32 VL Build

[no6]

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/Aj33Cy.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...924/f5WeEC.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...924/lH1Dio.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/UkTyG7.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/CFRErl.jpg

Got this probably from one of you guys off of flea-bay, the pictures speak for themselves. I bought the repair piece off of Rat from Harbor Vintage.

[no6]

Well the last couple days I have been working on the cases, the main bushing was worn so I replaced it. As you can see it is pinned half way on the bushing and half way on the case to keep it from spinning I guess. I didn't know if I could hit the same hole in the case so I drilled another one. My cases were really nice and the numbers match, I had originally glass beaded the outer cam case and hind sight being 20-20 I wished I never did, I should have kept the original patina but hey...to late.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...924/lV1gKr.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/GLEmqh.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...924/a8QA3n.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/jCk3Pe.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...923/ge5DST.jpg

I decided to use Glyptol to coat the inside of the case and cam chest, I did some research on it and there are pro's and con's, it looks cool but you will never see it when it is all together.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...923/SjJVnU.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/Djv2dg.jpg

[no6]

I cleaned out the oil pump and thank goodness everything is there, I would hate to have to find parts for this puppy.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/02i7Yp.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/yxVYpY.jpg

You can see the three holes where the springs and cylinders go in, once it is installed in the body the plug goes in the end.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...924/1sdEXY.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...922/ZChdLP.jpg

The plungers go on top of the springs then it is slid into the body and the plug screwed in, there is a very tiny hole that oils the back of the rotating cylinder where it rides on the plug.

The plungers go on top of the springs then it is slid into the body and the plug screwed in, there is a very tiny hole that oils the back of the rotating cylinder where it rides on the plug.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800...924/GzVAm3.jpg

I have the jugs at the machine shop getting bored and a sleeve and valve job, I need some gaskets and a shaft and I can start putting this together.
I got ripped off on flea bay... say it ain't so...I bought a NOS rod shaft, original box and correct number, only problem is it is .005 under. I should have mic'd it when I got it but I probably would not have gotten my money back anyways and when you ask them they know nothing. Except a real famous guy in the antique motorcycle world, he had a NOS "VL" pinion and sprocket shaft on flea bay, when I asked him how he knew his answer was "I just know" when I matched it up with my original to his and checked his against other ones, his fit an RL, the keys are 180* apart. I asked him about that and wouldn't it through the timing off 180*, no answer.

[no6]

So it took less than an hour to replace the rollers in my lifters, I just used a drill bit the same size as the shaft and drilled one of the peened ends and knocked it out with a punch. Drive the new pin home after you put in the new roller in of course and I used a large punch with a 45* (why don't they make a degree symbol on the computer) tip and then peened it down with the hammer and used a chisel and wacked each end as was done by the factory. The lifter boss on both sides is chamfered so when you peen it down it mushrooms down in and won't/can't come out, simple as pie.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/pgSZwd.jpg

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...922/zGDNKw.jpg

Oh, I painted the oil pump.

[no6]

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...924/IUL3Bz.jpg

What do you all think, should I replace these lifter adjusters or grind them down? I think I am out of hardness.

[no6]

Well this took a long time to bring all of this over from Classic Iron Forum, next I will work on being able to post the pictures so you don't have to click on the link. Be back soon.....

[no6]

I need to figure how to bring pictures over from Image Shack or from my computer.

OK I think I got it, I need to change it to HTDML and copy and paste.
This is the stuff I use after I sandblast a part, it keeps the part from rusting, it can sit in the garage for years and be handled as much as you want and wont rust. It neutralizes the rust that you don't remove while blasting and turns it black. It is also a phosphorus coating that helps with paint adhesion. I love this stuff, it goes a very long way and what you don't use you can put back in the jug. This stuff is actually to good to be true, I have been using it for years with no problems. No, I don't have stock in it.

[sny]

Well this took a long time to bring all of this over from Classic Iron Forum, next I will work on being able to post the pictures so you don't have to click on the link. Be back soon.....

Hey thanks for posting! Great to see your progress

[no6]

Hey thanks for posting! Great to see your progress

Thank you, it's going to be tough to keep two forums going but I can reach more people that way and hopefully get the help I need and others will learn as well.

[kval]

where do you get this product, I could use it so save cleaned items until I get to paint them

[WebKahuna]

where do you get this product, I could use it so save cleaned items until I get to paint them

I think this might be it
http://lightningstrip.us/rust.htm

[no6]

I think this might be it
http://lightningstrip.us/rust.htm

That is the place, it used to be Berts Lightning remover. When I sand blast or glass bead I apply it, it dry's depending on the temperature and humidity, I will wipe off the excess and when it dry's it is a light gray, it's amazing sometimes the little black specks you see, rust you missed but it is neutralized. You can handle it all you want without gloves, it does not rust. Depending on how much was put on you may see some white powder or excess black, I always sand or wire brush the residue off before body work or DP primer. I have never had a problem with it. Only one time did it rust, I sandblasted a Model A deck lid, treated it and a year or two later took it to the Carlisle flea market to sell, it laid out in the rain then it did rust.

[no6]

As promised an advertisement if they did a good job, Colorado Plating, $150 with shipping, super nice job and very nice people to deal with.



I put the distributor together, make sure that you take pictures before you take it apart because you can put it together different ways and that will change the timing.

OK, I'm done for now I have to pack for Sturgis!!

[no6]

Update: I'm getting everything that gets black ready to paint, hope to get it painted this week. My cylinders are at the machine shop getting a sleeve, I used a Case 152 tractor sleeve, it needs shortened but it is almost stock bore. All of the threads are bad and Harley used a 7/6 x 16 TPI bolt, a kit to do them is $190, no way am I paying that. What my machinist does is use a cast iron pipe plug, drills the hole then threads it and puts the plug in, mills it flush and re threads it, he has been doing that for years, I got him a tap on Amazon. WHAT HAPPENED TO MY PICTURES?

[AdvenJack]

no6,

Any chance we can hear how your work is coming