Saving original paint... just a bit longer

[sirhrmechanic]

So I have a client with a 1913 RR and limo body. Spent many years in a museum (badly maintained) and now he has re-commissioned it and is gently driving it. It still has vestiges of original paint. But it is cracking badly and he is losing it in chips/pieces as he drives.

Paint is original coach-paint lacquer over aluminum and wood. Brushed on and sanded back to a final finish. Probably re-brushed a few times since new... but all by the same process and in same colors/pattern. You could do that with Lacquer. Fenders, unfortunately, had to be repainted and the top is also going to need replacement.

Probably, given all the issues, this paint job is too far gone to save. But we still don't want to just strip it immediately and simply repaint if we can save it a little longer.

So my question.... what can be used to stabilize the lacquer? I am assuming that there are some kinds of varnish that can 'anchor' things a little longer. Or a urethane product. Key, I think, is something that will not melt the lacquer, but which will stabilize it.

I figured that if anyone had the best knowledge on how to stabilize old original paint... it would be you guys. Appreciate any thoughts or processes. I plan to go see the car in a few days... so will have more info and photos after I look at it closely.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[rwm]

Your problem is the wood and aluminum
Shrinking

[sirhrmechanic]

Certainly there is some of that with the wood... But the lacquer also shrinks. It never really 'dries' it just loses all the solvent and then turns back to lacquer chips/powder.

And I am sure it's exacerbated by the paint/aluminum being exposed to sun, cold, etc. as he drives. Aluminum does expand considerably in the sun!

So you are right... and probably means that whatever we use to stabilize it... has to be able to expand/contract! As well as stick to aluminum. Which usually needs etching... It's not an easy puzzle to solve!

Thanks, Rob!!

Cheers,

Sirhr

[T. Cotten]

Sirhr!

I suggest getting it real warm in the sunlight, and painting it with melted Johnson's Wax.
JNSNSWAX.jpg
.....Cotten

[sirhrmechanic]

Sirhr!

I suggest getting it real warm in the sunlight, and painting it with melted Johnson's Wax.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]13832[/ATTACH]
.....Cotten

Cotton: Interesting product. Can you elaborate? Is this a form of furniture wax? Does it simply 'wax' seal things?

I am intrigued, but before I pass on to my client, I'd like to get a feel for what the process does/is.

Cheers and thanks very much!

Sirhr

[T. Cotten]

Sirhr!

Johnson's Wax has been a household word in the USA (and beyond, if we believe that label) since these machines were new.
It it still widely available at local hardware and larger "marts", although I sincerely grieve that they changed the formula of Lemon Pledge!

The idea is to encapsulate, protect from moisture, and oxygen, and photons,.. and give it a pleasing appearance.
A soft horsehair shoebrush gives it a real glow.

I think spitting on it, in the traditional shoe-shine fashion, needs more consideration, but certainly worthy of study.
JNSNSWAX.jpg
....Cotten

[sirhrmechanic]

Hi Cotten:

I am definitely familiar with it... Also seen it used under names like Butchers Wax and (my favorite for pine furniture) Briewax. Just never thought of using it on old lacquer. But I can certainly see how it would be a benefit! I think we'll try a small area and see what we can do... But I like the theory.

You don't have any pictures of bikes/tanks/fenders, etc. you've treated this way, do you? If it were my own car, I'd already be trying it. But I want to be able to show my customer that it is a great way to approach the preservation. Wish I knew more about old lacquer. I did brush paint a car (of my own) once. It was spectacular. Used real 'bug' lacquer and painted on more coats than I can count, hand rubbing each back. The resulting paint was unreal. But so delicate... it had to be touched up constantly and was always cracking. The good news was... sand, brush some more on... and it's gorgeous again. But it was my own car... I understood the risks, the upsides and the downsides. With other people's 'stuff' I am naturally more cautious!

Thanks for all the great input and cheers!

Sirhr

[T. Cotten]

Sirhr!

There's only one Johnson's Wax!

Photos would be pointless as they lie, with true nuances lost anyway.
Just as modern paints will never reflect the same spectra as original compounds, the difference between Johnson's, WD-40, boiled linseed oil mist, or mayonaisse would be hard to capture.

....Cotten

[exeric]

Tom gives a good recommendation for a reliable product. I use it here in Florida on my bikes that sit, and I can't think of a better, more affordable product to keep humidity at bay.

[sirhrmechanic]

Thanks guys... I have passed on the recommendation.

And, Cotten, not to imply that there are substitutes for Johnson's for this application. Just that there are similar products that I have used on furniture. Have not tried Johnson's, but certainly have heard of it.

Thanks everyone!

Cheers,

Sirhr

[harleytoprock]

I would like to add this. I find it's best to polish this wax as soon as you apply it. If you let it dry, it's a bear to polish off. Wax on, wax off!

[Lonnie]

I would like to add this. I find it's best to polish this wax as soon as you apply it. If you let it dry, it's a bear to polish off. Wax on, wax off!

I agree for sure! When I worked in a body shop while in high school for a time that is all that we used on the lacquer paint jobs. If you were interupted before you could take the wax immediately off, it could turn into an ordeal.

[fciron]

I use both Johnson's and Butcher's wax for various things. Johnson's is a softer paste coming out of the can than Butcher's wax and might be easier to apply without damaging the existing, delicate finish. (I believe Butchers wax contains more Carnuba wax and leaves a slightly harder finished product.) I second the recommendation of a shoe polishing brush for final buffing.

I have an old Ner-A-Car with the original lacquer paint. It is not chipping and will probably receive a gentle wash and several coats of Butcher's wax.

[exeric]

Johnson's wax will turn to hard wax if left to dry. For me, that's ideal for protecting nickel plated parts. When I do want to take old wax off, I just apply more wax and polish it all off.

[Shaky Jake]

You guys make a compelling case. I just got on Amazon and ordered a tin of Johnson's wax.

Kevin

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