Sprayin Black Paint

[exeric]

Bill, you brought up isocyinates and that is my main prejudice against true catylized paints. I use Nason black enamel with a wet look hardener and have no complaints. I also believe it is very application friendly and hard to screw up. I use a cheap jamb gun, but also use a HVLP gun for some applications. I only paint motorcycle parts in small volume and always outside with particulate protection. I work to get a nice finish on frame, and ancillary parts, but I always wet sand and buff out body parts.

[tfburke3]

Bill, you brought up isocyinates and that is my main prejudice against true catylized paints. I use Nason black enamel with a wet look hardener and have no complaints. I also believe it is very application friendly and hard to screw up. I use a cheap jamb gun, but also use a HVLP gun for some applications. I only paint motorcycle parts in small volume and always outside with particulate protection. I work to get a nice finish on frame, and ancillary parts, but I always wet sand and buff out body parts.

I would recommend anyone spraying urethane or epoxy get a fresh air supply.I paint outside but still use a hoobieair turbine. 400 bucks for the unit ,hoses and face mask. .I put the turbine in the garage in clean air and close the door then paint outside.If you can smell it your breathing it.Tom

[billpedalino]

Well, it took a couple of months, but I've been experimenting and I'm happy to state that I've enjoyed some success. On Sunday it was 54 degrees and I reluctantly made the decision to paint one of my Sportster frames. Fortunately, it came far better than I expected. I'm now using Dupont Nason single-stage FulThane and after experimenting on smaller parts with adjustments to the recommended amount of reducer, I think I have the formula dialed in. The frame looks like it's covered with liquid black. Unfortunately this black finish is far better than what was applied at the factory under the industrial painting processes of the 1960's. But I'll live with it! I've attached pictures of the prime, seal and fininsh coats. After a day and a half cure time, the finish is farily hard (it needs a couple of additional days of curing) and looks like is did just after spraying on the paint. I'm very pleased, with the product, with my improving technique, and with the results and I'm glad that I recorded my application data and the corresponding results after each of the previous trials. Thanks to all of the above who held my hand through the learning curve.

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[painterdale]

Yeah, Buddy! Looks great, Bill! Dale

[DanM]

Nice Job BILL!! Its always fun to rig up the holding fixtures too!

[billpedalino]

Nice Job BILL!! Its always fun to rig up the holding fixtures too!

Yes - and my driveway is on a steep slope too!

[billpedalino]

Well folks, as it works out my black paint job is not as good as I had hoped. My paint supply shop recommended the use of SEM spray can primer beneath the Nason sealer and top coats. He said, 'don't be dumb and spend all that time and money on catalyzed primer/fillers. He stated that he sells about 20 cans of this SEM stuff per week for the past several years to local guys who do spot repair and it works extremely well.

Well, it may be ok for flat-panel sheet metal, but not so great on castings, forgings and structural tubular steel. I'm noticing that in certain places, the adhesion to the base metal is not so great and I must do touch-up with an air brush. I'm sure that after the bike is totally together and all parts are playing well together, I'll have to disassemble it and probably strip/re-shoot all of the black.

I'm now using Glasurite 801-703 chromate primer and it appears to be working well. It's not cheap, but far less expensive than what's now ahead of me with this Sportster, but, I'm not complaining. This part of the learning curve is what 'paying dues' is all about. I went through an 'apprenticeship' many years ago when learning to be a Harley motor mechanic and one must accept the process with dignity and humility. In the end, I'll never be a professional painter, but I'll have bragging rights to the fact that the only things I don't do myself on my several old bikes is the plating and tank/fender painting. All else, for better or worse is by me, and that makes me feel good!

[exeric]

I'm sorry to hear that about the primer separating from the part. I've had that happen and it does not sit well with me Like you said, I too will never be a professional painter but I do enjoy it, I love the end result, and I love saving the money because I'm cheap. Otherwise; were you happy with the Nason Black?

[billpedalino]

The Nason paint is a lower-quality DuPont product and I do like it very much. I'm using the Mercedes black and I really like the rich, black final appearance. When I screw up the application it color sands well and polishes out quite nicely. As a single-stage product, there's no need for clear coating, although that forces the hand application of copal varnish over the oil tank decals. The Nason has proven to be very forgiving to a duffer like myself, although I am curious about the PPG line and I may try that next. But regardless of the top-coat, the Glasurite primer seems to have made my painting process a lot better.

[Tin Man 2]

I realize that I'm a new guy here, but I've painted for years. I would like to say that if your primer is not sticking to the base metal it is because the surface is not Clean enough. Cleaning around welds and seams with Lacquer thinner and a tooth brush before priming will go a long way to promoting adhesion. Regards TM2

[exeric]

Great tip TM2. I have an up-coming problem with the front fender on my '48FL. The primer did not adhere to the fender skirts and I have some embarrassing puckers in the paint. Paint is a funny thing; if you get it on your pants it will never come out, if you get it on your fender, it will come off in no time

[billpedalino]

Eric,
I strongly recommend the Glasuruite 801-703 chromate primer. The more I work with this stuff, the more I like it. It is used as a high-build primer it cures quickly, sands very well, sticks like glue. With a little more reducer, it can be applied as a sealer as well. I haven't top-coated it yet (still too cold) but my body guy tells me to finish-sand it with 500 paper before applying the black and it will lay out nicely. I've seen some of his own car restoration work using this primer and its very impressive.

He also recommended that I buy a better spray gun that the cheap Chinese piece of junk touch-up gun that I was using. So, as per his suggestion I just bought a used IWATA W-400 but still need to buy a cup. Can't wait to Try it when the weather permits.

[exeric]

I'll try the Glasuruite primer Bill. I plan to do some painting in a few months. I've never used Glasuruite products, mainly due to their price, but I've always heard high praise for it's quality, and ease of application.