Pa's 1942 WLA Transmission Build

[Paps]

Pa
Installing the 2260-41 Sprocket cover......... BEND A TAB ON THE DRIVE SPROCKET LOCK WASHER!!! Then....Just basic here. Align the gearbox studs to all of the sprocket cover stud holes and gently tap the sprocket cover onto the studs evenly, until sprocket cover is seated against the side cover. Installed the 0259 lock washers and the 0117 nuts onto the studs. The 0117 nuts have a washer type looking face on them. This face goes onto the studs first. Tighten down the nuts evenly, using a staggered pattern, until they compress the 0259 lock washers. Then torque them down good. Sorry ....no torque specs here either. Note......how the pin in the face of the sprocket cover will retain the gear shifter fork shaft. Photo below.

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Pa
Preparing to install the 2446-41clutch push rod assembly.........................This unit [ next photograph below ] slips through the sprocket cover, from the sprocket cover side, and into the hole through the core of the mainshaft. One of the biggest problems with this unit is the lack of lubrication in them. It doesn’t matter whether they are used OEM or NOS OEM. They are usually dry of lubrication. I came up with the following method of lubricating them, shown in the next photograph below. Yep.....That is what you see ! A syringe!! I got dozens of these, which are left over, unused ones, from when I damn near died, from a severe staph infection. Since I had to pay dearly

for them, I kept them around. Then one day I needed to lube a very small area of a component on an automobile. I came up with using these. It is a pain to load the grease into it but it will direct the flow of grease into even the tiniest places. In the face of an OEM clutch pushrod assembly is a pocket, where you can barely see the ball bearings beneath the tin covering and pressure point fulcrum. I inject the grease into this opening, while rotating the pushrod end of the assembly, until no more grease will enter the fulcrum body of the assembly. Works Great !!!


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Pa
Another Intermission............... I have verified what George said about the chain oiler mounting. It does go onto the starter crank spring stud. Not a problem though. The sprocket cover, crank arm, and starter crank spring is not difficult to remove and reinstall. I will mount the oiler line after the transmission is permanently mounted into the bike frame. I would think, the mounting of the line would be much easier then. In the meantime, I'll continue the build until completed. Thanks George ! You saved me some points !!

Pa
Next episode should come shortly. I want to have the clutch gear seal parts ready for installation, before I go on. The NOS rubber seals are a bit on the hard side. I am soaking them in automatic transmission sealer to soften them up. This is an old rubber refurbishing trick, to revitalize old rubber. Pa

100inchscoot
Yep here’s a factory pic to prove Georges statement about the oiler line

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Pa
Thanks Bro! I really want to get this dead on! That is two verifications to prove the mounting of the chain oiler. Bruce don't miss much. There is very little that Bruce has not seen, done, or experienced. In this case, he must have, without thinking, left it out of his big book. I'll tease him good on this one! As I said though, I will finish the build and mount the chain oiler after installing the trans into the frame. Seems like the logical way to go. Heh?

Rubone
Pa,
Don't forget that the chain oiler was not stock on most 45s. It was on '42 WLAs, WLCs, and on Servi-cars but was optional on all others. Rarely found on a standard 45, so don't sweat it too much!
Robbie

Mike
Pa, make sure you get the angle correct when you slash cut the drag pipe like the one in Scoot's factory photo. Loud & Proud!
Mike

[Paps]

Kev uk
LOL

100inchscoot
Now I know you’re not disputing that’s a factory pic are you?

Pa if you building a wla it most certainly will need the oiler to be correct check out that cool ass chain guard

Pa
LOL

Pa
Yeah but on this one....there was one.

Pa
The next two photographs below are of the 2446-41 clutch pushrod assembly. First photograph is the complete clutch pushrod assembly. The second photograph is how to inject the grease into the thrust fulcrum / bearing end of the clutch pushrod assembly.

Pa
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Pa
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Pa
Well...........the soaking of the 13/16" / 2461-42 and the 9/16" / 2461-42 clutch pushrod oil seals, in the automotive automatic transmission sealer, has worked, and has softened them up, putting back some of the flexibility back into them. Now we can go ahead and install the 2461-41D clutch pushrod oil seal parts, along with the 2461-41B pushrod guide spring ring. Install in the following order.....9/16” / 2461-42 pushrod oil seal, 2461-42B pushrod guide [ pointed end facing out ], 2459-42 pushrod oil seal spring, 0208 pushrod plain washer, 13/16” / 2461-42 pushrod oil seal, 2462-42 oil seal retainer, and last, the 2461-41B pushrod guide spring ring. Before installing these parts, lightly grease them all, especially the rubber seals. Lightly grease the inside diameter of the clutch gear also. Installation of the 2461-41B pushrod guide spring ring is a bit tricky and takes both hands to accomplish the task. Since all of the parts are under tension from the 2459- 42 oil seal spring, seating the 2461-41B pushrod guide spring ring, while simultaneously keeping the 2461-41D clutch pushrod oil seal parts compressed inside of the clutch gear bore, installation of the 2461-41B pushrod guide spring ring, may take you several attempts, before you get it seated and locked into the groove, in the outer edge of the clutch gears bore. I have not yet found a quick way of installing these components. I use needle nosed pliers to grip the turned in ears on the 2461-41B pushrod guide spring ring, and to compress it. At the same time, I use one of my fingers, positioned on the inside of the compressed pushrod guide spring ring, to put force on, collapse, and hold, the pushrod oil seal parts, beyond the pushrod guide spring ring groove, in the clutch gears bore. I don’t believe I have ever gotten the pushrod guide spring ring in, in one attempt, ever, in the past. I didn’t this time either. LOL Always make sure the pushrod guide spring is completely seated in its clutch gear groove!! The first photograph below, show the parts components I just talked about. The second photograph below, show these parts components, installed into the clutch gears bore.

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Pa
Installing the 2446-41 clutch pushrod assembly.......Before we install the clutch pushrod assembly, we need to make sure the clutch pushrod oil seal parts bores are aligned with each other. Look through the bores, via the face of the clutch gear. It is not abnormal for the bores, of all of the clutch pushrod oil seal parts, to be misaligned a small amount. If they are, use a small diameter Phillips head screw driver to align them. Aligned bores make it much easier to install the clutch pushrod assembly. Once satisfied with the bore alignments, lightly grease the complete rod of the pushrod assembly. The lube will aid in installation. Next...insert the rod of the clutch pushrod assembly, into the mainshaft, via the sprocket cover side of the transmission. The rod of the clutch pushrod assembly is tapered a small amount, on the leading end of it. This small tapered end, will help guide the rod, through all of the clutch pushrod oil seal parts. You will feel resistance
when the rod of the clutch pushrod assembly comes in contact with the first rubber seal bore. This resistance is what creates a seal around the rod of the clutch pushrod. I use a soft rubber mallet to drive the clutch pushrod assembly’s rod, through this rubber seal, and the rest of the way through the second and last rubber seal, until the tip of the clutch pushrod assembly’s rod, exits the clutch gear. Fully installed, the fulcrum / bearing, of the clutch pushrod assembly, will be fully within the bore in the sprocket cover. Lightly grease the face, of the thrust fulcrum / bearing, of the clutch pushrod assembly, once installed.

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[Paps]

Pa
Next....I will install the 2076-41A starter crank arm. I will be installing the 2426-41 clutch release lever after this. That is....as soon as I paint it olive drab green. Yeah... another small glitch. My nos narrow lever is parkerized but the early 42WLA type III was painted. I'll try to get it painted tomorrow and install it. We are really on the downhill slope with this build now. On another note....I have a nos chain oiler on its way to me. If I can get away with installing the clamp now, I will do so. Pa

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[Paps]

FlatHeadsix
Scoot, I knew your factory photo was a WR, I've seen it before. I was just teasing

Pa
about the "factory" pipe, I was going to say something about the shorty chain guard too but I left it out. When I was doing one of my WLs a while back I liked the looks of the cad plated clutch lever, like the one in your photo, so I plated one just like it. The AMCA judges didn't think it looked as good as I did. I anodized the cad off of it and through it in the parkerizing tank, doesn't look as good now but it doesn't lose any points either. Oh well.
Pa,

similar to the glycerin trick for the paper gaskets, you should soften that hard 60 year old rubber for the rod seals if you are using the surplus ordnance seal kit. I've found that Kroil will bring them back to life, I put them in a shot glass with a heavy washer on top of them to keep them submerged for an hour or so. If you don't have any Kroil I've also softened them with DOT 5 silicone brake fluid but it takes days of submersion instead of hours, they do seal much better after the "treatment". I will add your Automatic Transmission fluid trick to my list and try it on my next build.
mike

100inchscoot
muriatic acid takes the cad off in about 5 minutes down to the metal but do not breathe the fumes from this process from what i understand its deadly cyanide gas [ok I can't spell it but you know what i mean] i have a process that i use to restore ride control side plates to keep the cad on the upper bushings and get it off the plates that i use the acid for it works perfect
go to any AMCA show and see how many of the upper bushings are painted none i mean none were painted from the factory most you see out there will be and i don't think they get pointed for them either

FlatHeadsix
Cyanide will kill you no matter how you spell it! , just ask all those people from Jonestown a few years back. Oh, that's right, you can't ask them, they're all dead.

Pa
I just hung it in my plating tank and reversed the leads, it comes off as fast as it goes on. Cad is much easier than chrome, very low amp operation, quick and easy. I did give it a quick bead blast and a short pickle in the acid tank, parkerizing will absolutely not work, or look good, unless you have a bare clean ferrous (plain old iron) surface.
I spent most of the day today cleaning 2 sets of VL spokes, going to cad plate them tomorrow. It takes longer to string them up on the copper wire than it does to plate them.
mike
Pa

Pa,
similar to the glycerin trick for the paper gaskets, you should soften that hard 60 year old rubber for the rod seals if you are using the surplus ordnance seal kit. I've found that Kroil will bring them back to life, I put them in a shot glass with a heavy washer on top of them to keep them submerged for an hour or so. If you don't have any Kroil I've also softened them with DOT 5 silicone brake fluid but it takes days of submersion instead of hours, they do seal much better after the "treatment". I will add your Automatic Transmission fluid trick to my list and try it on my next build.
mike[/quote]

Thanks Mike ! Yep !! I am using only NOS parts on this build. 99% are military surplus parts. I put your softening info away for future reference as well. The trans goop I used is thick as STP. The seals could not float in it. Stop Leak actually makes the stuff. I was pretty impressed with it.
Pa

100inchscoot
never saw this till now

#1 it’s not my stuff HD makes it all i just prefer to use it
#2 anyone who has had anything to do with nos parts knows there are a lot of nos parts out there that are still nos because they have a issue with them they get pulled off the shelf a guy realizes the problem and puts them on the back of the shelf
#3 that race was made undersize for a reason

so you can align hone the 2 races in the case to each other most likely at the factory if you don't have a Sunnen hone which without one you’re really doing back yard or field work one last thing not all repop parts are crap just 95% of the ones I’ve found are try Tom Faber’s bars now that man knows how to and also cares to do something correct when he does it try a pro clutch in your big twin

100inchscoot
Paul an old mechanic taught me a trick many years ago instead of grease i use Vaseline for rollers it melts down and gets off the bearings rather fast and lets the oil get to them

Pa
Vaseline...now that is a good idea !
About the undersized race. The race I used was in mil spec packaging. Part number was the same as all race part numbers for a 45. Out on the field, the motor pool didn't have possession of line hones or line lapping transmission tooling. They did have line lapping tooling for the engine cases though. There is no listing for a military transmission line lapping or honing tool for the 45. There is no Harley Davidson dealership line lapping or honing tool for the 45. Not one repair manual, civilian nor military, suggests to line lap or hone the two races inline. Most of both service manuals explain race replacement. After race replacement, they instruct how to fit bearings and assemble the rest of the transmission components. While instructing engine bearing race replacement, they all instruct line lapping. Since no such instruction is given for the 45 transmission, one must ask why. I asked why. This is what I came up with. Side covers are not doweled to cases. Any misalignment in case race to side cover race, is taken out by the huge clutch gear bushing tolerance, where the mainshaft runs inside the clutch gear. There is no need to line them up, any better than what they already are, that is, unless you need to re machine the case because of repairs. Pa

[Paps]

Pa
OK.........George.......... I got the jist of the chain oiler down pat now. I can go ahead and install the 3580-41 clip under the starter crank spring stud. The clip that is on the nos 3575-41A chain oiler pipe is part number 3580-41B. This clip, mounts to the tap hole in the sprocket cover, where the rear chain guard mounts. Mounting the 3580-41 clip will not cause a problem with installing the chain oiler pipe at a later date. It only directs the drip end of the oiler pipe. THANK YOU MR. BRUCE PALMER!!!!! Bruce, being very gracious, called me direct, to explain the chain oiler mounting. So.....though I now have a nos 3580-41 clip on its way to me, I will have to wait on it to correct my early 42 WLA type III transmission build. I also ran across one more little tiny glitch. When I removed my nos top cover from its sealed packaging, I found that the cad plating had aged considerably. It has black discolored areas all over it. I have put too much effort in putting this transmission together, to use the cover in this state of condition. It must be as it would have come from the factory. The cover will go out for re cad plating. No biggy though, it was the last part I was going to install anyhow. Pa

100inchscoot
as i said Paul most likely at the factory if you don't have a Sunnen hone which without one you’re really doing back yard or field work you can't speculate on what parts left the factories stock as in house parts compared to field use parts there was a difference no doubt how many times do you really think a reamer was ever used at the HD factory? that’s a field tool at best and far from accurate at that another one was the lap used on races and rods yet they are constantly mentioned in every manual.

I took apart a rebuilt small block Chevy one time straight from the gm factory it had 1 piston .040 over the rest were .030 over also my uncle had a 53 Chevy pickup that came from the factory with a 52 grill i may not be remembering the yrs exactly correct but i know it had a 1 year earlier grill i took apart a nos shovel motor one time that had never even been out of the crate till i opened it it had a rattle in it inside the breather valve was a hose clamphow the heck that got there is no for me to even try to guess mistakes do happen

Pa
Can't speak for the factory but I can vouch for the dealerships and motor pools. That engine with the oversize piston in it was not uncommon. Those mistakes happened all the time. My guess is, at least one out of every ten inspected, may have ended up somewhat that way. My main point about a 45 transmission case is this. They are not matched case and cover sets. If you pull a cover of, it will go back on a little bit differently. The lack of dowels causes this. Though they have spigots at the large radius and on one stud, the large spigot radius is totally inaccurate. Not only this, the one stud is a threaded stud. A thread never goes back in the same position it started out in. The best the 45 case and cover registers can get repetitive at, is .005" plus or minus, over the 360 degree circumference, of the one mounting stud, with the spigot on it. The rest of the studs rely solely on their drilled and tapped locations. No drilled and tapped location is as accurate as a dowel. Say for example...a 45 transmission case is line lapped or bored, as a set. The next person to get the set, will break it open and set mainshaft endplay on it. He will follow the sequence of assembly, as I have set forth in this topic, and continue to remove and assemble the cover to the case, over and over and over again, until he has the transmission specs all set. Each time he split the cover from the case, and each time he assembled the cover to the case, the bores aligned a little bit differently. No two times, did the two parts mate in exact alignment. Without dowels, they can't. And yes...all the manuals mention line lapping when doing engine bearing race replacement. None mention it when doing 45 transmission race replacement. .002" is a lot of clearance, for factory specs at the

mainshaft, to clutch gear bushing fit, for such a small shaft and bore size. .001" would be at the maximum clearance, in other small sized diameter clearance applications. Why would the factory engineers suggest .002" on the 45 mainshaft to clutch gear bushing then? Because .002" is perfect for a support alone shaft end. It is also perfect for gear pitch specs used. It is also perfect for misaligned opposing bearing races, due to the lack of doweling the side cover to the case. No doubt.... line lapping and or honing, would be absolutely necessary, if the mainshaft to clutch gear, were needle rollers, instead of a high clearance bushing fit. But....They are not needle bearings there. They are bushed together. The clutch gear itself is not supported at all by the mainshaft. It relies solely upon the rollers in the main clutch gear race. The length of those rollers are the clutch gear support. As with the sprocket side of the mainshaft. The mainshaft is not supported at all by the clutch gear. Yes...it is stabilized by the clutch gear, but it is not supported by the clutch gear. Both the clutch gear and the mainshaft, are independently supported by their own bearings. The forces put on the drive sprocket gear, are relying totally on the sprocket covers mainshaft rollers. To support that force. The length of those rollers are that support. The 45 transmission clutch gear and the 45 mainshaft, do align with each other, to the extent of necessary alignment, for the benefit of the countershafts opposing gears. They need not be on the exact same centerline.

George Greer
Pa.
Cool that Bruce called ya direct! Don't see much of him here. I did find another photo showing the clip in place.
In the Army TM on removing the trannie, there's a clear photo showing the clip in place on the stud.
I guess that this is one of my pet peeves about the WLA, because I had such a problem finding information on the correct routing of the chain oiler.
Another one is the placement of the brake cable oiler's location (that's another issue that Chris Haynes helped me resolve with super photo!!).

George
Pa
But that is what makes it a challenge George. Getting it right! All the people knew how to do it back then. They didn't see no purpose in mentioning it in the manuals. Guess they figured that was common knowledge at the time. So was hewing a square barn beam out of a fallen tree with an axe though

Milwaukee belle
Pa ! keep on this good work !

Frenchie S are following you step by step on other forums!!!!!!

FlatHeadsix
Hell Pa, before 1940 there wasn't even a service manual to mention it in! Did you ever wonder why the first complete and comprehensive Service Manuals that the motor company ever published appeared at the same time the WLA did? Before the war the best material that an owner or dealer mechanic had was the Rider's Handbook (which was actually pretty good, kind of like a condensed shop manual). The Mo Co would occasionally issue a Shop Dope, if they felt like it, but it was up to the dealers to keep track of those, owners were lucky if they got the information.

When the Mo Co got the contract to build bikes for the Army one of the contract specifications, requirements, was to produce both a service manual and a complete spare parts list for all equipment they provided to the government, complete with good illustrations of the parts and assemblies, and photos of critical repair operations. The Army gave the books a 9- or 10- TM (technical manual) number, and distributed them to where they were needed. Thanks to the war horses the Mo Co finally started producing a useable service manual and a decent spare parts book.
mike

X-WLCH
Ha Scoot A hose clamp in an AMF breather valve was no mistake.

Pa
COOOOOOOOOOOL ! WAY COOOOOOL Fran-6 ! Pa

Pa
Excellent explanation Mike!!! Pa

Pa
I should be able to add a bit more to this topic sometime tomorrow. [Saturday] Pa

[Paps]

I should be able to add a bit more to this topic sometime tomorrow. [Saturday] Pa

Chris Haynes
I don't know why you are going to all this trouble. I was just looking in Popular Mechanic's and you can buy a NOS WLA for 75 bucks. Well, it was an older issue.
LOL

Pa
LOL LOL LOL LOL

FlatHeadsix
Chris
When I was in high school in Milwaukee in the mid-sixties the urban myth at the time was that there were thousands of them, packed in Cosmoline, still in the crates and stacked to the ceiling in Quonset huts somewhere, and they were $25. The only problem was that nobody seemed to know exactly where the Quonset huts were or who was actually selling them. Another
rumor had it that the MoCo secretly acquired and destroyed all of them so that all of us Harley hungry kids would buy new ones. Sorry, just having a flashback there...... mike

Chris Haynes
H-D did actually buy back the XA's and parts. H-D had planned on making the XA a civilian model after the war. But things just didn't work out. The XA's and parts were split between Harry Molenaar and Dudley Perkins.

100inchscoot
I one finger typed out a big reply on the line honing issue the never posted it cause I just didn't feel like arguing the point I’ll make it real simple you have 1 thou clearance on the rollers in each end and 2 thou in the center bushing you need 1 thou for oil and heating issues you do the math on whether you think 2 thou on that bushing is enough if the 2 holes are not lined up together correctly I have no clue what the AMF stigma was except people were looking for problems and complaining more about them during that era every bike style HD has ever built has had its own set of issues I won't even go into all the earlier model issues Evos had many like leaky base gaskets or 89-91 case races coming loose in the case Evos and twin cams both had major fuel injection issues twin cams had major timing chain flaws hell type in any make car or bike in your browser with the word recall as much as i dislike oriental mixings in American companies had it not been for AMF we would no longer have a HD motor company just about every time a car or bike rolls of the line it has not had the research done needed to keep it on the road till of course the company is about the change to the next model we are the R&D dept. for the most part for these companies

Pa
The .002" is more than enough if the side cover race and clutch gear race, are not off by more .001" from each other. The distance between the two bearing areas, clutch gear bushing and side cover roller bearing race, is quite a distance. Over that distance, the angle of decent [which there is no angle of decent with correct tolerances] from the bushing to the side cover race, reduces that .001", off centerline between the two, to nearly zero [think taper per foot]. .001" roller bearing clearance is listed as the maximum clearance for the roller fit. Specifically, the tolerance for those rollers is between .0006" to .0008 ", with .0008" preferred. I'm the first to complain how the Mo Co engineers surprise me, with how they designed the 45 trans. My how the damn things seem to go on forever though? Their mainshaft to clutch gear bushing fit is a loose fit. They did that because they didn't dowel the side cover to the case. The side cover never returns to the same exact location it was removed from, when reinstalled. There is no true register to insure it does. The two independent shafts still run in line with each other, though they may run on a slightly different centerline. As long as the misaligned bores are not excessive, such as tolerances held to less than minimum, all components will function properly. I've yet to encounter excessive misaligned case to side cover bores yet, even when changing side covers, nor have I yet to fit rollers to a 45 case, even at minimum tolerance levels [ not less than minimum ], and have binding occur, due to the lack of any type of line lapping or line honing. None have failed me early yet either. The engine is a totally different story though. Though the flywheels separate the shafts, those two shafts are literally one shaft on the same plane and centerline. There is no cushion between the two. They must be on the same plane and centerline. If.....a 45 clutch gear and mainshaft were designed as one solid shaft, line lapping or line honing, would definitely be critical. Could the engineers improved on the design? Not much. They stuck with it all the way to 1973. Even with Foreign interests controlling the Mo Co, they didn't try to redesign it. It was eventually cut from production, because it lasted to damn long. You don't sell motorcycles if no one seeks to replace it. Pa

Pa
Sorry Scoot...I got carried away with my 45 clearance explanation...I didn't reply to the major part of your post. I agree with you 100% on the glitches models had. By far, Harley Davidson wasn't alone. There isn't and wasn't, anything, whether it be motorcycle, automotive, what have you, ever designed and built, that didn't have some kind of flaw, not yesterday, not today, not tomorrow. We sure are the folks who knock the glitches out of their products. Usually the hard way....through our pockets! LOL Pa

100inchscoot
We sure are the folks who knock the glitches out of their products. Usually the hard way....through our pockets! i assure you with the $ and time these companies are dealing with we probably couldn't do much better if we could we'd be the ones getting huge bonus's

FlatHeadsix
Which brings us back to what I said a few pages ago, there was a reason they installed a reverse gear idler shaft in every one of those transmissions even though most of them did not come with reverse. That shaft was a structural part of the assembly and served to locate and stabilize the side cover. Do we really know for sure if the factory did NOT line lap the cover to the case after installing that shaft? Even though they may have never received any kind of "witness" marking like the belly numbers on engine cases doesn't mean they didn't do it during assembly. It would end this argument if we knew for sure.
And, exactly like you said Pa, why would you keep something in production that long if it didn't work? If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Mike 37ULH

Not unless Chris has a picture, which is possible I'd guess having seen some of the other detail he's been able to provide.
Bottom line is that by Paul's standards the motor cases would have no repeatability of assembly either and we know that they were line lapped. There is no other logical explanation as with a new shaft and new races, there are no bearings available that will provide proper fit. They have to be sized. How did they size other races????
It didn't make it into field repair manuals as they had plenty of reserves and would have just swapped in a new unit.
But like Scoot, if it's a matter of typing endurance, you win.
Pa

Taken from the "MOTORCYLE MECHANICS HANDBOOK" 1943.
THE ARMORED SCHOOL MOTORCYLE DEPTARTMENT Fort Knox, Ky.
Prepared and published at the armored school Fort Knox, Kentucky, and distributed with the approval of the commanding General, Army ground forces.

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Does this answer the undersized bearing race question ? Note how the instruction implies undersize to all rollers. It uses the mainshaft rollers as an example only. I forgot to underline the statement of rollers in four different places. I know I have a parts manual with the undersized rollers listed in it. I will locate it and post the part numbers for them.
I have tried to obtain the undersized rollers many times in the past. No one had them in stock and no one seems to reproduce them. Pa

Pa
The reverse idler gear shaft is a register, but it still allows side cover position movement during side cover removal and installation. It takes at least two dowels, to place two individual parts, together repetitively. Pa

Pa
Well, I found the undersized roller part number for the mainshaft side cover race rollers [no change to part number] but I've yet to find the part numbers for the undersized rollers on the clutch gear side. What I have noticed, is how the parts and service manuals differ so much. All my later parts and service books note only standard to oversize rollers used. My early books list over and undersized rollers but one of my early books, lists only the side cover side with undersized roller availability.
Taken from 99486-73 Service manual, page 4D-25

[Paps]

Pa
Back to the build....Referencing the 3575-41A rear chain oilers, pipe clip, and the 3580-41 rear chain oiler pipe clip, which mounts under the 2086-41 starter crank spring stud, I illustrated the differences between the two oiler pipe clips, in the photo directly below. I cannot find a part number for the clip attached to the actual rear chain oiler pipe. I don't know if there is one for it. The oiler pipe comes as an assembly. Pa

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Pa
Photograph below shows the 3580-41 rear chain oiler pipe clip installed beneath the starter crank spring stud. I've initially installed it so it is parallel to the mounting surface at the bottom of the transmission case. I will be able to tweak it later, if alignment is off any. Since I had to remove the starter crank spring from the starter crank spring stud, and remove the starter crank spring stud itself, in order to mount the chain oiler pipe clip, I just followed initial assembly procedures, previously posted. Pa

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Notice how instruction is given to ream clutch gear bushing if replaced [ mainshaft rides in this bushing ] but no instruction is given for line lapping, nor line honing, the clutch gear roller bearing case race, if replaced. Why does this service manual not instruct the mechanic to align the clutch gear bearing race to the side cover bearing race? Assembly and fitting instructions, directly follow the paragraph I posted from this service manual. This service manual, would have been the last service manual, a dealership mechanic would have used, during the production life of the 45 model. In the engine chapter, instruction is provided for detail engine case bearing race line lapping, yet no instruction is provided for the transmission case to do the same. Pa

I can guarantee this.....If one was to assemble the side cover to the case, set it up on a horizontal mill, dial in the case, sweep both the side cover race and the clutch gear race with a .0001" increment dial indicator, build a tool to either line lap or line hone the two bores inline, remove the side cover, reinstall the side cover, and then resweeps the two bores with a .0001" increment dial indicator, they would not be completely in line with each other again. Pa

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Brendan
Hi Pa
I am rebuilding my Trans for my solo. I have been measuring and re-measuring today. So far I need new rollers for the side plate based on your (outer race ID - main shaft OD - .0007 clearance)/2. All other bearing specs are OK. I am trying to get to the end play but the transmission I have has the reverse gear. Would you recommend tossing the gear and replacing it with the 2296-33A collar and associated thrust washers? If I keep it, do I need a washer between the reverse gear and the Rollers? It didn't have one when I took it apart. According to Palmers book the case is the same and the shifter cam is the same. But the shifter gear has a 1 on it and a yellow mark. It says that the marking is the only difference??? I need to finish my shopping list so I can continue.
Thanks Brendan

Pa
I can't recommend whether you should keep the reverse gear or go with a straight 3 speed with no reverse. That option is up to you. Do you have the reverse idler gear as well? I have a reverse transmission in my solo bobber project. I chose it for my personal preference. You can build yours how you want it. I imagine your original 3 speed trans was swapped out for a servicar trans at some time, rather than to rebuild the original solo one that came with it. Your bike may even have been built from parts collected. Transmissions with the reverse gear have different tank shifter gates. Do you have a reverse tank shifter gate? If so, what year is your reverse shifter gate? To answer your main question....no, the reverse gear does not have a washer between the rollers and itself. The gear takes the place of a thrust surface for the rollers. If you decide to go straight three speed and use the spacing collar, the spacing collar is not separated by a thrust washer either. The spacing collar acts as the thrust washer also. You mentioned "(outer race ID - main shaft OD - .0007 clearance)/2. ???? The fit is not .0007" per side. It is .0007" total clearance or .00035" per side. What Bruce was explaining about the shifter cam and the marks is exactly that. It is how you time the shifter cam to the shifter gear [where you mesh the beveled tooth of the shifter cams gear to the shifter gear]. Note the shifter gear in the photo in one of my previous posts. You will see the number 3 stamped near the notched mark I used for the 3 speed. That number three is for reverse shifting timing. Pa

100inchscoot
i can only speculate the clip with the 5/16 mounting hole must have been the earlier model cause all my 44 up covers have a 3/8" mounting hole for the spring retaining stud
of course i'm just guessing but I’d say 41-43 had the smaller mounting hole oiler
Pa

I'll keep my fingers crossed that your speculation is dead on Scoot. Since this transmission is an early 42WLA type III, the 5/16" hole would be perfect for it then. My parts book shows the 061 bolt going through it and the 061 bolt is a 5/16" diameter thread. Would you happen to know if the oiler pipe clip was sold separately or as a replacement part as well? If it was, there should be a part number for it somewhere. Pa

Kurt
Pa, you need both clamps for the oiler. One mounts on the starter spring stud and the other goes on the front bolt of the rear chain guard.
Kurt

Brendan
I want to convert it to a 3 speed. Shift gate is 2208-40 front 1 N 2 3 back. At the moment it's swapped I think if I put a 2243-41 cam in, it will match what I want. It’s a 1947+ Cam at the moment. Its mirrored Engine is early WLA, frame is later. Forest through the trees situation. I have been staring at thousandths of inches and bearing races all day and I can't see a big FAT Mirrored shifting CAM.
Brendan

Pa
Absolutely Kurt. I hope my photo illustration wasn't misleading. The photo was to show the differences between the two clips for an early type III transmission. The parts books makes a person think, the stud clip shown in the parts book illustrations, is the clip on the oiler pipe assembly. Thus the reason for the illustration. Two different clips...two different mounting points. Pa

100inchscoot
Paul your pic tricked me I was thinking you were saying there were 2 different clips for the one the mounting at the spring bolt I didn't even think of the top mounting spot thanks Kurt for setting us or at least me straight Paul it’s much easier to install the oiler pipe clips as a unit after the trans is in the bike you shouldn't have to tweak the clip at all as it points right to the chain except it should be on a 90 degree angle with the trans base

Brenden
I probably have anything you need for that trans i'm sure i do in fact

Pa
Nope...but after Kurt posted, I could see how my mounting clip posting, could have been misunderstood as it was. Thus my explanation to the illustration of the two clips. I sure ain't no writer....for sure! I weighed the clip installation procedure of installation and decided to go ahead and toss this one on. I realize, if the pipe doesn't drop down, through the stud mounted clip hole, smoothly, I will have to pull the starter spring and stud again to open it up a bit. After putting the springs on and off so many times, it is a breeze for me now. At least, as it is installed now, I won't forget where and how it goes on. Oh Yeah...I do have it at 90 degrees to the trans case. There is my writing skills again....I said parallel to the trans mounting. Same thing though....but 90 degrees is much easier to comprehend, even for me. Pa

Pa
I've now installed the 2076-41 starter crank arm. The 2078-26 starter crank pinch bolt and a 0129 nut secure the crank are to the countershaft. It is a bit tricky getting the pinch bolt in place. When the starter crank arm is completed retracted, and since the bolt is installed from the right side to the left, there is not enough room or clearance to install it, unless the starter crank arm is rotated counter clockwise, to gain the needed clearance for installment. I find it easiest to install the arm onto the countershaft, making certain the hole in the starter crank arm is lined up with the radius groove, before making the rotation of the starter crank arm, for the pinch bolt installation. The next three photos below show the starter crank installed. Pa

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[Paps]

FlatHeadsix
Just thought I'd throw a word of caution in here for Brendan, and anyone else. You can swap the mirror image shift drums between the early and late transmission, either way will work, but if the drum is the only part you change the timing marks will no longer be of any use. You will have to set the timing by "eye", or by trial and error. If you have both pieces you should change the lever and the drum as a set.
Mike

Pa
You are absolutely correct Mike...and thanks for pointing that out. Myself...I hate counting teeth, just to get the timing on. There are plenty of OEM and nos OEM parts out there to make it easier to complete a build. Pa


100inchscoot
the picture you show above of the clip installed is at an angle not 90 degrees to the case that’s the only reason I brought it up I hate to be anal but as you know I am yes my ol lady has a love hate about that for me here’s two more for you how are you going to install the clutch arm bolts with the kicker arm already on? maybe the earlier short ones will go in but the 44 up ones wont with the starter arm on the shaft I’m honestly not looking for these things but when I saw your last pick I thought it looked funny to me it’s something I never understood about HD
why would you put a bolt in so if the nut came off the bolt falls out or down like BT trans bolts or 45 motor bolts? but anyway i guess this should solve the hard installation issue though
you got the kicker arm bolt installed backwards if you want it correct by HDs standards anyway also you’re missing the washer part #0261 the one the PARTS BOOK [hint]doesn't tell you about or show you at least the military one doesn't and it’s the most reliable one I’ve found the middle pic showing a view of the washer is a 41 by the way i hate to see you lose points over something as easy as putting the bolt in correctly damn i have had to edit this a few times i just looked, the later 49-57 model book corrected that washer not being in the parts book

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FlatHeadsix
Pa
Scoot is absolutely right about the direction of the bolt on the kicker arm. The kicker arms with the milled flat on them make it obvious which way they install, the early ones do not. There are two very important reasons to install it the correct way; if installed the way you have it you will bash the exposed bolt threads and nut against the boss on the sprocket cover at the bottom end of each kick stroke and mess them up, the other reason is that the special slightly rounded thin head of the bolt acts as a stop when it hits the boss on the sprocket cover at the end of its stroke allowing the arm to make a complete swing far enough so that the tripper bolts will disengage the starter gear. That's one of the reasons that they recommend keeping your foot on the starter pedal holding the arm in the down position after each starting attempt, it prevents kick-back of the arm in the event that the engine doesn't start or back fires or whatever.
Mike

John HD 100inch,

By your statement I assume you mean installing a bolt through an assembly from the bottom up with the nut on the top? In my prior life building radio and TV towers I learned the hard way how to install hardware on structures and devices that vibrate. In the case of a tower there are pads where the sections bolt together. Usually 20 or 30 feet apart. I know you are asking "what the heck does this have to do with putting bolts in a Harley?" towers vibrate as the wind passes over them. A lot! I used to think the same way, when something vibrates the nut will fall off leaving the bolt in place. It actually vibrates down the threads with gravity. If you install a fastener from the bottom up the nut vibrates down the threads leaving both the nut and bolt in place. We tried to install the couple of hundred bolts and nuts on a structure we built in a TV station parking lot with the nuts down. Guess what? Within 2 months we were back turning all of them "right side up" after a couple dozen car windshields and hoods were destroyed. We never had another complaint after installing the fasteners the right way. If you don't believe me take a large fastener and put a nut on it, take a palm sander and vibrate it. See what happens! Try it both directions. I have to think the factory applied the same principal to vertical fasteners on bikes.

John

Pa
Chris Haynes
That is a World War II Production kicker pedal. It shouldn't have a 1916 part number.

Pa
The -16 puzzled me Chris also. Pa

[The following parts drawing] Taken from page 32 of "SNL G-523

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[Paps]

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You Folks Will Never let Me Live This One Down. Hope my photo above speaks for itself. I don't know what the hell I was thinking!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure glad you spotted the starter crank bolt Mike!!!!!! I'm not as concerned with losing a point [it’s easy enough to reverse on the spot] as I am concerned with steering other builders wrong, during this build. My whole intention was to help them out, not hinder them. I never squeezed a turd in my hand, but I definitely know what **** feels like now.
Check out how I edited the above photos and text. Hope you all approve of the editing. I didn't remove any of my original text. I just added to it.
What a blunder though!!! The starter crank bolt!!!!! Guess it shows that I am ALMOST human. HEH? Thanks a MILLION Mike and John!!!!!!
About the oiler pipe clip Mike........I'm pretty sure I have it positioned correctly. My camera angle and the transmission leaning way over, due to the bottom frame mounting studs, may have provided an optical illusion to you. The first photo below shows a better view of the clip as mounted. I leveled the transmission for this photo. The second photo below shows the bolt, lock washer, and nut, correctly installed this time. Thanks for pointing out the 061 lock washer as well Bro!! My military parts books don't show it, but my civilian ones do. Funny.......I had an 061 lock washer, in my trans parts for this build. It is on the starter crank pinch bolt now. On the clutch release arm......I didn't have any real difficulty installing the pivot bolts into it. [Yeah.....it is already assembled to the trans. I assemble and then post on it, as I go along with the build ] I think the early narrow type clutch release arm and early narrow type sprocket cover, for the early clutch release arm, is why though. No doubt it would be impossible, on the later wide clutch release arm and later wide sprocket cover, for the later wide clutch release arm, to put the clutch release arm pivot bolts in, with the starter crank already on. Pa

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Pa
NOW..............If I don't BLUNDER AGAIN !!!! Starter crank pedal installation.........
I installed the 2091-16 starter crank pedal, the 2101-31 starter pedal pin bushing, the 2102-30 starter pedal pin spring washer, the 0224 starter pedal pin washer, and the 2100-16 starter pedal pin bolt. Installing these pedal parts is not difficult, but three of them, must be installed simultaneously. To install the parts, it is best to have the transmission side cover side facing you. The 2091-starter crank pedal mounting lug has a radius side to it. This radius side goes into the starter crank slot first. The foot position area of the pedal should be facing to the right, when installing the radius side of it, into the starter crank arm. According to my military books, the 2102-30 starter pedal pin spring washer goes in on the bottom side of the starter crank pedal mounting lug. The starter pedal pin spring washer is curved. The hump side of the starter pedal pin spring washers curve, faces up towards

the starter crank pedals mounting lug. The 2101-31 starter pedal pin bushing, slides into the bore in the starter crank pedal. The bushing is longer, than the starter crank pedals mounting lug is wide. The extra length is used to position and to retain, the spring washer in place. It is these three parts, which must go into the starter crank arm simultaneously. You will feel resistance while installing the three parts do to the tension, created by the starter pedal pin spring washer. Once the parts are seated into the starter crank arm, look down through the hole in the starter crank arm, to make sure all the holes are inline. If they are off a bit, use a tapered punch to line them up. Once aligned, the 0224 starter pedal pin washer and the 2100-16 starter pedal pin bolt, can be installed, and tightened securely. Sorry......no torque specs for this either. A Note about the position of the 2102-30 starter pedal pin spring washer.......Again...My military manuals, show the 2102-30 starter pedal spring washer, as positioned, on the bottom side of the 2091-16 starter crank pedal. Several of my civilian manuals show the starter pedal pin spring washer, as positioned, on the top side of the starter crank pedal. Operationally, I don’t see, whether placing it on top, or placing it on the bottom, as long as the hump side of the spring washer faces the pedal, would affect the movement, or locking ability of it, either way. How about some comments on this ???

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[Paps]

Chris Haynes
That is a World War II Production kicker pedal. It shouldn't have a 1916 part number.

Pa
The -16 puzzled me Chris also. Pa
Taken from page 32 of "SNL G-523

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100inchscoot
Paul
hey i honestly was just trying to help you get it right you notice i only picked on you a little right? Chris from my very limited knowledge the part # never changed on tons of parts even though the part did drastically well unless HD wanted to change the number or leave the part out of some books as we all know they did Pa I still can't believe I did that Mike. Without you pointing it out, I wouldn't have realized it until it was too late.

Parts books with no parts??? 061 lock washer tells that story. Pa ohio-rider
Great job on this assembly Paul. I hope my ink cartridge holds out. Hey... you going to Salem this weekend?


100inchscoot
Ok simple question do you honestly think the factory ever used a reamer if they wanted a accurate job done? you know i'm talking besides brake shafts or seat post bushing that did not require true accuracies just a nice fit reamers create highs and lows in the bushing guess what happens after a few hundred miles when the highs wear down logic or common since prevails all book knowledge i wont dispute the line hone issue any longer i just know what i know is best for my bikes no matter what you see or read in any HD mistake laden books the best of my ability and knowledge is what my bikes get both change for the better from day to day

Pa
Actually Mike....the factory did use the reamers in production. For the times, they were more than accurate enough for the purpose. All manufactures used reamers back then, even automotive, where bushings were concerned. While working heavy industry, I used reamers while building new machinery. Machine driven shell reamers, were the normal type reamer used there. You can poke a lot of on size holes with a reamer, before the reamer dulls out. A single point tool or hone constantly needs adjusted to size. This takes time and time is money. Replacing tooling costs money as well. Your method is definitely more accurate though. You are absolutely right about highs and lows caused by hand reamers. Machine driven shell reamers put a great finish in and micing that finish will find no out of round, nor high and low, spots, while using a .001" graduated mic. It is pretty difficult to keep a hand reamer inline. Most do not use a hand reamer properly. Bushing reamer stock should be less than .015" total, before attempting to ream. A hand reamer should be pushed through the bushing before turning the reamer one full revolution. The reamer, if in a blind hole, should be pulled straight out, after turning the reamer one full revolution. In an open hole, the reamer should be removed from the handle on the other end of the bushing. If a bushing is reamed to the smallest tolerance diameter, the high and low spots will wear to the mid and upper tolerances, before the highs and lows disappear. My biggest concern with reamer use is this......Holding the centerline with them!! Reamers tend to follow the existing bore. If that bore is off center any....so is the reamer. Even a machine driven shell reamer will pull, to follow the existing bore in a bushing. A hone will only follow an existing bore as well. A hone will not make an egg shaped hole round either. A reamer and lapping tool, will make it round though. The pros and cons while building.......There are many. Line boring and line honing are the best methods, but even these methods rely on accurate bore locations. I prefer machine tooling any day for both location and line boring. Once I hit those, and have obtained the round holes, I can repeat those locations and use a hone where applicable, in order to obtain a better surface finish, again...where applicable. Pa

Pa
Thanks Steve...If I can only keep the glitches and blunders from surfacing along the way. Yeah....I believe I will pop in at Salem for a quick run through it. Pa

Pa
Reference....First three photos below......
2426-41 clutch release lever is now installed. The process to install it is not difficult. There are a couple of things to take note off when installing one. First....The 2432-41 lock washers [see first photo below] for the 2431-41 pivot screws, must be installed correctly. The lock washer has a small tap on it which seats into hole in the 2426-41 clutch release lever. The lock washer also has to wider tabs. These tabs are for locking the washer to the hex head of the 2431-41 pivot screw. Bending one, is all that is needed, to retain the pivot screw in place. Second....When installing the 2431-41 pivot screws, do not over tighten them. Over tightening will crush the thin ears of the clutch release levers walls, binding the walls of the clutch release lever, against the sprocket cover. Over tightening may also strip the threads out of it. The clutch release lever needs free movement. Tighten down the 2431- 41 pivot screws to snug, while making certain the 2432-41 lock washer’s small tab, stays put in the hole in the clutch release arm, as you tighten them down. Once you bottom the head of the 2431-41 pivot screws against the face of the 2432-41 lock washers, adjust pivot screws, in or out, until you line up one of the pivot screws hex head flats, to one of the larger tabs of the lock washers. Bend tab to lock pivot screw in place. Note.....Grease the 2431-41 pivot screw journals before installing them. Pa

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[Paps]

Since I am this far along, I went ahead and threaded the 2328-27 transmission adjusting bolt, and the 2326-41 lube filler plug, into the transmission case. See next two photos below. Pa

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Pa
I forgot to post a photo of the 2326-41 lube filler plug. Sorry about that.............

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Since this transmission will be set aside for a spell, after build is completed, I screwed the 2515-41 clutch gear nut onto the clutch gear, to protect the clutch gear thread. NOS clutch gear nuts are easy to find. NOS clutch gears are just about impossible to find. Pa

[Paps]

Since this transmission will be set aside for a spell, after build is completed, I screwed the 2515-41 clutch gear nut onto the clutch gear, to protect the clutch gear thread. NOS clutch gear nuts are easy to find. NOS clutch gears are just about impossible to find. Pa

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Brendan
Just wondering are you going to continue with the rest of the power train? Clutch, chain, sprockets rear wheel. I don't mean to be greedy. It’s just that my laptop has become one of the tools in the garage.
Brendan Pa

We will see Brendan. I started this build already in progress. I need to address the case bushings before I go on, specifically the gear shifter lever
shaft bushings and the countershaft bushing. I should address the tripper bolts as well. I had those completed before the build topic began. Once I put the top cover on this tranny, the build will end. It is my hope, other builders will join in, and explain the procedures they used. Mine are not the only means to rebuilding a 45 transmission, just my preference. The drive train involves more than just the clutch etc.... It involves the frame as well. I have a ways to go on my early type III 42wla restoration, before I can get to the drive train. I have frame work to do. Engine work to do, etc.... We have some real expert engine builders on this forum. Even my trans build has relied on many of the experts who frequent this forum. My knowledge is not only my own. It is a combination of the brilliant minds I am blessed with being associated with. My engine build will be such a build as well. Again.....my true hope.....is that my mentors will participate in the completion of the complete motorcycle. Without those mentors, my knowledge would be short of expertise. I believe this topic has brought forth comments from some of those such mentors. I have deep respect for all of them. Though I disagree with some of their procedures. The end results....both from mine....and from theirs....makes for a great running build. I tip my hat to those who have posted on this topic. I am lucky enough to know them all! For those who have remained behind the scenes.....I know you as well. My respect for you is infinite also. I won't name any names....but the most knowledgeable of builders have followed this topic. Again...I am fortunate to know them as well. I must have gotten something correct. They didn't jump in and correct me. Don't fret none though....they would have, if I had screwed up. Pa

[Paps]

Pa
As seen in the first photo below, I've temporarily installed the 0230 washers and the 2644-30 nuts on the transmission mounting studs. They won't get lost this way and they will protect the mounting stud threads.

The second photo below is the transmission as completed. The 2270-41 top cover is fake cad plated. I will be replacing it with a real cad plated one as soon as the real cad plated one is sent back to me. There is nothing much to talk about in regards to installing the top cover. I use the gasket without
sealer. I also tighten down the screws in a staggered fashion. One thing to note with the top cover.....On the shifter gear side of the cover, the raised radius covering the shifter gear, there is a small hole in the wall of the top cover. "See third photo below" This small hole is a breather hole. Make sure it is clear of any blockage. The gear lube needs to breath. The lube will foam up without a breather hole.

This completes the build of my early type III 42 WLA transmission. Pa

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[Paps]

100inchscoot
Paul i see your point about a machine ran reamer compared to a hand twisted one very nice rebuild job Paul you are considered by me a very good friend and have my utmost respect as you always have

Pa
Likewise Bro!!! And THANK YOU. I said this was going to be a sad moment when those nos parts were all used up. Now the tear in me eye is brought forth from a super FRIEND instead. I'm touched Mike. Deeply touched...... How do I spell COOL? MIKE! Pa


100incscoot
i may have missed it in the reading but in case you left out this I’ll state it after the side cover is on the trans and you know for sure it’s not coming back off till the next rebuild at the screws slots take a small center punch and stake the cover to keep the screws from backing out if what i'm saying doesn't make since i can post a pic or 2

Pa
Makes sense to me Mike. I've seen many a cover staked like that. I should have mentioned it but it plum slipped my mind. I use the removable lock tight on mine. I didn't mention that either. Please post a pic so the other viewers will know what you mean. Pictures speak a thousand words. Pa


ohio-rider
Adda boy! Great job Paul. Time for a well-deserved rest and a beverage. So when can you start on mine?
I'll be there early Sunday. Bring that puppy with ya, I'd love to see it in person. I don't get many chances to see a "CORRECT" sixty year old tranny.

Pa
Thanks Bro!!!!!! 67 years old Steve. I'll bring it along with me. See ya Sunday. Pa

Pa
Steve.....had a great time spent with ya! You and I didn't do too shabby at the meet! And......thanks for the beers!!! Made my day! The meet was the best I seen there in years. There was actually some vintage Hog parts to be had. I appreciate the comments on my early type III 42wla tranny too! We need to hook up at Wauseon! Pa

Curt
Pa That tranny is a thing of beauty. I'd marry it if she'd have me. Nice work.

Pa
Thanks Curt! She's already wed to me Bro. I'll be a ridden on her for a spell. Pa

ohio-rider
It was a good time for sure Pa. Nothing better than sipping a few beers with friends while looking thru piles of old bike parts. Ditto on it being the best local swap I’ve been to in a while. It
Congratulations again on the job you did putting that tranny together. You may be getting to ride her for a while but I have to confess that while you weren’t looking I grabbed a quick feel.

Pa
LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL

bikerider45
Thanks Pa
for the clear and useful threat on the gearbox:
I'm in the progress of rebuilding a gearbox myself and am very happy to follow your steps.
Unfortunately I have to deal with some repro parts, trying to get NOS... As possible ... almost...
Have a happy ride.
JP

Chris Haynes
Why not just ship yer stuff to PA. He has this thing nailed down now.

Pa
Negatory!!!!! Chris taught me all I know! Send them to he!!! Pa

JP
......there are a lot of good repop parts to use out there. Just inspect them all before using. On another note....inspect the nos parts as well. My bobber is a half breed Haley. She has repop and OEM nos parts in her. I found good and bad in both parts categories. Key word???? Inspect the parts! Pa

100inchscoot
do not i repeat DO NOT use repop starter gear #33380-32 old #2165-32 THEY will break in half after a few kicks and if not WILL leave you stranded broke down at the most unwanted time from failure also there’s more than one way to skin a turkey on greasing the throw out bearing if you just fill the square on it with grease you can push the grease in with your finger then fill the square again repeating it till the bearing has plenty of lube that saves and search for a syringe as Paul used sorry for the delay but here’s the pic on how the factory stakes the cover screws

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