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48 Chief Build in Eastern WA

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  • 48 Chief Build in Eastern WA

    Have been a member of AMCA for awhile but never posted anything about the 2 bikes that I'm attempting to build. The 5 pictures here are the 48 Chief I'm putting together. I have more that the 5 pictures to post than this forum will allow. Is it possible to post more than 5 pics on the same thread? I've done assembly and disassembly more times than I remember. I've got a couple of small issues to address then I'll be ready for paint. Thought that I was ready for paint months ago, but details kept coming wo that need fixing. I'm also working on a 47 Chief. I need to pull the motor from the frame, but am having a hard time getting a bit of help to remove it. If there are any Eastern Washington State members who have some time to help, it woiuld be greatly appreciated.
    I'd like to try to have the 47 motor in the Southern California area in the next week or so, for tear down and rebuild. I'll post another thread with pics of the 47. Thanks
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Your projects look awesome!

    I had my wife help me remove the engine/gearbox the first time. We got it out with no damage, but only set it softly onto the floor. She said "never again....I almost dropped it!" Can't you find a local teen to help? Only takes a few minutes....and that's often the limit of their attention spans!
    Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

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    • #3
      Thanks for your reply and comment. John Bivens built that motor.
      I know it's a quick task. I get the courtesy "I'll give you a hand with that after work" but it doesn't happen. No worries, I'll get it out if I have to remove the heads and lay the frame on its side to get it out. That's the problem with being retired. Lots of time on my hands for project work while everyone else's day is tied up at work.

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      • #4
        I often have had the same problem with engines. I can get another person but not at the time of my choosing. I solved this by using a fold up engine cherry picker that I already had. I welded a 14" extension to the sliding portion of the boom to keep the stabilizer legs from getting in the way. I added some weight to the back to counterbalance it. The other mod I did was to machine the slotted release valve on the hyd cylinder so I could put a gate valve wheel like you have on an outdoor spigot. That allows better metering control when you are lowering. As I've gotten older I seem to be using this contraption more & more for all kinds of jobs.

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        • #5
          No worries. I got that motor out and ready for transport. Thanks for the cherry picker idea.

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          • #6
            Glad to hear it went well, you've got two sweet Chiefs. John Bivens helped me with my '48 Chief and is now in the process of rebuilding my '42 Chief. Your bike parts (what ever is being sent to So Cal) are in good hands with John.
            AMCA # 3233

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            • #7
              Do doubt there. John is top notch, a real artist in what he does. He’s done a lot of work for me over the years

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gkpjxb View Post
                The 5 pictures here are the 48 Chief I'm putting together. I have more that the 5 pictures to post than this forum will allow. Is it possible to post more than 5 pics on the same thread?
                It may be best to break up your posts to your original thread and provide commentary it also then allows for more comments and reaction for a smaller grouping of photos. Looking forward o more posts.

                Mike Love
                AMCA Forum
                Moderator

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                • #9
                  Would appreciate a bit of wire wire routing guidance.
                  Have all the sheet metal prepped for paint. Want to have all the new wiring in place especially at the ignition switch before painting the fuel tanks. Don't want to attach and remove the painted tanks multiple times to get the wiring correct in that small cavity between the tanks. Was hoping for a few helpful pics and guidance concerning the 4 wires exiting the bottom of the handle bars. Should all 4 of these wires be slipped thru a short piece of that 5/16" black wire cover, to a point at just to the top of the frame headstock? Also, the 2 wires that attach to the horn terminals, also exiting the handlebars, along with the fender lamp wire. Should these 3 wires be fitted through another piece of wire cover as they're routed thru the girder fork shock spring area?
                  Thanks for any assistance.
                  Last edited by gkpjxb; 12-13-2018, 11:48 AM.

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                  • #10
                    This might help

                    https://www.kiwiindian.com/index.php...rence-pictures

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by gkpjxb View Post
                      Would appreciate a bit of wire wire routing guidance.
                      Have all the sheet metal prepped for paint. Want to have all the new wiring in place especially at the ignition switch before painting the fuel tanks. Don't want to attach and remove the painted tanks multiple times to get the wiring correct in that small cavity between the tanks. Was hoping for a few helpful pics and guidance concerning the 4 wires exiting the bottom of the handle bars. Should all 4 of these wires be slipped thru a short piece of that 5/16" black wire cover, to a point at just to the top of the frame headstock? Also, the 2 wires that attach to the horn terminals, also exiting the handlebars, along with the fender lamp wire. Should these 3 wires be fitted through another piece of wire cover as they're routed thru the girder fork shock spring area?
                      Thanks for any assistance.
                      As far as I've looked the sleeve comes from the bars down to the instrument cover and then uses another cover to the front end from there. Horn wire goes towards ign. switch and then down frame to horn and no cover.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the link. Yes is is helpful.

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                        • #13
                          Ok. Thanks for the guidance.

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