Drilling hole in finished fender

[NiteOwl]

I am installing a luggage rack to my 42. The rack requires at least one hole to be drilled just aft of the seat. My fender is painted and I am not anticipating any repainting for years to come.

What is an accepted method to make the appropriate hole in the fender, (drill yes ), is there a technique or a something I should do to lessen the damage to the surrounding area?

-=Bob=-

Luggage rack-2.jpgLuggage rack-1.jpgLuggage rack-3.jpg

[exeric]

Put a strip of blue 3M tape on the painted surface and drill through the tape. It also allows you to pen in the dimension lines to mark your location.

[Lonnie]

Bob, I have the same luggage rack on my '42 and it did not require the drilling of any holes. The front tab mounts using the same holes that the buddy seat clip utilizes while the brace uses the fender mount bolts. That being said, if you must drill through painted sheetmetal apply masking tape to the area and lightly center-punch the location of the hole. The tape will help keep the drill bit from walking and will also help keep the paint from chipping. Note I said "help".

[Robert Luland]

Listen up boys, don't ever use a drill bit on sheet metal if ya got a choice. All they do is pull, twist and mutilate! Being that I work with sheet metal all day long let me put forth a better way. It's called a Rotabroach. Just like it's big bothers that we use in our magnetic drill press. As Eric stated I would tape the area, then rig up the luggage rack. Use a transfer punch so your center is on the money. Drill an 1/8" hole and follow through with the Rotabroach of the right size and end up with a perfect hole with no ruined paint. Guys invest in a set of these puppies and be forever happier. Bob L
PS: Don't get lazy. Pull the rear wheel off before you wreak your day!

[exeric]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...CA&FORM=IQFRBA

Bob knows his stuff but a Unibit is a lot cheaper and makes a round hole in sheet metal too. If I'm drilling into a fender (which I haven't done in many years) I put a metal plate between my "tire killing drill bit and the tire.

[Robert Luland]

Eirc, I put that tool in the same catagory with vise grips.

[NiteOwl]

Gentlemen, thank you for the feedback, all very helpful. Bob L got me thinking that I might have access to a hole punch like used on switchboards, I wil check that out today.

[NiteOwl]

Luggage Carrier Bolts

Lonnie - Thanks for the reply, could you tell me if you are using 1 or 2 of the front mounting holes for the bracket to the fender?

I also have another question for anyone.
On my fender struts, to the frame, the hole size is 7/16", interestingly the hole size on this rack is also 7/16". There has been much controversy on these racks as it seems they just came out prior to the war and once the company switched over to the WL, the racks had 2 extra side brackets riveted on (mine does not have even the holes), many people have said to me they were never made for the EL, I think that this is a misconception. Anyway I ordered some "Luggage Carrier Studs # 53433-42 " they came but the bolt size is 3/8" Now I am a bit confused as I can not find the Luggage Carrier bolt in any of my books that is the correct style with the 7/16" size. Either I am off my rocker on the rack being available for the 42 EL, or perhaps my braces are drilled wrong. Anyway there could be a number of reasons, at the end of the day I want to get the proper bolt to attach my rack. I am considering using the 3/8" one and bushing the luggage rack and the fender struts to fit the smaller 3/8".

Anyway I thought I would ask if anyone else has come across this and what some opinions might be.

Attached is a photo of the "Colony" "Luggage Carrier Bolts sized at 3/8"
P1020756.jpg P1020757.jpg P1020759.jpg

[longhorn]

I had the same problem with the colony kit. Call Old Dude and he has the correct size.



Ken Kalustian
AMCA 2065

[NiteOwl]

That's way to easy ! Grin, thanks Ken that's perfect.

[Lonnie]

What you should have is the civilian version without the WLA saddlebag mounts, the plates on the side you reference. The civilian version does not have those as it was not intended for use with those bags. For that purpose, I suppose you would have saddlebags that mounted similar to the 1936 EL type, 11785-X.

The studs you have, Bob, are for the WLA. Referencing P. 482 in Palmer's book, you can see from the photo that the legs bolt to slightly longer bolts at the fender mount location. The parts manual also shows the correct bolt. However, when I installed my rack, the legs seemed to want to ride on the rivets of the fender brackets, the furthest forward ones, so I added washers there tho the parts book does not show them. Re the correct holes to use on the fender, once the legs are installed there is only one option feasible and that is using all three holes. My rack was NOS so I know it is correct, meaning the tab on yours should have three holes.

FYI, though Palmer's says that the Big Twin version of the rack is taller than the WLA version, I have seen both types on Big Twins seemingly without modification.

For this or any other detail on any vintage motorcycle, I would recommend a factory maintenance manual and the applicable parts book, they save a lot of head-scratching. I also highly recommend Bruce Palmer's book, it has been an invaluable resource in working on these old Harleys.

[NiteOwl]

Thanks very much Lonnie, luckily I do have the civilian rack. Not sure if its aftermarket or NOS, the rivets are smaller than aftermarkets ones I have seen.

I contacted OldDude and he has a bolt arrangement like the WLA's but with one side being 7/16 and one being 3/8, (still not a perfect solution)
Running a straight bolt (p# 2821-30) through, I see that I will have the same problem as you where the rack wants to ride against a rivet on the fender bracket. . . dang!

The way I see it, if only I had the same setup as the WLA stud (but in 7/16), it would be the simplest thing as both my fender bracket and luggage bracket have the 7/16 hole. The problem is the WLA stud is 3/8 on each end and I need 7/16 on each end.
I see from the parts book, (and your explanation) that civilian method is to run a bolt from the tire side through the frame, the bracket and the luggage rack, and then a nut. (interesting that Palmer says to run the bolt through the frame, the bracket, then add a "nut" then the luggage rack then a final nut.) That's an acceptable method for me except that I will have to remove the chain drive on the bikes left side to be able to run the bolt though, again the WLA method is slick and easier to install and remove.

[Highlander]

Palmer's description of mounting is the correct method as this is the was I mounted my civilian rack on my '45 FL. It works with no problems. As Lonnie stated the mounts you show are for the WLA and the rack mounts with 3 fender bolts to the holes the factory provided in the fender for the buddy spring clip, no extra holes required. So that makes a total of 5 mounting fasteners. If you want it right...remove the wheel and run the bolt thru from the inside of the frame.

Highlander

[NiteOwl]

Thank Higlander, I have not been able to find a "bolt" that is specific to this installation, so I supplied my own. I have run the bolt through from the back as Palmer's states and it functions very very well. I do like the rack on there.

Now I am trying to devise a way to add a "temporary" seat so that my GF can come along to a coffee shop on short notice. Grin, I don't like passengers so i need a very temporary setup that does not encourage here to make a habit of it. I was thinking of getting a pad made up that would quickly bolt on or off the rack, it will need to be well padded though as there is no spring.

[Highlander]

Ya could put a pillow on the rack and attach with a couple of small bungie's to the lip or in the four slots on the rack. This is what I have done for a "quick on and quick off", that is if your not looking for something more professional looking...

Highlander :{>