I have a 1913 motorcycle that roughly half the original paint. I want to leave the original finish intact, but bring out as much of the original paint as possible and prevent additional rusting. I have heard that Gibbs is good for this purpose and have also had someone suggest mixing diesel and linseed oil. Does anyone have any experience with this type of thing?
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rbrockhoff!
Mayonaisse works.
But I prefer to use what would have been used, as shown in the attachment.
The formula hasn't changed, and a heat lamp or hotair gun melts it into faded or "chalked" paints for a durable shine with little effort.
....CottenAttached FilesAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I have a 1913 Yale and I am looking for a look something like this old indian http://www.yesterdays.nl/indian-1912-single-pi-843.html I basically want the unrestored look, while preventing any future degradation in the original finish. I had not heard of Johnson's wax and I had not heard of the mix of Gibbs, Kerosene, and mystery oil. It sounds like I need to do some experimenting to figure out which will look best for my application.
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55tmm!
Doesn't that red MMO stain chalky paint?
Gibbs is new to me, what color is it?
Johnson's is old. And you can tint it if you really like to.....
I prefer a hard layer of protection before any volatile, other than petrolatum, of course!
....CottenAttached FilesAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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I didn't seem to notice any discoloration,try an inconspicuous place first,
It was not my recipe but recommended by a restorer with good results on old rusty sheet metal.
Gibbs, now SP3 is also red in color, I'm learning other methods here as well and may try some.
I would hate to hear bad results because of me, use at your own comfort level. Thanks
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You might want to try this: http://www.carwell.com/products-cp-90.htm
In Canada this is known as Crown Rust Control. Their logo is seen on Speed Channel sometimes. Amazing stuff, it is red but when it goes on it turns clear and leaves a gun oiled finish look that does not harm paint.
No HAZMAT in the product as it is a petroleum hydrocarbon that is highly refined.
Parkerizing loves this stuff, lasts anywhere from 4 months to a year (for corrosion protection) depending on exposure and the real interesting thing is you can paint over the product if you wish. Apply, let it absorb into
the metal for 24 - 48 hours, soap and water the residual product off an paint.
Only oil based product I know of where tests performed by DuPont have shown zero interference with paint bonding.
Not that your going to want to paint the finish on your bike, but the protection the product offers is superb.
Also is the best product I've found in years for use with frozen fasteners. Treat, let the product sit for a few minutes (depending on how much scale has built up) and amazingly frozen fasteners come loose easily.
Have a friend who used this on his original paint VL. He said it is the best product he's ever used for bringing old paint back to life.
Tom, the wax you'd shown, looks like it is not manufactured anymore. Looked and did not see anything on the web.
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I was told years ago by a guy who is a tire expert (tests them for a living) that putting paste wax on your side walls will keep them form weather cracking also. It is basically what they used to use in tire molds as a releasing agent to let the new tire be taken out of the mold. Seems to work for me all these years.
Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA # 12766
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Rich!
I would get Johnson's Wax across the street at the hardware store, but I have several cans left from dumpsters. It is widely available.
Its good for polished leather too.
"Lemon Pledge", also an S.C. Johnson product, was great... until they changed it to a wax-free formula.
....CottenAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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