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Starting in 2020, I noticed that on pretty much every National or Chapter road run I went on there were always 10-15% of the riders on modern, late model machinery. As I understand things, if you are over the age of 65, the National allows you to ride whatever you like on a road run, regardless of whether it meets the AMCA's 35 year rule.
Personally, I think this rule is silly and shouldn't be part of our club. Our rules are generous and bikes as new as 35 years old are fully eligible for all sorts of AMCA activities from judging to road runs. There are tons of late 1980s bikes available from all sorts of makers - so running a 35 plus year old bike on a road run should not be a challenge for an AMCA member.
But, what if you don't have a 35 plus year old bike you trust? Doesn't that mean spending $$ on a new machine?
Well, with this in mind, I was curious if one could put together a HARLEY road run machine for two people for less than $4,000 on the road with all maintenance, purchase price, tax, title, tags, and insurance for the year. I know you can do it with many Japanese makes without trying. I constantly see $1000 goldwings. But, can you do it with a full size Harley?
And, it turns out it is possible. Pretty much all 1985 to 1990 Electra Glides are more or less bargain basements bikes right now. There are many clean examples with low miles which can be bought for well under $4,000 and often under 3,000 with a bit of haggling.
This is the subject of this member bike build - a 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Sport (FLHS). The FLHS was the base model in the FLT series -- it came without a full fairing, radio, or CB. The tourpak was optional. Otherwise, it is functionally identical to other Electra models that year.
I found this particular bike during my normal weekend scanning of Facebook Marketplace ads. This one was advertised at $3000 in Sheboygan, WI -- about 180 miles north of my shop. A quick back and forth with the seller told me why it was still for sale - the clutch had started to slip. The owner was waiting to have the clutch replaced so people could take the bike for test rides. I told him to not bother -- I'd take the bike as is for $2500. The owner seemed shocked someone would buy a bike without a test ride but agreed and we loaded the bike up after checking the title matched the frame.
After getting the bike home and on the lift; the cause of the slipping clutch became obvious. Both the cable adjustment and the pushrod adjustment were completely wrong. Someone had set them lso tight the clutch never engaged. Worse, they jammed the pushrod lock nut so they couldn't fix the adjustment. It took only a few minutes to repair and I found the clutch was turned a full two turns clockwise after all free play was eliminated! It never had a chance to engage!
With the clutch reset and the primary refilled, I next discovered the bike had a genuine Pingle petcock and a full K&N upgrade system under the OEM aircleaner. Woo hoo. The bike fired up instantly and there was no more slippage. A five mile test ride revealed a really solid bike with no bad habits or noises - -just really worn out, very old tires (20+ years!)
So, what did we get -- well, we got a 56,000 mile bike that is almost 100% stock. All replacement parts I can see appear to be HD replacement parts, not after market with the exception of the K&N air filter. Biggest deviations are the Eagle Iron add ons for the primary inspection cover and the fuel tank filler. And, someone added foot rests to the engine guard. Otherwise, the bike is dead stock and was even wearing Dunlop D402 replacement tires. As it stands, I would guess this bike would score somewhere in the upper 80s if it were put through judging. The few nicks and scratches on it will polish right out. The windscreen is amazingly scratch and stain free - which is nearly impossible to achieve after 35 years. Even the exhaust is the stock FLHS system and in terrific shape.
Mechanically, I can't find anything wrong besides a sticking rear brake caliper. And, the caliper appears to be still carrying the original brake pads nicely corroded in place. In theory, I just need to clean it very well; but I'll do the full rebuild as it is easy to do on these calipers.
As of right now; the total parts bill to get the bike rolling safely down the road consists of a rear caliper rebuild kit ($35), rear pads ($15), and a set of fresh Shinko 777 touring tires (half the cost of Dunlops) at $275 for the pair delivered. I have oil filers on the shelf and so much 15/50 on the shelf it actually sags a bit -- so no cost there.
All in all; I'm staring at $2500 purchase; $311 for tax, title, and tags, $52 for a year of insurance from Hagerty, and $325 for tires/rear brakes. That's just under $3200 all in to be on the road with fresh rubber . . .
I'll share some update photos as we tear into the bike and clean it up. Cosmetically, it just needs a good polishing.
Maybe I will have this one judged after all - just for fun.
But, hopefully, this one helps illustrate you can buy a lot of bike for peanuts AND be fully AMCA compliant without having to ride a "modern" bike at events.
Personally, I think this rule is silly and shouldn't be part of our club. Our rules are generous and bikes as new as 35 years old are fully eligible for all sorts of AMCA activities from judging to road runs. There are tons of late 1980s bikes available from all sorts of makers - so running a 35 plus year old bike on a road run should not be a challenge for an AMCA member.
But, what if you don't have a 35 plus year old bike you trust? Doesn't that mean spending $$ on a new machine?
Well, with this in mind, I was curious if one could put together a HARLEY road run machine for two people for less than $4,000 on the road with all maintenance, purchase price, tax, title, tags, and insurance for the year. I know you can do it with many Japanese makes without trying. I constantly see $1000 goldwings. But, can you do it with a full size Harley?
And, it turns out it is possible. Pretty much all 1985 to 1990 Electra Glides are more or less bargain basements bikes right now. There are many clean examples with low miles which can be bought for well under $4,000 and often under 3,000 with a bit of haggling.
This is the subject of this member bike build - a 1990 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Sport (FLHS). The FLHS was the base model in the FLT series -- it came without a full fairing, radio, or CB. The tourpak was optional. Otherwise, it is functionally identical to other Electra models that year.
I found this particular bike during my normal weekend scanning of Facebook Marketplace ads. This one was advertised at $3000 in Sheboygan, WI -- about 180 miles north of my shop. A quick back and forth with the seller told me why it was still for sale - the clutch had started to slip. The owner was waiting to have the clutch replaced so people could take the bike for test rides. I told him to not bother -- I'd take the bike as is for $2500. The owner seemed shocked someone would buy a bike without a test ride but agreed and we loaded the bike up after checking the title matched the frame.
After getting the bike home and on the lift; the cause of the slipping clutch became obvious. Both the cable adjustment and the pushrod adjustment were completely wrong. Someone had set them lso tight the clutch never engaged. Worse, they jammed the pushrod lock nut so they couldn't fix the adjustment. It took only a few minutes to repair and I found the clutch was turned a full two turns clockwise after all free play was eliminated! It never had a chance to engage!
With the clutch reset and the primary refilled, I next discovered the bike had a genuine Pingle petcock and a full K&N upgrade system under the OEM aircleaner. Woo hoo. The bike fired up instantly and there was no more slippage. A five mile test ride revealed a really solid bike with no bad habits or noises - -just really worn out, very old tires (20+ years!)
So, what did we get -- well, we got a 56,000 mile bike that is almost 100% stock. All replacement parts I can see appear to be HD replacement parts, not after market with the exception of the K&N air filter. Biggest deviations are the Eagle Iron add ons for the primary inspection cover and the fuel tank filler. And, someone added foot rests to the engine guard. Otherwise, the bike is dead stock and was even wearing Dunlop D402 replacement tires. As it stands, I would guess this bike would score somewhere in the upper 80s if it were put through judging. The few nicks and scratches on it will polish right out. The windscreen is amazingly scratch and stain free - which is nearly impossible to achieve after 35 years. Even the exhaust is the stock FLHS system and in terrific shape.
Mechanically, I can't find anything wrong besides a sticking rear brake caliper. And, the caliper appears to be still carrying the original brake pads nicely corroded in place. In theory, I just need to clean it very well; but I'll do the full rebuild as it is easy to do on these calipers.
As of right now; the total parts bill to get the bike rolling safely down the road consists of a rear caliper rebuild kit ($35), rear pads ($15), and a set of fresh Shinko 777 touring tires (half the cost of Dunlops) at $275 for the pair delivered. I have oil filers on the shelf and so much 15/50 on the shelf it actually sags a bit -- so no cost there.
All in all; I'm staring at $2500 purchase; $311 for tax, title, and tags, $52 for a year of insurance from Hagerty, and $325 for tires/rear brakes. That's just under $3200 all in to be on the road with fresh rubber . . .
I'll share some update photos as we tear into the bike and clean it up. Cosmetically, it just needs a good polishing.
Maybe I will have this one judged after all - just for fun.
But, hopefully, this one helps illustrate you can buy a lot of bike for peanuts AND be fully AMCA compliant without having to ride a "modern" bike at events.