Pa's 42WLA Build

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Sorry to jump all around in this topic but I came across the following data pics while searching for other lost files. I took the data from other oem front mudguards. That data helped me restore my front wla mudguard. Maybe some of you can use the data. Most of the data applies to civilian mudguards as well.

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On the previous image of the front mudguard the red annotation text did not show up well. Here is the image again and is included speech bubbles with letters A - F. Below the image is a guide show what the red text says.

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Front mudguard 42 WLA

A - Ammo Box Hole

B - Fender Brace Rivet

C - Front of Mudgaurd

D - Scabbard Hole

E - Blackout Lamp 1/8” Locating Stuf

F - Blackout Lamp Threaded Stud

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I had also acquired these little gems in my parts collecting. How often do you see wla nos mirror and mounting parts ? Pic is of how the parts looked when I obtained them. You will see the restored mirror as mounted on the bike later.


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If I can recall correctly, I scored this nos Cycle-Ray headlamp reflector from Fran-6, a long standing member of this forum. I also scored nos headlamp socket wiring to replace the cut off ones in the nos refector. This reflector allowed me to complete my restoration of my Cycle-Ray headlight assembly. Only the bucket of my Cycle-Ray headlamp assembly is oem. My oem bucket was tweaked out of shape but I got her back into shape with lots of patience. All the other components of the headlight are nos, including the correct glass lens with a #1 mold mark. You will see the light mounted on the bike.

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I picked this oem machinegun scabbard up along the way as well. Note U.S. Boyt 42 stamped into it. Boyt was one of several rifle scabbard manufactures for the wla. It was missing the brass tie down strap loop. I made an exact copy brass loop to replace the missing loop. Sorry no pic of my loop until you see it on the bike.


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During WWII it became necessary to reduce or eliminate radio static caused by engine interference. In the case of the WLA model motorcycle, early 42 WLA types, such as the early 42 WLA Type III, previous WLA models, and models produced up to about 1944 did not come equipped with radio suppression. 1944 produced WLA models did come equipped with the suppression systems. It became necessary to equip the vast majority of WLA models with the radio suppression systems. The suppression systems consisted of numerous part changes. Below are the parts and pics of parts which make up the wla radio suppression system.

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#1600-44 Capacitor, suppression, or spark coil ( Used after U.S.A. Reg. No. 686,726 ) (2)
( 1 used on coil, 1 used on generator )


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#39-26 Terminal, spark plug, later (2)

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#4727-44 Clip, tank to cylinder head bond wire ( Used after U.S.A Reg. No. 694,778 ) (1)

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#4702-44 Wire, bond, tank to cylinder head ( Also listed in WIRING SET HRD 4736-44 )
( Used after U.S.A. Reg. No. 694,778 ) (1)
#025 Screw, cylinder head bond wire
( Used after U.S.A. Reg. No. 694,778 )
( rd-hd., zinc pltd., carbon-S., 8-32NC x 7/16" ) (1)
#0353 Washer, lock, cylinder head bond wire screw ( Used after U.S.A. Reg. No. 694,778 )
( External-Internal teeth, shakeproof, carbon-S., 11/64" x 1/2" ) (4)

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#1600-42M Suppressor, spark plug (2)

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#1613-30 Wire, shielded, timer (1)

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# I do not know.... coil strap for radio suppression (1) possibly already welded to coil.

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#1743-42M Wire, spark coil & crankcase (1)

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The #4702-44 bond strap attaches to the front cylinder head on the rear right side outer cooling fin. The other end of the strap attaches to the oil tanks return oil fitting threaded stud.

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Earlier wla’s such as mine did not have that type of oil tank return oil fitting with a threaded stud.

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If you reference the 4702-44 instruction tag pic shown previously, It would be at the discretion of the motor pool personal to determine how they would fit the bond strap up to the earlier produced WLA models. The factory did not provide any particular instruction for the adaptation of the bonding strap. One can only guess the ways in which motor pool personal conceived ways in which to adapt the bonding strap. Did some personel weld a stud to the oil tank fitting ? Did some clamp the bond strap to the oil line ? Did some change out the complete oil tank to a later oil tank ? There are many ways the bonding strap could have been adapted. None of those ways would be incorrect as long as the adaptations worked properly. My oil tank just happens to be an earlier produced NOS OEM oil tank. I did not want my adaptation for the bonding strap to look 1⁄2 ass, nor did I want to modify my oil tank fitting to incorporate a bonding strap stud. Shown below is what I came up with in order to adapt the bonding strap to my 42 WLA early Type III model. My adapter is a clamping method which clamps to the tank fitting, permits installation of the oil line fitting to the tank fitting, and permits attachment of the bonding strap.

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Here are my restored fuel and oil tanks. Please excuse the poor photo quality. They look nothing like these pics to the naked eye.

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45Brit: Really satisfying though, when you get beaten-up old tins like that back into usable condition.
The tanks and front mudguard for my 45 project ( the one with the Shovelhead forks ) will be a LOT of work, but OEM parts... Even for a bike which is very non-standard, but has as many HD parts as I can find and fit in.
Satisfying indeed Bro. I've never been a sheet metal person, hating body work the most. But once one takes the time and patience to hit the goal, satisfying is truly the reward.

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With blackout lighting incorporated onto a wla during ww2, the 4760-44A magnetic generator field switch was added. Below pictured is my nos magnetic generator field switch and the instructions that came with it. Note how this nos kit came with all the mounting hardware.

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And while I fussed with just about everything in this build I decided to restore my blackout headlight. I took these dimensions because I take dimensions on just about everything. Hope someone can use these dimensions.


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Walking and chewing gum at the same time is not one of my standard efficient traits, however, I did much of that while bouncing around parts restoring and researching. My luggage rack shown below before restoration had its issues. Aside from being dinged up and bent, someone in the past had added, what I think was, foot peg brackets. To add the brackets, they drilled additional holes in each of the lower luggage rack mounting braces. I removed those brackets and filled the additional holes. The main mounting holes of the luggage rack were oversize from use so I filled them as well and re-drilled them to correct size and correct location. I made two rivets to replace the original ones where two bolts were now found in the triangular lower mounting braces. I finished the cosmetics and mounted it to the bike. I did not restore it to perfection or an appearance as new. I wanted to leave signs all over the bike of its actual use and character. Though finishes all over the bike such as reparkerizing, cad plating, paint, etc., stand the bike out to the eyes, a dozen rides will remove that kind of new look in those areas and patina will take the new looks place very quickly. Again no restored pics until you see it mounted on the bike.


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Sometime in this bike build, I met up with my friend Tom Faber, also a member on this forum, at Wauseon, Ohio AMCA swapmeet so Tom could take a look at my bent up and dinged badly handlebars. Tom Faber is the best I know in handlebar repairing. Tom looked my bars over and said no problem. Tom resurrected my handlebars to perfection. Below you will see my handlebars after restoring with a fresh coat of paint. I also routed the timer cable, throttle cable, wiring, horn and light switches, and installed the grips.


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The rear tail light wiring harness was a trip to figure out. It took me a while but I found what I was looking for. I put together the info I sought and found for those who may have the same questions in the future on their WLA model 45's. The pics below hold the answers. What made this a bit of a task was the wiring harness male terminal plug for the left rear light assembly. The teats on the terminal body are equal, not offset as these types of terminal usually are. The female socket slots in the lamp housing are equal as well. In other words, one can install the wiring harness male terminal into the left side female socket lamp body two different ways, making the harness color coding useless since the wires do not enter the terminal horizontally in line with the teats which make contact with the bulbs two contact points. Having the correct military service manual on hand helped a bunch to boot.
As for the lower bulb in the left rear lamp assembly, It is a spare as noted in the pics below.


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