1920 Harley Model F

[MMasa]

First off, the lower race that you got is incorrect. It's an earlier style. Will it work? It depends on if it is actually heat treated correctly.
Your order of assembly is correct on the forks. Where did you get the springs and how long are they? Often, the springs that are supplied are the longest style as used on later models and need to be cut to length.
Mark

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 Harley Model F

First off, the lower race that you got is incorrect. It's an earlier style. Will it work? It depends on if it is actually heat treated correctly.
Mark

Thanks Mark. I got the bearings from Competition Distributing and the bottom cone was marked like this:



Is there another supplier for the bottom cone?

Your order of assembly is correct on the forks.
Mark

Thanks. It made sense to assemble them like that but I just needed to check that I wasnt having a blonde moment.

Where did you get the springs and how long are they? Often, the springs that are supplied are the longest style as used on later models and need to be cut to length.
Mark

The bike came with 2 sets of long springs 3 were the same length and the fourth was about 1/8" shorter. I used the best 2 of equal length, they are 17 1/8 inches long.

The short springs came with the bike also and are 8 7/8 inches long.

I am pretty sure that the short springs and one set of long springs are original to the bike. The guy who dismantled it before I got it has saved everything else so I doubt he would have tossed the fork springs.

[exeric]

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 Harley Model F

Thanks Eric. I didn’t want to start using brute force if there was a better way. I will up my game a bit and get them together.

That diagram is great. What book is it from?

I did check my copy of Modern Motorcycle Mechanics but it does not have much info on forks.

John

[MMasa]

I think that Jim Denney in New York State did a run of them recently.
I would trust ANYTHING that Jim makes to be of the highest possible quality.
I'll try to remember to call him tomorrow and ask.
Mark

[26harleyj]

20151208_135036.jpg 20160128_112450.jpg

Hi John,

I have attached photos of a jig which I made for my front forks to compress the springs enough to then allow me to screw the caps on. Hopefully the images comes out ok.

Thanks,
James

[TechNoir]

I think that Jim Denney in New York State did a run of them recently.
I would trust ANYTHING that Jim makes to be of the highest possible quality.
I'll try to remember to call him tomorrow and ask.
Mark

Mark, thanks for the tip. I did google Jim Denney but couldn't find him. If you could speak to him and pass on my details it would be much appreciated.

John

[TechNoir]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]16795[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]16796[/ATTACH]

Hi John,

I have attached photos of a jig which I made for my front forks to compress the springs enough to then allow me to screw the caps on. Hopefully the images comes out ok.

Thanks,
James

James, thanks for the pictures, they are very clear.

I had pondered on using something like a car coil spring compressor but your setup is much better. If you don't mind I will copy it.

I have a bit of time to sort it out because it looks like I need to change the bottom cone and I am still waiting for new spokes to arrive.

Thanks.

John

[kiwi tibbs]

Hi John,

this is a great thread, not sure if you've sust the rust prevention issue but this stuff is good.
GIBBS.jpg
I think I got it from Fareham, I've got a card somewhere at home.
Take care
Tony

[TechNoir]

Hi John,

this is a great thread, not sure if you've sust the rust prevention issue but this stuff is good.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]16797[/ATTACH]
I think I got it from Fareham, I've got a card somewhere at home.
Take care
Tony

Thanks Tony. I did consider getting some Gibbs but I read somewhere that it leaves surfaces dry (which is good) but slippery (which is not so good).

I want something that does not change the look of the rusty patina too much. You have used Gibbs, what do you think, is it worth me buying a can to try?

[kiwi tibbs]

I've made a bolt on hard tail for my bike and I've sprayed Gibbs on that untill I strip it down for paint and I think it's really good stuff.
A mate recomended it to me, I sign wrote his old Studebaker which he had sprayed gibbs on that and it still looks pretty good.
I suppose it's down to what look your after.new pipes.jpgMellies stude.jpg

[TechNoir]

Thanks James. I think Gibbs gives a similar finish to Owatrol/Penetrol. It is certainly a great rust stabiliser and preventer but a bit shiny for what I am aiming for. I am going to start with paste wax and see how it fares. If, at a later date, I decide I need better protection but not paint I will then compare Owatrol and Gibbs.

I have certainly ruled out ACF50 and FluidFilm.

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 Harley Model F

OK, here is a status update re the steering head cup and cone bearings.

Mark Masa, in post #31 of this thread, pointed out that the new bottom cone that I have been supplied with is incorrect. I have no doubt that he is correct, Mark seems to be a walking Harley Davidson J and JD encyclopedia.

Mark mentioned someone called Jim Denney in New York State who might have some but I have drawn a blank on tracking Jim down.

So I have made some enquiries in other directions.

First I have spoken to some suppliers who advertise J & JD parts and state on their website that they stock 1920 cups and cones.

Geloman in Germany say that they don’t have this size.

Antique Motorcycle Parts in Sweden say that they don’t stock them any more because the ones that they bought in were poor quality. They did say that they are planning on having them manufactured themselves but it wont be until late 2016.

Replicant Metals list them as items that they plan to make some time in the future. I have sent them an email asking when they plan to make them.

Meanwhile I have made enquiries here in the UK with a bespoke bearing manufacturer to see how feasible/affordable it would be to get a batch done myself.

I will update when I know some more.

John

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 Harley Model F

Update on bottom cone.

I am still trying to see if it is feasible to get some made myself. I need to cad up a sketch and send it to the company I am talking to so that they can give me an idea of cost.

However I hope that I don’t need to get them made myself because:

Tom Feeser from Replicant Metals has got back to me and in summary his cups and cones are currently at the machine shop then when completed sometime in March they next go to be hardened, then to finishing shop to have oven scale blasted clean then on to platers for finish. He expects them to be ready in about June.

I have asked him if he could confirm the size of the bottom cone but unfortunately he cant until they get back to him once they are finished.

So, if they turn out to be the right ones then I will get some from Tom.

if they are not the right ones then I guess I will look at doing them myself.

Unless of course anyone knows of another source for these items?

John

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 Harley Model F

Hello guys, I spent some time looking at the forks this morning.

First I did something which I had neglected to do previously which was check them to see if they were straight. They were not too bad although they do (did now) have a slight twist in them. I clamped them to my bench and straightened them. It was not much but I figured that they need doing now.



The bike used to have a sidecar attached. I wondered if a sidecar might tend to exert a twisting force on a bike that might, over time, put a slight twist in the forks or frame? (My frame is ok)



Then I made a fork spring compressor. A big thanks to 26harleyj for showing me his and allowing me to copy it. I did not have any suitable pipe for the bottom plate so I found some 6mm (1/4") plate and bent it into a suitable shape. It seems to work great but I have a question.












I compressed the springs until I started to feel a large increase in the force needed to screw the nuts onto the studding and stopped because I don’t want to apply too much force to the forks if I don’t need to. However when I put the small springs into the top of the forks it was obvious that I was no where near the point that I could get the caps on top of the forks screwed on.

So my question is what are the correct spring lengths? The long ones that I have are 17 1/8" long and the short ones are 8 7/8" long.

Are these lengths correct before I start using a bigger spanner to compress the springs?


John