most of them had paraffin/waxes and some claim to produce an amber hue when done. Don't want that.
Chuck said in his post that he had issues with heavily waxed oils and most of the mil-spec products I've seen are gun oils, but I have seen a couple of mostly straight oil products.
I'd like to look into what you used if it is still available. If you think of it, let me know.
Thanks.
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