1976 FLH Build

[T. Cotten]

Folks,..

The pump will self-prime with the sending unit removed, but it can take a while, especially with heavy oil; Removing balls or springs only defeats any pumping action from kicking.

A really impatient pro might go ahead and pressure-prime the whole motor:
PRIMEBTL.jpg

And really Folks, even if the cylinder bases were loose too, just how much rotational play do you expect to get out of five/ten indexed head bolts? If I ever found any with any design of v-twin, I looked for the problem!

...Cotten

[dukekleman]

Mark,
As Joe mentioned, you'll want to remove the caps and springs for the check ball and pressure relief plunger on the oil pump to facilitate oil flow and air removal.

[joe fxs fxr]

They don't easily in my limited experience. You might have to remove the two tower screws to vent the pump for priming.

[marksg]

Thanks Joe, yes. Cylinders are tight but front head is loose waiting on rear and intake alignment.

I do have a question though. I assumed it would be a good idea to crank the engine with the oil tank cap off so I can see when the oil returns before actually starting the motor. I have been cranking and no oil yet. Not even from the oil line to the rocker box. Will the oil pump self prime?

[joe fxs fxr]

Looks like a bike now! Great work

You probably know this, but are you leaving the heads loose until fitting the intake manifold?

[marksg]

Received my new pistons, bored cylinders and stator so I had a very busy holiday weekend. I installed the stator with seal and installed inner primary. Shimmed trans and tightened it and the rear wheel with chain adjustment. Completed clutch install and put outer primary cover on. Remembers I forgot the started shaft spacer shim so it comes back off. Starter installed and worked on a lot of electrical. Worked on top end and while assembling the valves a split a valve stem seal. Will have to wait on rear cylinder head until the new set of seals arrives. Installed both piston/ cylinders and front head. Advance weights and points installed and static timed. Oil tank and all hoses along with battery box, battery, relay, cover and strap installed.

[marksg]

Things are going together nicely. I have added front and rear fenders, nacelle, luggage rack, chain guard with many small pieces and parts. Reassembled crankcases, oil pump and cam assembly. Installed in the frame. Needed to replace the stator wire case seal and did not have a good one so this held up the inner primary until I could get a new stator.

[dukekleman]

Yes, you are correct.

[marksg]

You are correct the seal is not installed yet. I have been pondering which way to install. I am not installing a belt or open primary, but am going to isolate.
I would assume I still need to install backwards from my picture. Meaning factory direction?

[dukekleman]

Mark I noticed in the photo that your sprocket seal is not installed yet. Just a friendly reminder to reverse the direction of the seal as photo'd if your using the factory chain drive system and oiling. If your converting to belt drive primary, install as shown in your photo.
It looks like a fun project and keep sharing your restoration.

[marksg]

I had dropped off most engine parts to a local machine shop. most parts I just wanted dipped and glass beaded. Top end get a valve job and bore. Picked up all the clean cases last week so I assembled the lower end with new left bearing and seals. Glyptal all internals. I had thought about a small cam but when I checked the existing it was an Andrews F cam. Perfect for what I wanted and in perfect shape so it is going back in. Cases back together with oil pump on and breather spaced. Waiting on cam shims so I can close up the gear case.

[dukekleman]

Looks like a fun project!
Thank for sharing the pictures.

[marksg]

Figured I better get started on the engine. Started stripping the rocker boxes, heads, oil pump and then split the cases. All numbers are good and parts are in very good shape. No broken fins, no stripped threads, valves looks good and cylinders are .010" over with no ridge at the top. Thought maybe I could just re-ring but pistons measure .0035 clearance so it gets bored to .020" and new pistons. Split the cases mostly to have them cleaned and glass beaded as they had been painted while in the bike a couple of times. I am going back with raw cases. I will replace the left side bearing and seal while it is apart.

[joe fxs fxr]

Coming together nicely! You'll probably have to remove the front brake pedal assembly, but there is as good a place as any to store it until the motor goes in.

[marksg]

Rear swing arm mounted, new Progressive 412 shocks, shock mounts and rear tire. The bead is very tight on the rims. I had a hard time getting the bead broke loose and again bead seated when inflating. Decide this will be a good riding bike so I went with Michelin's rather than a classic design. Finished painting and rebuilding both calipers and master cylinders and nounted them all. Replaced brake hoses and switches. Installed front foot controls and floor board mounts.