I've made a bolt on hard tail for my bike and I've sprayed Gibbs on that untill I strip it down for paint and I think it's really good stuff.
A mate recomended it to me, I sign wrote his old Studebaker which he had sprayed gibbs on that and it still looks pretty good.
I suppose it's down to what look your after.new pipes.jpgMellies stude.jpg
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1920 Harley Model F
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Thanks Tony. I did consider getting some Gibbs but I read somewhere that it leaves surfaces dry (which is good) but slippery (which is not so good).Originally posted by kiwi tibbs View PostHi John,
this is a great thread, not sure if you've sust the rust prevention issue but this stuff is good.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]16797[/ATTACH]
I think I got it from Fareham, I've got a card somewhere at home.
Take care
Tony
I want something that does not change the look of the rusty patina too much. You have used Gibbs, what do you think, is it worth me buying a can to try?
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Hi John,
this is a great thread, not sure if you've sust the rust prevention issue but this stuff is good.
GIBBS.jpg
I think I got it from Fareham, I've got a card somewhere at home.
Take care
Tony
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James, thanks for the pictures, they are very clear.Originally posted by 26harleyj View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]16795[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]16796[/ATTACH]
Hi John,
I have attached photos of a jig which I made for my front forks to compress the springs enough to then allow me to screw the caps on. Hopefully the images comes out ok.
Thanks,
James
I had pondered on using something like a car coil spring compressor but your setup is much better. If you don't mind I will copy it.
I have a bit of time to sort it out because it looks like I need to change the bottom cone and I am still waiting for new spokes to arrive.
Thanks.
John
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Mark, thanks for the tip. I did google Jim Denney but couldn't find him. If you could speak to him and pass on my details it would be much appreciated.Originally posted by MMasa View PostI think that Jim Denney in New York State did a run of them recently.
I would trust ANYTHING that Jim makes to be of the highest possible quality.
I'll try to remember to call him tomorrow and ask.
Mark
John
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20151208_135036.jpg 20160128_112450.jpg
Hi John,
I have attached photos of a jig which I made for my front forks to compress the springs enough to then allow me to screw the caps on. Hopefully the images comes out ok.
Thanks,
James
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I think that Jim Denney in New York State did a run of them recently.
I would trust ANYTHING that Jim makes to be of the highest possible quality.
I'll try to remember to call him tomorrow and ask.
Mark
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Re: 1920 Harley Model F
Thanks Eric. I didn’t want to start using brute force if there was a better way. I will up my game a bit and get them together.
That diagram is great. What book is it from?
I did check my copy of Modern Motorcycle Mechanics but it does not have much info on forks.
John
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Re: 1920 Harley Model F
Thanks Mark. I got the bearings from Competition Distributing and the bottom cone was marked like this:Originally posted by MMasa View PostFirst off, the lower race that you got is incorrect. It's an earlier style. Will it work? It depends on if it is actually heat treated correctly.
Mark

Is there another supplier for the bottom cone?
Thanks. It made sense to assemble them like that but I just needed to check that I wasnt having a blonde moment.Originally posted by MMasa View PostYour order of assembly is correct on the forks.
Mark
The bike came with 2 sets of long springs 3 were the same length and the fourth was about 1/8" shorter. I used the best 2 of equal length, they are 17 1/8 inches long.Originally posted by MMasa View PostWhere did you get the springs and how long are they? Often, the springs that are supplied are the longest style as used on later models and need to be cut to length.
Mark
The short springs came with the bike also and are 8 7/8 inches long.
I am pretty sure that the short springs and one set of long springs are original to the bike. The guy who dismantled it before I got it has saved everything else so I doubt he would have tossed the fork springs.
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First off, the lower race that you got is incorrect. It's an earlier style. Will it work? It depends on if it is actually heat treated correctly.
Your order of assembly is correct on the forks. Where did you get the springs and how long are they? Often, the springs that are supplied are the longest style as used on later models and need to be cut to length.
Mark
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Re: 1920 Harley Model F
I have another couple of questions about the forks.
I have 2 long springs and 2 short springs plus 2 rods that look like long nails and a pair of caps.
I assume that the long springs go in the forks first. Then the forks slide onto the fork spring plungers and then the short springs go above the spring plungers then the rods and finally the caps are screwed on.
I assume that the long part of the fork spring plunger faces down towards the long spring?
Now, assuming I have the above bits correct. How do you safely compress the springs to get the caps on?
I have tried a ratchet strap but I am not going to get anywhere near. The load that I need to apply to the springs seems very high. I assume that there is a technique for doing this, can anyone provide any guidance?


Thanks again,
John.
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Re: 1920 Harley Model F
Tinkering with the bike this morning I am trying to figure out both how the forks go together and if I have all of the parts.
I have a question, it is not critical but I would like to get it correct. Which side does the left hand thread go when fitting the fork spring plungers and coupling stud? At the moment I have the right hand thread on the right side.

Thanks
John
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Thanks Bob, its done now so I can get on with working out how the forks fit together. See below.Originally posted by Robert Luland View PostJust drill a hole a thousandth under and press a dowel pin in and be done with it. Lonnie has never been great about covering all the bases. Bob L
John
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Just drill a hole a thousandth under and press a dowel pin in and be done with it. Lonnie has never been great about covering all the bases. Bob L
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