Chrome stripping

[rms337]

On my Four, there were a ton of parts that were chromed at one point and it all is looking pretty rough. I want to get the chrome redone on some parts, and stripped off many of the parts and just go back to paint on some and CAD on others. I believe there is a layer of copper under the chrome, correct? Is it even possible to take these parts back to a CAD plating? Or maybe just better off re-chroming it all or replacing? Has anyone done this before?

[PRG]

Howdy sir,

And nickel. I would have all parts stripped first and then decide. To reduce expensive high copper plate builds to buff back, some platers will belt sand rougher parts like castings before laying on copper, their original appearance will be compromised or ruined, subsequent cad plating will take on the appearance of electrolis nickel. Being a Four and assuming original parts chromed back in the 60-70’s when “restoration” meant something different than now I’d make every effort to save them even if it meant subsequent sand blasting to steel castings to restore a semblance of the original surface texture.

[PaulCDF]

Rms
Take a look at recent posts in "Vendor, Services and Supplier Information" its a place to start.

[HDSmitty]

Isn't it possible for a plater person to "reverse" the plating process thereby taking the plated item back to pre plating condition? Hope this helps.....Smitty

[T. Cotten]

Every piece is different, Folks,...

Often I removed chrome from small hardware by blasting with steel shot. When lucky, the hammering effect would peel off the copper too.

And it restores some texture before a clean-up blast in the ALOX cabinet.

Unfortunately, it still took more time than I could charge for.

....Cotten

[PRG]

Howdy Smitty,

Yes, and the preferred and expeditious method to reveal exactly what you have underneath without any further alteration before analysis, thus the comment about base metal belt sanding pre-copper plate when the piece initially worked. The obvious on a weathered old item post OEM, chrome flaking off, but you have no idea of the surface below. For example, my 348 was exported new to a wealthy ex-pat American industrialist in the Philippines, he was dissatisfied with the paint finish, had his employees remove, strip all sheet metal and place in their copper tanks for a long soak, then buff and repaint to his satisfaction.

45 years or so later when I bought this disassembled machine the sheet metal emerged from the attic in primer and weighing a ton but incredibly smooth. Stripping revealed copper polished like the dome of the Taj Mahal, my plater never charged me a dime on plating jobs again just to have the copper, now very expensive, but not so in 1948. They never bothered to even smooth the spotwelds or slight waving in the metal in either side of these joins, just layer more copper on. Thus the comments about possible sanded brake clevises, fork rockers and axle slipper castings prior to plating done in the more modern era.

[T. Cotten]

Howdy Smitty,

Yes, and the preferred and expeditious method to reveal exactly what you have underneath without any further alteration before analysis, thus the comment about base metal belt sanding pre-copper plate when the piece initially worked. The obvious on a weathered old item post OEM, chrome flaking off, but you have no idea of the surface below. For example, my 348 was exported new to a wealthy ex-pat American industrialist in the Philippines, he was dissatisfied with the paint finish, had his employees remove, strip all sheet metal and place in their copper tanks for a long soak, then buff and repaint to his satisfaction.

45 years or so later when I bought this disassembled machine the sheet metal emerged from the attic in primer and weighing a ton but incredibly smooth. Stripping revealed copper polished like the dome of the Taj Mahal, my plater never charged me a dime on plating jobs again just to have the copper, now very expensive, but not so in 1948. They never bothered to even smooth the spotwelds or slight waving in the metal in either side of these joins, just layer more copper on. Thus the comments about possible sanded brake clevises, fork rockers and axle slipper castings prior to plating done in the more modern era.

Gosh Peter,...

Your plater reclaimed the copper from the sheet metal with no ill effect?

That had to take chemicals (and disposal), tank time, labor, and electricity.

Even today copper only brings about three and a half bucks a pound. I bet it did weigh a ton.

.....Cotten

[exeric]

I can tell you from exasperating, pointless experiments that chrome is easy to remove, but it's the nickel that is impossible to get through without mechanical abrasion, or (preferred) professional plater removal. Chrome will come right off with muratic (swimming pool) acid, but nickel, and then copper removal is beyond home brew technology. My advice is to pay a professional plater to do the job properly, albeit expensive and get back to base metal that you can work with.

[T. Cotten]

I can tell you from exasperating, pointless experiments that chrome is easy to remove, but it's the nickel that is impossible to get through without mechanical abrasion, or (preferred) professional plater removal. Chrome will come right off with muratic (swimming pool) acid, but nickel, and then copper removal is beyond home brew technology. My advice is to pay a professional plater to do the job properly, albeit expensive and get back to base metal that you can work with.

I've always got HCl on hand, Eric!

But my experience is that it eats the base metal first.

....Cotten
PS: On a carburetor or manifold, or other small hardware,.. if there is surviving nickel, I agree it is not worth the trouble and effort of removing it.

It is better conserved.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear All, I had a lot of 1970s chrome on my 1929 Henderson and had it professionally stripped by my plater. We were then able to blast the one-year wheel rims and paint them cream as original. For the rest of the parts, for instance forks, much of the small detail and casting marks had been removed by polishing 50 years ago. These parts were then bright nickeled so at least the finish was period correct even if it probably did not leave the factory this way.

[swall]

Purchase the plating manual from Caswell (maker of the copy cad kit) and read it over the winter. The manual will give you a good idea of what is possible with a home shop plating operation and what operations should be farmed out to a professional plating shop.