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How was the factory paint finish on sheet metal (tanks, fenders) on late 50s H-Ds

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  • How was the factory paint finish on sheet metal (tanks, fenders) on late 50s H-Ds

    What was the factory paint finish for late 50s Harleys, or vintage Harley-Davidsons in general on sheet metal (tanks, fenders)? As far as I know, no top coat (clear varnish) was used in the past. What was the apperiance in general, matte or shiny. I read somewhere that a factory polish was offered at the customer's request. If so, what was used to polish a H-D back then? As far as I can tell from photos, many OP H-Ds have a matt base but shiny finish.

    Edit: Or in other words, question to those of you who have worked with the original enamel color as it was used in the past. Is this paint matt when applied and needs to be polished to shine or is it already glossy?
    Last edited by 58Panheadfan; 07-16-2024, 05:49 AM.

  • #2
    In the meantime I have received an answer outside of this forum, for those who are interested and may also confirm this, the enamel color used had no top coat and was semi-gloss in appearance (this would also confirm what I have read, to get a glossy finish this factory polish service was offered). The metallic colors from 1956 onwards had a clear coat.

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    • #3
      From period photos, and well protected, original finish H-D sheet metal that I have examined, I would say H-D had a quality, gloss finish. Not a show finish that requires lots of hand rubbing, and polishing, but a better than average automobile gloss finish. To me, semi-gloss has minimal reflectivity and will barely mirror images near it. In other words, H-D paint work was very much better than semi-gloss. Paint quality, and reflectivity are subjective to individual eyeballs, so my comments are my opinion.

      P.S. I've never heard of a 'factory polish' but I have read that H-D referred 'exceptional treatments' to the dealer where the request came from. Most dealers were in a big enough town, or city to have a local paint, and body shop, or chrome plater do unusual requests. Harley-Davidson paint was baked enamel with no clear coat (to my knowledge). I do know they spent a lot of money to develop high quality production painting and must have used a very high pigment content paint over a 'Bonderized' metal treatment because their paint was very opaque, and very thin. I've painted all of my motorcycles, and I don't have the skill to duplicate a Harley-Davidson paint job. I know there are talented painters that can replicate that, but it's all about preparation, material, application, and talent.
      Last edited by exeric; 07-19-2024, 04:43 PM.
      Eric Smith
      AMCA #886

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      • #4
        I would agree that the factory finish was shiny on the new bikes of the 50s. It didn’t have the wet look of today’s paint but was much more reflective than a semi gloss finish. If you look at the vintage motorcycle of the day photo that was just posted you can see some reflection on the tank. I think it’s #4063 a late 40s bike with a gentleman kneeling beside it. I have been involved with motorcycles for nearly 60 years and don’t recall flat or semi gloss finishes. A course it’s just my opinion of what shiny was then.
        Jim D

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        • #5
          If a 57 chevy or any other car from that era was gloss black, I see no reason to believe HD wouldn't be equal or better.
          AMCA #41287
          1972 Sportster project
          1971 Sprint SS350 project
          1982 FXR - AMCA 98.5 point restoration
          1979 FXS 1200 never done playing
          1998 Dyna Convertible - 100% Original
          96" Evo Softail self built chopper
          2012 103" Road King "per diem"
          plus 13 other bikes over the years...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 58Panheadfan View Post
            What was the factory paint finish for late 50s Harleys, or vintage Harley-Davidsons in general on sheet metal (tanks, fenders)? As far as I know, no top coat (clear varnish) was used in the past. What was the apperiance in general, matte or shiny. I read somewhere that a factory polish was offered at the customer's request. If so, what was used to polish a H-D back then? As far as I can tell from photos, many OP H-Ds have a matt base but shiny finish.

            Edit: Or in other words, question to those of you who have worked with the original enamel color as it was used in the past. Is this paint matt when applied and needs to be polished to shine or is it already glossy?
            I'd like to see where the "factory polish" was offered. I have every order blank from 1930 up with many earlier ones and going through the '60s and nowhere on any of them is a special finish treatment offered to dealers.
            I have also bought many NOS painted parts over the years and all were finished in gloss paint.
            Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 58Panheadfan View Post
              What was the factory paint finish for late 50s Harleys, or vintage Harley-Davidsons in general on sheet metal (tanks, fenders)? As far as I know, no top coat (clear varnish) was used in the past. What was the apperiance in general, matte or shiny. I read somewhere that a factory polish was offered at the customer's request. If so, what was used to polish a H-D back then? As far as I can tell from photos, many OP H-Ds have a matt base but shiny finish.

              Edit: Or in other words, question to those of you who have worked with the original enamel color as it was used in the past. Is this paint matt when applied and needs to be polished to shine or is it already glossy?
              Just my opinion here but from what I've seen, H-D sheet metal of the late 50 was a high gloss enamel finish. As good as any American manufacturer applied at the time. It was NOT as shiny as the modern basecoat/clearcoats of today. And it was relatively thin. In areas (like the taillamp housing) where there are letters/numbers stamped in the metal, the characters are still crisp and sharp on OP bikes. I see a lot of modern basecoat/clearcoat repaints that are applied heavily enough to soften the edges of those stamped letters etc. Just one more thing to consider if you're hoping to duplicate the look of original paint.

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              • #8
                Examining the -55 and -68 tail lamp housing is the best way to rate a "restored bike's" paint job. Most will have paint and primer that is too thick, which "buries" the markings on the tail lamp body.
                vph-d

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