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'47 Chief- finally starting the build

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  • #16
    Originally posted by tomfiii View Post
    Check tabs to transmission and trans gear clearance with chain on! May have to shift fender and recontour edge of chain guard to fender.
    Great advice, but I only have the empty cases. I've been looking through the left side of the case to see if the area for the gear/chain looks centered. The tab to trans stud does fit and I can adjust it up and down.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by pisten-bully View Post
      Terry, I think you can get that chainguard a bit better, might be tied into the way you've mounted the fender to the tabs at the battery tray? My rear fender is to the rear of the tabs, and the red one here (picture I took at an AMCA meet) is the same way... doesn't mean it's correct I guess!

      (BTW... yesterday was a 100 mile ride and I live on dirt and ride a lot of dirt roads are around here... haven't cleaned off my bike!)

      You're going to like the one piece exhaust I think!
      Thanks for pictures Harry. I read some other posts about the fender going behind the tabs and I did start there, but the chain guard is short to the fender so I wanted to move the fender forward. With it over the tabs the rest of the original holes in the fender also line up better, but not factor at this point, figured the hole placement will need to be adjusted.

      The chain guard is still short so I'm thinking it will need some metal added to fit the curve to the fender, so I could move the fender back behind the tabs if that is the correct or best position.

      Can't wait to get to the point where I can get my bike dirty!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by tomfiii View Post
        Check tabs to transmission and trans gear clearance with chain on! May have to shift fender and recontour edge of chain guard to fender.
        Making some progress, shaped the guard to fit the contour of the fender and also took Toms advice and got a drive sprocket to check clearance. The drive spoken I have for fitting the guard is a 26 tooth and I don't have a chain yet.
        I plan on using a 23 tooth sprocket, which should allow about .20" more clearence then the 26.

        How much extra clearence should I allow for the chain between the bottom of the sprocket and the chain guard?

        And how much, if any, space should there between the edge of the guard to the fender?

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        • #19
          Terry, I think you can get that chainguard a bit better, might be tied into the way you've mounted the fender to the tabs at the battery tray? My rear fender is to the rear of the tabs, and the red one here (picture I took at an AMCA meet) is the same way... doesn't mean it's correct I guess! ~ Pisten-Bully

          What you're showing is correct. The fender goes on the rear side of the mounting tab. Moving it will also align his chain guard to the fender better.

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          • #20
            Back at it!

            It's been a while since I've felt like I've made much progress, but now I'm back on track.
            Picked up my rebulit motor before the holidays and I'm really pleased with the end result. Sounded great on the test stand. Getting it in the frame wasn't easy, but followed alot of the advice on this site, and after some cursing and hearing my Dad ask several times " are you sure you don't need to remove the heads?" it went in as it should.

            Just picked up the rebulit tanks, re-plated shifter and the sheet metal is cleaned and welded up. The exhaust plating should be done early next week.

            Spent today doing a final assembly to recheck the fit before paint and the only thing that needs some adjustment is the chain guard tab.
            Tomorrow will be disaasembly and then off to a buddys body shop for paint.

            I made a list of everything I need to complete the resto, and I was surprised at how many parts I still need. Over a 120 items. Some are small, but there are some big ticket and hard to find items like the front & rear crash bars, horn, headlight, seat and quite a few $100+ items.
            Not complaining, was just thought I was closer then that.

            IMG_0976.jpgIMG_0986.jpgIMG_0988.jpgIMG_1020.jpgIMG_1023.jpg

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            • #21
              Looks like she coming along nicely. I feel your pain about finishing it. It's really starting to look like a bike and you're itching to fire it up and ride. It always seems like there one more detail to take care of. The frustration will only get worse when you get some paint on it.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by TH47Indy View Post
                I made a list of everything I need to complete the resto, and I was surprised at how many parts I still need. Over a 120 items. Some are small, but there are some big ticket and hard to find items like the front & rear crash bars, horn, headlight, seat and quite a few $100+ items.
                Not complaining, was just thought I was closer then that.
                It's looking good Terry!

                Those lists of missing parts are tough to look at sometimes! I restored a car years ago and one of the vendors selling parts had a program where every dollar you spent was kept track of by them, and then they'd give you a credit towards another purchase based on how much you spent in the past... smart guys as it kept me buying from them and somewhat eased the pain of having to keep going back to them for more parts!
                Last edited by pisten-bully; 03-05-2018, 11:06 AM.
                Pisten Bully is Harry Roberts in Vermont.

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                • #23
                  Thanks guys. The hours I've spent on this site reading old Indian posts and being able to ask questions really provide some great tips and advice.

                  Really looking forward to being able to ride it, and I know there always be some tinkering to do on it but I'm also going to miss the search and build process. Already thinking about the next project.

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