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Paint Methods for Indian Motorcycle Parts 1949-1953

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  • Paint Methods for Indian Motorcycle Parts 1949-1953

    I would like to know if anyone can tell me if it is okay to apply additional coats of paint after letting paint cure for a week?
    I used rattle cans to paint a set of Indian vertical tool boxes and have two coats of flat black primer and two light coats of high gloss black paint on them. I did not have any JP 1 Fast Black as planned, so I used Rustoleum primer and paint as many people say--match the brand of primer and paint to prevent future flaking. I don't know if that's true.
    If I wait a week or more to add a couple more coats, will the paint still be just as effective.

    thanks.
    -JR
    36450

  • #2
    I primarily use Rustoleum paint products. I believe they recommend to re-apply additional coats with-in 1 hour or after 48 hours. I have never had any problems with re-coating
    days or weeks later.

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    • #3
      I would give it a good scuff with a Scotch Brite pad and you should be good to go.

      Dale

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      • #4
        Originally posted by painterdale View Post
        I would give it a good scuff with a Scotch Brite pad and you should be good to go.

        Dale
        This is what I was going to say
        AMCA #41287
        1971 Sprint SS350 project
        1982 FXR - AMCA 98.5 point restoration
        1979 FXS 1200 never done playing
        1998 Dyna Convertible - 100% Original
        96" Evo Softail self built chopper
        2012 103" Road King "per diem"
        plus 13 other bikes over the years...

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        • #5
          Thank you all for your suggestions. I will take your advice, wait, re-apply and then use the Scotch Brite pad. Is this pad what makes the metal appear smooth as glass?
          I was kind of frustrated when I tried to paint my own Scout fenders. The finish is not as good as my pre-restored gas tank or oil tank. I even used spray lacquer in the suggested two coats, though I did not follow up with any additional work. Now I will try this and see what happens.

          Thanks again.
          -JR

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          • #6
            Hi, JR!
            The Scotch Brite pad is going to slightly rough up the surface to provide a mechanical bond for the paint to stick. To be clear, Scotch Brite, then apply paint. After the first coats of paint sit for a week, the surface "closes up" and you lose the potential for a chemical bond so you need to provide a "tooth" or mechanical bond for the paint to stick. It's also a good time to catch any imperfections in the first coats by light sanding with 500 or 600 grit paper. The following coats should go on nice and smooth. Hope this helps a little.

            Dale

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            • #7
              Chuckthebeatertruck has lots of great paint tips in his thread, "Let's build a girl's bike: a !967 Sportster XLH".

              Dale

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              • #8
                Thanks Dale. I'll check that out.
                -JR

                Comment


                • #10
                  Howdy Dale,

                  Wouldn’t you say with the lack of solids in aerosols and corresponding thin film thickness that one might be better off, if desired, wet sanding very carefully with 800-1500 between final top coats to avoid cut-through, especially on edges. In contrast to decades of shooting gravity feed high solids decided to paint all 60 plus pieces of my Black Shadow below with Lowe’s sourced aerosols, experimenting with heat and various applications along the way, man was that an education, both then and now long term....have gone back to conventional gun applications since.

                  https://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...adow/i-pLWhPHk


                  Cheerio,
                  Peter
                  #6510
                  1950 Vincent - A Red Rapide Experience

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Last Monday I finished painting the standard black items on my '51FL. I don't have a problem with high quality aerosols and think they have become much better over the years. However, you can't beat name brand automotive paint, shot from a good gun. It is expensive, but if this is a lifelong hobby, and one expects to do more bikes in the future, the costs will come down, and the quality will stay high. I just bought a 1 quart can of black, wet look hardener, and the corresponding reducer at a cost of about $80.00. The paint is already quite hard, and will only get more durable as it cures. I painted the inner, and outer primary, oil tank, chain guard, brake drums, seat T, tool box, damper assy., and horn and barely dropped the level in the can of paint. Painting is 95% preparation, and then 5% anxiety when you're actually painting. After that, it's 100% self satisfaction.
                    Eric Smith
                    AMCA #886

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      PRG and exeric,
                      Thank you both for sharing your advice and experience. Paint work has always seemed very sensitive to me. You have to be careful or you will ruin the finish.
                      I had an employee of BD Cycles tell me I should use as many as eleven coats on the frames when restoring Indians. I only used 2 or 3 and then I saw why. With the slightest nudge into another metal part, there was scratching and a slight flaking, often right down through the primer.
                      I have a compressed air system, though have never used it. Maybe I will learn this summer.
                      Kind regards,
                      -JR

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by PRG View Post
                        Howdy Dale,

                        Wouldn’t you say with the lack of solids in aerosols and corresponding thin film thickness that one might be better off, if desired, wet sanding very carefully with 800-1500 between final top coats to avoid cut-through, especially on edges. In contrast to decades of shooting gravity feed high solids decided to paint all 60 plus pieces of my Black Shadow below with Lowe’s sourced aerosols, experimenting with heat and various applications along the way, man was that an education, both then and now long term....have gone back to conventional gun applications since.

                        https://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...adow/i-pLWhPHk

                        You are right, Peter. My mistake. I wasn't even thinking aerosol, probably because I have ZERO talent with spray cans!
                        I read about your process painting the Vincent a couple years ago. I was fascinated. Very impressive results!

                        Dale

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Originally posted by JTR249 View Post
                          PRG and exeric,
                          Thank you both for sharing your advice and experience. Paint work has always seemed very sensitive to me. You have to be careful or you will ruin the finish.
                          I had an employee of BD Cycles tell me I should use as many as eleven coats on the frames when restoring Indians. I only used 2 or 3 and then I saw why. With the slightest nudge into another metal part, there was scratching and a slight flaking, often right down through the primer.
                          I have a compressed air system, though have never used it. Maybe I will learn this summer.
                          Kind regards,
                          -JR
                          Go for it, JR! The worst that could happen is you have to sand it down and start over. Like Eric said, the self satisfaction is definitely worth the effort!

                          Dale

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            JR, buy a Harbor Freight jamb gun for $35.00, and give it a try. Overall, you may be into it for $150 to start, but you will adapt to the task, and develop your skills, and technique. There are many good paint tutorials on Youtube, and painting really is kind of fun. Don't forget to use a respirator !
                            Eric Smith
                            AMCA #886

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