2000 Deg. F.

[Old Ugly 40]

Has anyone else used this paint? 20230318_140755(1).jpg

[Old Ugly 40]

This paint requires that it be baked at 250 deg. F. for 30 min., let cool for 30 min.
Bake again at 399 deg. F. for 30 min., cool for 30 min.
Bake again at 599 deg. F. for 30 min., let cool, done.
I painted my exhaust pipes with this paint but my oven would only go to 400 deg. F. so for the third step I heated to 400 deg. F. for about 2 hrs. Seemed to work ok but I haven't run the bike yet. I had to tap the front pipe into the head with a rubber hammer, this didn't skuff the paint at all. Seems pretty tough.
The instructions also say if used on car headers you can put them on when dry and do the heat cycles with the engine.
My question is: Would one want to heat a cast iron head or cylinder to 599 deg. F.?
Thank you for your interest.
Rod

[RichO]

I've used it alot on bike exhausts. Sometimes I cure it with a heat gun to start with then a oxy-acetylene torch (rosebud at proper distance) to cure it. Whatever works for a good heat source. Times and temps are subjective.

[Steve Swan]

i've had good experience with POR-15 HT exhaust paint, really holds up well, i suppose it's a little spendier than some of the others but it seems to hold up well to temps and oils... https://por15.com/products/high-temp

[Old Ugly 40]

RichO, Thak you for your input.
I now have an oven that I think will get up to about 600 deg. F., but still wonder if one would want to get cast iron heads or cylinders that hot.
Thanks again.
Rod

[Old Ugly 40]

Steve, thank you for the info.
POR-15 definatly has good products. I did not know they made heat risistant paint. I believe I paid $14.95 Can. for the Rust-Oleum. Easy to spray, covers well, but a bit of a pain to cure.
Thanks again.
Rod

[T. Cotten]

Wasn't the Restomotive Heat Paint called POR-20, Steve?

I still have some in a can and it was phenomenal.

POR-15 was their tank sealer, and my luck wasn't so good with that.

....Cotten

[gitguy]

https://por15.com/products/high-temp

Screenshot 2023-03-22 073942.jpg

[T. Cotten]

It looks like they re-branded everything to 15, Gitguy!

The heatpaint was 20 when I bought it.

And a Bernsomatic wouldn't touch it.

I'm not sure I would trust anything with 15 on it. Good luck!

....Cotten

[Steve Swan]

Wasn't the Restomotive Heat Paint called POR-20, Steve?

I still have some in a can and it was phenomenal.

POR-15 was their tank sealer, and my luck wasn't so good with that.

....Cotten

Tom, i wouldn't know about the Restomotive... i have used POR-15 on several tanks with good outcomes. I experimented using Caswell's around 15 years ago on one tank with good outcome (i still have that bike). Lots of Kreem and over the past couple years RedKote. This makes me sound like i use tank sealer on every tank i get my hands on which is not the case. i deplore the use of tank sealer, however the one shop i worked in, lots of Japanese bikes that died from neglect came in with rusty tanks; Kreem was the sealer we used on scores of tanks, all with good outcomes. i can't underscore preparation is 99% requirement for success - for any liner. Liner companies waay too far oversimplify their instructions for the prep process which in my experience is a process that can take days and even weeks, depending on the severity of the rust and the particular rust removal approach i use. And, i have learned that certain liners work better on certain conditions affecting certain tanks than other. Kreem and RedKote by far are the easiest to use and most forgiving in terms of application, both responding to variations intheir applications to differing ambient temps and also being able to add a small quantity of MEK to decrease viscosity for better flow when rotating tank to obtain equal layer throughout tank and avoid thick areas. And with these 2 liner products, because of their "adjustable viscosity," these work exceptionally well with any tank with pinholes. POR-15 is very fluid, low viscosity, has a nice silver finish. Caswell's is clear, super sensitive to different ambient temps; in my limited experience i do not know what can be used as a thinner to "adjust" viscosity. And i also know Caswell's is a mutha-fukka to remove, but over a period of weeks will come out with repeated soakings/rinsings using MEK. For my own personal practice, dealing with rust in tanks, i always, wherever possible, in the variety of rust removal approaches i have used, to my best to wind up with a nice inside-the-tank clean bare metal surface. In my experience, prep can take days and even weeks, depending on the condition of tank's interior; the last few "moments" of tank prep are crucial, primarily what is done to prevent flash rust after neutralizing the interior of tank's surface (when an acid was used) with a base, i.e., baking soda rinse. this was a hell of a lot more commentary than i planned, but in my experience, any tank liner product gets a bad rap because prep was insufficient. And liner companies say their product can be use to cover rust which it most certainly can, but if a permanent positive outcome is desired, the claim of coating over rust is pure b.s. Of the different liners i've use, imho, RedKote is a winner, seems to be slightly different than Kreem, but how or why, i have no idea.

[T. Cotten]

It looks like there was a split between Restomotive and POR products over the last couple of decades,.. Folks,

I'm way behind on these things, even when I still have them in the cabinet, sorry.

At any rate, back to subject, the POR heat paint was great; (I lost bigly on the POR-15 sealer).

....Cotten

[jug]

I am looking to paint over chrome pipes but have no way to cure like guys have listed here. Like to go with a flat black. How to rough up the chrome first? Just want make it simple and long lasting of that is possible. Spray on on brush? thanks

[T. Cotten]

I am looking to paint over chrome pipes but have no way to cure like guys have listed here. Like to go with a flat black. How to rough up the chrome first? Just want make it simple and long lasting of that is possible. Spray on on brush? thanks

The simplest way to rough-up chrome is blasting, Jug!

Takes a pretty big cabinet, unless you can shoot 'play sand' outside.

....Cotten

[ChiefTwoKicks]

most chrome shops can remove the plating (chrome/copper) leaving you with bare metal. Then paint with your choice of quality High Heat paint. I prefer VHP brand, I'm sure that Rustoleum will be fine as well as others already mentioned above. Nearly all of them recommend high heat cycle "tempering" of the paint. Thats pretty important for long lasting results.
Paint is subject to scratching, so is powder coating and ceramic coatings as well. I've tried them all. I use VHP high heat header paint. I like the flat black... and i can repaint them if they get scratched or blemished. I don't like the idea of blasting, seems to me to leave too rough a surface unless you use a lesser abrasive blast media, maybe walnut shells. C2K