Decals/waterslide transfers HELP?

[frichie68]

Forced to redo my VL tanks, I'm about ready to apply the tank decals.
Looks like most of the info on the web pertains to models and toys, tiny decals. I don't want to mess up my larger (and more expensive!) decals. "Correctness" is not a concern, it's a rider and will not be judged.

> Should I clear-coat PRIOR to applying the decals?
> A 2nd (and possibly 3rd?) clear-coat over the decals?
> Should the tank surface be pre-wet before applying?

As I understand it, the decals should be dipped in warm water 10-15 seconds until they start to slide from the backing. Placement should be easy as long as they can be slid a bit to line them up with the paint.
Am I close? What am I forgetting? Any tricks?

Thanks in advance, and a SPECIAL thanks to Jim!
Rich

[sirhrmechanic]

You are probably best putting it on a thin layer of clear and then doing another layer over it. You don't want to mess with the color coat as it tends to be thin and fragile, if applied right.

And if you have a problem with the transfer, you can remove it, scuff the clear and start again. Tough to do with your color coat.

Opinions may vary, but that's how I always did it.

BTW, a drop of dish soap in the warm water (in which you soak your transfer) may be helpful. Then blot the decal dry very gently. Paper towel works well, but make sure everything is clean before more clear. Paper towel leaves a lot of lint... so use a tack cloth. And don't use any soap which might have silicone in it. There are some out there that do. Dawn Dishwasher detergent is what I always used.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[exeric]

You want to put the decal on a finished surface; either color, or clear. If you sand the surface, the clear edges of the decal will show the sanded surface (i.e. it will look like a frosted border around your decal). I always put a clear coat over the decal to protect it otherwise it will break up and flake off. For a rider, a clear coat is essential. Originally, most manufacturers used a copal varnish on the decal, and pin stripes and that was applied with a brush. If you clear coat the decal, go easy on the first coat, and mist it on. Let that coat dry before you go any heavier. You can't be too careful, or cautious on the initial coat as decals are very sensitive to volitile reducers. Also, let the decal fully dry from it's water bath after you first apply it, and before you shoot the clear coat (at least a day).

[harleytoprock]

Eric gives good adivce. I have experienced what Eric he said about putting a decal on a sanded surface. For now on, I buff and polish the surface first. This will make sure that the clear edge doesn't look frosty and also insures no dust specs of junk on the paint surface will interfere with decal application. I try and cut off the clear areas anyway on the decal before applying but depending on the decal shape it's not alway possible.

[sirhrmechanic]

Excellent point both Eric and Toprock on the surface and the possibility of 'frosting' if applied on a sanded surface.... Toprock has a good point about trimming the edges very closely, too. Forgot to mention that. Less important on light-painted surfaces, but on a dark surface, it will look horrible if the edge is not treated carefully.

For some reason Youtube is not working right now... probably Sun Spots. But there are some good videos on applying decals to bike tanks.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[Chris Haynes]

The factory covered the tanks with Copal Varnish after the transfers were put on. Clear coat will cost points if you are going for judging.

[exeric]

There are good decal makers out there today, but no one makes them like they used to be made. The application was very different, and the decals were remarkable thin. Just my opinion, but I think the quality of old decals were the at the zenith of the printer's art, and that is another ancient technology that is all but gone.

[rbc]

The factory covered the tanks with Copal Varnish after the transfers were put on. Clear coat will cost points if you are going for judging.

How can you tell the difference between Copal varnish and clear coat on a tank? Is the varnish applied with a brush or sprayed? Is Copal varnish still available?

[exeric]

Copal varnish is available at any art supply store that sells artist oils. It was applied with a fine, quality brush. It comes in different grades, and you can tell by the price. The good stuff doesn't yellow as quickly. If you want to try it, do some tests on a sample plate first. It's usually obvious on an original paint bike as there will be a yellowish border on decal edges, and pinstripes.

[Tom Lovejoy]

be careful, thin coat's of clear. I did several coats and all looked well on my Henderson, that night several hours later. One decal had bubbled up pretty badly.Very frustrating when all looks so near finished - good luck.

[len dowe]

I did some research on this and most Artist's shops have Copal Medium which is not a true Copal "Varnish". Here is where I purchased some. At the bottom of the page is a link to see all they offer and too order. I picked up the 19th Century Copal.
http://www.jamescgroves.com/copalvarnish.htm

[frichie68]

Thanks for ALL the GREAT responses!
Bit of a snag, the clearcoat orangepeeled badly, now gotta figure out how to iron it flat before applying decals, so it'll be a while. I'll put up a photo when I get there.
BTW, age doesn't necessarily mean smart....obviously!
Rich

[harleytoprock]

Rich, What kind of clear did you use and was it brush or spray?

[frichie68]

Spray, Matrix 4.4 VOC Euro Clearcoat, cheap Harbor Freight HVLP. I'm a rank beginner with a spray gun. 40 PSI (at the gun) worked fine for the base coat but directions were lacking for the clearcoat. Took a wild guess, used 35 PSI for the clear, did some shots on cardboard to test the pattern but couldn't tell if it would lay flat. It didn't. It's fairly deep and clear...but bumpy as hell.
I could have, and HAVE done far better with clear from a rattle can.
My option now seems to be wet sanding back to flat.
After that, I'm still concerned with how to get a smooth clearcoat after applying the decals.
Thanks for responding.
Rich

[Frankenstein]

Lots of variables with orange peel, too "fast" thinner, air temp, paint not thinned enough, etc.
On decals, I always have problems with the "speedball" graphic, usually have to make a fine horizontal cut at the front along a gold horizontal line to help work out all the wrinkles. If done well, it can't be noticed.
Dick