Paint rear fender hinge

[1970 XLCH]

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to paint a rear fender hinge so you can actually use it ?

[billpedalino]

I'm smiling while reading your question only because in over 45 years, I've never heard of a credible solution. I've always been told that Harley applied the final (color) coats with the hinged section bolted in place and left it up to the future owner to do the 'chipping' when he opened the rear flap for the first time. Personally, I've never operated that rear hinge on any of my bikes for that very reason. However, I would think that if anyone would know of the correct solution, it would be fellow AMCA member John Pierce.

[vph-d]

I've never flipped up the tail section on anything , either.
VPH-D

[Natez1]

Being a collision repair instructor and a all round bike nut take it for what it's worth, but here is what I have done and it works as good as I've seen. I leave them assembled, sandblast, metal work, plastic filler work, MASK THE HINGE AREA for primer, block sand, when ready for final paint the hinge should be bare steel, I open the fender seal inside the fender then outside, ONE VERY LIGHT COAT AROUND THE HINGE, close the fender 7/8 closed,let it dry so I can remask the hinge area temporarily, on the last coat of paint I unmask the hinge. so only one coat gets on the hinge. Too much paint build up around the moving part of the hinge causes chips. Doing all this, yes it still chips sometimes but not always. Oil it and leave it shut as much as possible.

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[Rubone]

I've never given it a thought and flip mine up regularly. Some chip, some don't, and it really doesn't matter if you use the stuff. For Trailer Queens I guess it is an issue...

[jim d]

I have 2 OP /2 BMWs and open the rear fender on both with no chipping. If I was working on the hinge area I would pay attention between the hinge sections and may clearance a little with a file or a Dremel. Also blow out the area well and limit the amount of paint to that area as Natez1 advised. I think I remember a discussion where someone was using a very thin wire or similar item to cut through paint in the hinge sections right after they were painted. The guys doing there 100 - 200K resto-mod cars at the big auctions must have a way of dealing with it so that may be a area to ask how it is handled.
Jim D

[Robert Luland]

I never really gave much thought to it. As others have said, I would never open it. Always remember that if you wear a helmet. You got a jack. ½ helmets are perfect for this and I’ve had the chance on a few occasions to test it in action. As a restore and painter, this is how I would go about it. First I would glass bead both hinge ends and that means attached to the fender. Next I would parkerized both ends. Keep in mind that you only need ¾” of solution in a pot that will fit. The reason for this is rust prevention. Next cut little masking tape circles larger than the circumference of the diameter of the hinge outside diameter (I will get into this later). Put the masking tape circles on the hinge mating surfaces. Just use a screw driver to press them on. Now shot your fender with a self edging primer to start (I favor DuPont Vari-Prime). I shoot this stuff on parkerized parts all the time and it eats right in. Keep in mind that self edging primer is not water proof (Thank you my good friend John Pierce) and you still have to shot a workable primer over it to seal it. Now after shooting your final top coat the masking tape circles have to be removed within 5 minutes while the top coat is still elastic. This is why I told you to make them over sized earlier, so you can get your finger nails on them and yank them off. This is a lot of work but there are people out there that will go through it. Me. No way. I’ll stick with the helmet jack thing.
Enjoy, Bob L

[exeric]

I was looking at the hinges on my '48, and '51 FLs yesterday. I went to great pains to get the hinges to work without interference, or paint overspray. Of course they are chipped but I see that as a sign of use like gas stains on the engine cases. I've always liked the 'trunk' feature on Harleys and think they were meant to be used and appreciated for how easy it makes chain, and rear wheel maintenance. I'm saying this as a the lover, hater, and owner of a skirted Indian Scout.

[RichO]

I just stumbled on this thread and I just couldn't keep my two cents to myself. Sorry. I was on a National road run and a well known restorer ask me and a few friends to help him service his flat rear tire. What a mess. Come to find out he welds (where it can't be seen) the fender flap and main fender body together as to make the hinge note able to be chipped. It begs the question if National judges should not only check to see if the machines runs but if everything on them is able to function as designed. i say this with my tongue firmly planted in my cheek. I fixed my hinge. I bobbed the bike. .

[exeric]

Good post, Rich. That guy should be ashamed of himself for doing that to a functional, useful feature, but I have to wonder if that road run flat was his wake-up call. A lot o bikes have a center stand feature that helps with a rear tire change, but very few give you help with the front tire. I think the rigid frame H-D rear stand made jacking the front end much safer, and easier than many bikes but it's still a bit jakey. I bought a Harbor Freight hydraulic lift that should roll under the center of a bike frame but all of my bike are too low, or have some low hanging feature. I guess that is where creativity come in.

[Rubone]

Flats on the road?? Crash bars/safety bars/whatever you want to call them. Lay it on its side and go at it.

I always save a bit of paint for touch up and don't concern myself much with chips. Of course most of my paint looks crappy anyway so there is that!!