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First thing, I'm building a '49 Pan from a few boxes of junk (to the layman anyway). This is my first serious encounter with cadium plated parts. As you all know, it isn't chrome and it isn't paint, kind of in between. My question is what is the best way to clean these parts? I have my rims together and the spokes are cadium plated and it hit me right away, what is going to happen when these get coated with oil from the chain oiler? I guess while we are here, is there anything special to know about cleaning the parkerized parts? Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Cad & Park
Well this depends if you want to just clean OR.... strip and refinish (restore) if your just going to clean then brake cleaner or an automotive parts washer will do the job. If you are going to strip, first the parts washer, then I use a good fast drying brake cleaner to get rid of the parts washers oily residue. compessed air then into the glass bead cabinet NOT sand! that will get rid of the rest. some cad may still linger. This is removed by a diluted muratic acid bath immediately prior to parkerizing. this is a very specific job and I won't get into detail as it is lengthy and can be dangerous. (cadmium and muratic acid creates a byproduct of cyanide (sp?) gas!!! ) you can contact me on my site and I can talk you through it. www.fatdogvintagesalvage.com/ FatDog -
Most of my parts that are to be cad or park are being done by the "pros". I was mainly looking for general cleaning advice, so as not to damage the finish. Thanks for the response.Comment
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Hey - Ajax - can you share who is doing cad work for you? I'd really like to find a good cad shop in Eastern PA - anyone on this board have any recommendations?
RayComment
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Cad plating
I do cad plating to Military spec. I sub let to an aviation propeller house. You can see my results on my products and servies page. Thanks FatDog www.fatdogvintagesalvage.com/products.htmComment
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For the cad, I have had great success with gold cleaner and a soft cloth after degreasing. Cad is very soft and wipes off easily, especially if the plater didn't put much on. Parker can be preserved with a variety of furniture related finishes. Tung oil and linseed oil are my choices. Minwax makes a finish called Antique oil finish. Use the satin sheen. Dilute the first coat with about 20% gum turps. Start to work it with a rag first. If that doesn't do it, use 0000 steel or brass wool carefully. let finish lightly tack. This should take between ten and forty-five minutes depending on wearther conditions. Buff off with a soft rag. If it tacks up too much, put a little finish on the rag. Always buy the smallest container as the shelf life is short. Always keep finish capped and do not return unused portion to container. This finish can be easily removed with many thinners that will not attack paint.Comment
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One more important reminder about using linseed and tung oils; they are very prone to spontaneous combustion. All rags with oil should be removed from the shop.Comment
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Cadium Plating
AJAX,
In the aircraft world we clean the corrosion off of cadium plated parts with nothing more stiff than a brass brush or a green pad...for minor corrosion. We then use a corrosion preventative spray, it comes in avionics grade(dries soft) or regular that drys hard. Any more than this and the cadium will be scrubbed off leaving yourself open to damage to the part. The other gentlemen are right...this is something(re-plating) best left to the pros. We replace everything that has the plating worn off. Hope this helps, DAD63 P.S. That is the procedure I use on my 63 FLHComment
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Forgot something
AJAX,
I did not read your whole post, oil on cadium plating is no big deal. Actually it will help preserve the plating. We use Iso. Alcohol to clean prior to inspections. Our clean shops do use some extremely harsh chemicals and it does not seem to effect the cadium plating. I have used gunk on my rear spokes and other areas with no adverse effects. The biggest problem is when the plating gets nicked or gouged etc.. DAD63Comment
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