'27 JD Cut Down Project - SWAN

[Steve Swan]

Eric, it is great to hear from you. Thank you for your kind words. Every issue i run into with Cranky Frank is a new learning curve that continually leaves me feeling like an amateur. i am pleased to say the linkage for the front brake is working very well. The stopping ability of the 6" front brake is not quite twice as much as the factory rear brake. Between the two, i have all the stopping ability i need to feel confident i can stop when i need to.

[exeric]

Your research is going to benefit many other JD owners, Steve. Great pictures, and text as usual from you. By the way, how is the front brake working out?

[Steve Swan]

Frank's "control center."

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[Steve Swan]

a tech tidbit on using Ed Fralick's EBeyond 2000 electronic ignition. not knowing any different, the Replicant 0.9 ohm coil i was running burned out the sensor. Ed very graciously replaced the sensor for free despite my protestation; Ed is a gentleman. The Ebeyond is compatible with coils that spec 1.3 - 3.0 ohms. Ed told me coils that are above 3 ohms result in high speed miss and as you already know, less than 1.3 ohms burns the sensor out. Bob Gamache turned me on to a $25 dual wire 1.4 ohm coil. So i made up a bracket to mount everything in place, all fits nicely. With Mick King's help, i order a Tri-Spark coil from Australia, it is 1.5 ohms, when it arrives, will fit it with condenser in a repro factory case. Also, i forgot to mention thatproiior to frying teh snesor, i took frank out for his first 40 mile test ride which was flawless. The 17t engine sprocket with 41t rea wheel sprocket makes ol' Frank fly! hope to go out for a 2nd test run very soon!

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[Steve Swan]

Frank lives

back and forth between full advance and full retard
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-sm4Ti_gXk&t=4s

full retard
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l6Rk429NUs

full advance
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM5p4EbVpOs

[Steve Swan]

It still looks good Steve.

Any idea how long it will take for the cable to arrive?

John

Gave the measurement for the cable to Janus today, sounds like at least 2 weeks before he gets to it, so might be as long a a month. i wired the stop light earlier today, so all that's left now is wiring the speedometer lamp once i have the cable to attach the lamp to. i'm waiting for an air filter to arrive. once i have the air filter, there's no reason not to start it. Doubt i can let waiting for a speedometer cable another month hold me up from riding until then...

[TechNoir]

It still looks good Steve.

Any idea how long it will take for the cable to arrive?

John

[Steve Swan]

not much progress to see here unless you look closely, spent a few hours last evening getting the speedo parts on the bike, the J-M speedo is on the tank as well as the related parts on the rear of the bike. all that remains before i go for the very first start up is to get the speedo cable installed (waiting for it), and also get speedo lamp and brake light wired. the MEK smell is almost gone out of main gas tank, been off-gassing for one month now. my nose doesn't smell MEK in the reserve and oil tanks. kind of kicking myself for not installing a sealed main shaft drive ball bearing instead of going with original roller setup, not exactly loving that aluminum pan underneath.....

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[aumick10]

For larger openings, I like using expandable tapered plugs. They are available in a large range of sizes.

[Peter Cooke]

Excellent, thank you Steve.

[Steve Swan]

i have a pair of square headed brass plugs, plumbing i believe they were. they don't have a taper in them, i can't remember what i did to get rid of the taper, they are straight now. i seem to recall i ran a straight die over them so they would thread the full distance of the holes. the threads don't get goo in them. also i use those mult-colored plastic female vacuum plugs you can buy assorted sizes at the auto parts store, i push an over-size plug in the threaded hole, those usually work pretty good to keep goo out also.

[Peter Cooke]

Lookin good Steve,
Just wondering what you used to block the fuel outlet holes in your tank prior to applying Red-Kote? Or do you just tape them over on the outside and then clean the threads later?

[Steve Swan]

So, Frank is all but finished. He has spark, lights and HORN. Actually, could be started, but i applied a 3rd coat of Red-Kote two weeks ago this coming Sunday. As it is still out-gassing, i want the liner to no longer smell of MEK before i put oil and gas in the tanks; probably take a couple more weeks and as i have a sample of Red-Kote i peeled from the plastic funnel, i can pretty much monitor the sample getting less and less supple. It's hard to not get buck fever, but i am not going to rush the Red-Kote from curing. I am really looking forward to how the engine runs with George's offset inlet levers/housings along with the domed pistons as i envision those Carrillo's going up and down in their elliptical travel as the T&O flywheels go 'round and 'round.

i love the pics of the two L.A. copper's on their bikes, not only do they have a rear wheel siren, they also have a horn somewhat more dainty to Frank's. None the less, those fella's are still long 'uns.

The last thing will be to get the Johns-Manville speedo-meter on Frank. Canadian mail delivery has all but come to a standstill, Janus Napierala has everything Corbin that goes from the speedometer to the rear wheel ready to send me, it's been 2 weeks since i mailed him my check, he said he is just now getting mail that was sent to him the early part of March... Once i get the parts from him, then i can measure the length the cable needs to be and he'll make up one end to fit the Corbin angle drive and the other end to fit the head on the Johns-Manville speedometer.

[TechNoir]

Hi Steve, the bike looks all the better for being non-original, I love the headlight and the horn.

Your comments re the speedo got me thinking and I did a bit of googling and noticed this one that sold earlier today on UK ebay. Its in terrible condition and the price is up there with a Bonniksen.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-V...p2047675.l2557

So you might have $21k in the bike but that includes at least $1,400 of speedo.

John

[Steve Swan]

if everything goes according to Hoyle, i'll get in all the test riding (and more) that is necessary before this coming winter when i dismantle it all and go for 2nd build, final paint and miscellaneous finishes, etc, much of which will be Parkerized. i've been using as many left over fasteners from my restored '27 build, otherwise have been running to the hardware store to get the rest, so ultimately will have a mix of brass and stainless fasteners. i plan to Parkerize parts like fender stay-rods, once it's together after 2nd build if i decide to nickle plate any parts, i will. Right now, i'm just trying to keep my costs down, i have roughly $21k in this project which i don't think is bad at all considering the goodies inside the engine. Depending on camera angle that headlight can look, shall i say, pretty pronounced. in the flesh, it really is not as huge as pictures make it look, especially sitting on the bike. i really like the Warner-Lenz, "176 lenses in one" lens, it is just flat out cool. with the newly nickled reflector and the LED bulb, it casts a briliant beam. i am also running LED's in tail, brake and speedo lamps; between the 4 LED bulbs, there is less than a 2 amp draw, the generator will appreciate that! The horn.... is another matter, there is no hiding it, but i love tooting it! AS much as it is out of my comfort zone to deviate from factory original, the overall look has really grown on me, albeit i realize it likely is perhaps shocking to others.

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