1976 FLH Build

[dukekleman]

Colony makes the kit in black, we opted for chrome in order blend visually against the brake disc a little better. I also use nylon shims on the pin and a stainless steel wave washer. It tightens the assembly nicely and eliminates the all to well known caliper rattle.

[Lyle Manheimer]

I was not aware of any bushings in the rear caliper on my '78 FXS. I thought they came from the factory with the pins located by the aluminum housing only. I made bushings, drilled the caliper and pressed them in. Worked well. I also found the spring shown in dukekleman's photo 2. It was a MoCo part found online and works very well, mine was not chromed. I might still have the part no.

[marksg]

Thanks, I will check into that.

[dukekleman]

I found this method of caliper support to work best out of the options out there. Out of all the items sold, it creates the best support through leverage and the least binding of the caliper so that things can float as well. Here's a recent restoration I did for a guy. Thought I'd share the images and may be helpful to your project. IMG_20230312_165402034~2.jpgIMG_20230312_165325258~2.jpg

[marksg]

Thanks, that makes sense. I will double check. The bike came with a small basket of extra parts. One of those was a new caliper rattle spring for the rear axle. Not very original but maybe useful.

[vph-d]

The pad pins are worn through because they came into contact with the edge of the disc. That occurred because the pins and bushings were worn-out, allowing the caliper to drop down. Common problem on the banana caliper...
vph-d

[marksg]

Thanks, The support pins and bushings are good. However for some reason the rear pad pis are half worn through. Those are being replaced.
This project may slow down a little as I picked up a 63' Duo-Glide this week while visiting and riding NC.

[vph-d]

Replace the stainless bushings and support pins if they are worn at all. The banana calipers are heavy and the early mount system is weak, and requires yearly inspection.
vph-d.

[marksg]

Mounted the front tire, replaced bearings and installed on the bike. Connected all the wiring at the triple tree. Wiring still looks good and all connectors here look good. I noticed all the electric on the bike uses the frame as a ground. I can not find any kind of ground going back from the front end to the frame either in the drawings nor do I remember removing anything when I disassembled.
I am thinking that grounding through the greased neck bearings is a bad idea. I figure I will run some sort of ground wire/strap from the lower triple tree to the frame.
Started the rebuild on all the brake components. Air did not get the caliper pistons out so I reconnected the front master cylinder and bled the brakes enough to get caliper pistons out front and rear.
The components are in good shape and can be rebuilt. Seems to have the original front caliper with decent brownish anodizing? So I just cleaned it up and rebuilt piston seals. The rear looks to be a later model style but repop. I had poor black paint so I stripped it and repainted and rebuilt. Stripped both master cylinders, painted and rebuilt. I have also ordered both new hoses. The existing had brake fluid so old it looked like mud. I was surprised when none of the cylinders were pitted. When I rolled the bike off the trailer when bringing it home the only leaks were the brakes leaving a trail of brake fluid as I tried to use them coming down the ramp.
Headed off to NC to do some riding on the SG for the next week.

[marksg]

Thanks, This and the recommendation by Joe are exactly what I am looking for. In this case the tranny is complete and back in the frame.

[vph-d]

Since you'll have the trans apart, I would install an Andrews 2:60 first gear and get rid of the stock 'granny low ' first gear.
VPH-D

[marksg]

Thanks Bob, I usually overdue my efforts when I start a project. And I still work 55 hours a week and have a wife.
One of my large projects 10 years ago was an airplane build that took two years, where most people take ten.

Thanks Rich. I hope people enjoy the read. I am mostly doing it for my to just force myself to take pictures and document. I always enjoy reading others builds.

Joe, I had seen the process to check rod bearings and I have done that and feel they are good. My main purpose would be to replace the left main bearing and seal just because and to clean up the cases. Someone has painted them black and I would like to take them back to raw. I hate to do that without a way to keep the bearing dirt free and clean them when done.

[joe fxs fxr]

Before you split the cases, check the rods for up and down play, as well as twisting the front rod/piston. That will be your tell if a rebuild is needed.

[RichO]

Nice job Mark. Reminds me of when I did my 1967 FLH swap meet find. I find it's amazing what gets done in garage's from shore to shore. Home restorations rock! The best is when the ridin' begins. Great work!

[marksg]

Old fork valves showed some wear and corrosion so I ordered a rebuild kit that included new valves and springs. @ 240# I need all the spring I can get and I figured the old springs probably sagged a little after almost 50 years. Sure enough the new springs were about 3/4" taller unloaded.
Finished the front end and mounted a bare wheel to check run out. Not great but I will keep it a little while. I am changing the bearing, seals, tire, tube, and liner.
Decided to change the rear shocks to Progressive 412's. I had replaced front and rear with Ohlins on the Street glide and the difference was worth the money.
Spent most of the day Sunday cleaning and polishing parts. Used paint remover and pressure washer to get paint off of cylinder heads.
Would love to clean up and pain the wheel hub but figure the only good way to do that is to re-spoke and if I do that I would replace the rim as well. Maybe a future project.