Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Powerplus or Bust, Eh?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Pistons

    While I've got you guys all riled up, I thought I'd talk about pistons. My cylinders have about .008 or .009 inches of taper in them. At the bottom, where the iron stays cooler, the cylinders are hardly worn at all. At the top, near the combustion chamber, there is measurable wear. This is what you expect, and what you normally see when you take an old motor apart. If I was just building a restored bike for shows that only had to start and run for a few minutes at a time to prove that it could, I would use the cylinders as they are, without boring them out, and I would use the existing pistons. Since this bike is going to be a rider, .008 to .009 inches of taper is too much. Like a coat hanger, you can only bend piston rings so many times before they break.

    The original Indian pistons are made of cast iron. Not commonly used for pistons today, but perfectly adequate for the stress levels that this engine sees. It's a thousand cc engine that makes about fifteen horsepower. The compression ratio is something like six and a half to one. The stresses in this engine are on the order of the stresses that an old Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine would see. If I could find old oversized Indian pistons, I would use them, but I have not been able to find any. So, I began to look for custom piston manufacturers. There are several of them out there; such as Venolia, J&P, Egge, Arias, Wiseco, Ross, and more. I contacted all of those and several more, described the Indian Powerplus pistons, and asked whether they could make me some pistons that would work. Several of them said that they would be able to make me pistons, so it was just down to my judgement who I went with. After a bit of discussion, I made a deal with Nick Arias III to make me some pistons.

    The pistons will be made of forged aluminum. I think cast aluminum Pistons would have been fine, because I've had engines with half the displacement that make twice the horspower and run at twice to RPMs with cast aluminum pistons. I'm not saying forged pistons aren't better, I'm just saying that I think cast pistons would have been good enough. That being said, most of the custom piston manufacturers are making forged pistons now, since their main market is making pistons for racing engines. So it will have forged pistons. I'll need to adjust the clearance appropriately, since forged aluminum pistons need a little more clearance. They expand faster than the cast iron barrels, so you have to give them enough clearance that they don't sieze. They'll rattle and slap a little when cold, but that doesn't hurt anything.

    The pistons will look more like modern pistons. They'll be cam ground, and they won't be full skirted like the old ones. They'll have 5/8 inch pins like the old ones, but the bushings will need to be shortened a bit because the aluminum Pistons need a heavier pin boss, so the boss to boss dimension will be shorter. Arias is supplying the pins, which they're getting them from Egge and then they'll grind them to the proper length.

    Thats enough info for now, I think I'll save the subject of piston rings for the next discussion. I hope to hear your thoughts on pistons.


    Kevin

    .
    Kevin
    https://www.youtube.com/c/motodesoto

    Comment


    • Are you worried about the changes to the balance factor of the pistons and crank worth the new lighter pistons?

      I know vibration has been the cause of a lot of Cannonball grief.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by fciron View Post
        Are you worried about the changes to the balance factor of the pistons and crank worth the new lighter pistons?

        I know vibration has been the cause of a lot of Cannonball grief.

        Yes.


        Kevin

        .
        Kevin
        https://www.youtube.com/c/motodesoto

        Comment


        • Kevin!

          Have you determined the original factor?

          .....Cotten
          AMCA #776
          Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

          Comment


          • I'll be following this with great interest Kevin. I will be using the original pistons in my '16J because the cylinders have minimal wear due to the engine spending most of it's life as an air compressor. I do have another '16 motor that I would like to build up in the future and it will need pistons made to suit a new bore. I'll be curious about the piston clearance as I have heard many conflicting stories about aluminum piston fitted in early motorcycles.
            Eric Smith
            AMCA #886

            Comment


            • Eric!

              It would invaluable if you could determine the existing balance factors of your motors.

              Got knife edges?

              ....Cotten
              AMCA #776
              Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

              Comment


              • I've never balanced a motor Tom. That is something I should really pursue, but my talents(?) have never been in motor building. People like me are well advised to trust the experts
                Eric Smith
                AMCA #886

                Comment


                • Eric!

                  The "experts" want it to be 'sacred knowledge', and intentionally make it far more complicated than it really is.
                  There is infinite mis-information about motor balancing, so the first step to the truth is to find out what the Powerplus really was to begin with.

                  Original crank assemblies and original pistons are priceless for recovering this part of History, even if they are otherwise trashed.

                  A scale, and a large lathe with simple centers could do it, honest.

                  ....Cotten
                  Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-02-2015, 06:25 PM.
                  AMCA #776
                  Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                  Comment


                  • Kevin
                    While I am definitely not a balance expert, I do have some food for thought.
                    The “original factor” is designed for 1916 speeds on 1916 roads which are a lot slower than today’s speeds, mainly due to the quality of roads back then vs now.
                    It is my understanding that the intended usage of this PP is for the Cannonball. Not just for putting around the block or in town.
                    With that in mind, what is the main touring speed in high gear that they and/or this PP will travel during the Cannonball?
                    What is the RPM that produces the most power that is also realistic to maintain for a sustained period of time?
                    That optimum RPM and tour speed will show what the required overall gear ratio of the PP needs to be traveling at that speed and RPM.
                    Based on the above, I would think that the PP motor should be balanced with that RPM in mind so it will be the smoothest at that tour speed.
                    Again, just some food for thought
                    Spacke2speed
                    P.S. A friend said if I want to get into the details, here are some interesting articles on motorcycle motor balancing.
                    http://www.terra-glide.net/flywheels.html
                    http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/En...ineBalance.pdf
                    http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/2011...6-how-i-do-it/

                    Comment


                    • my Henderson has Venolia forged pistons, set up at what they recommended. Been 18 years with no issues at all, approaching 7,000 miles on the engine, good luck.
                      Last edited by Tom Lovejoy; 03-03-2015, 12:30 AM. Reason: added info

                      Comment


                      • I want to say that I really enjoy these little discussions.

                        Piston clearance: I told Mr. Arias the diameter that I want to bore the cylinders to. It was based on removing the minimum amount of metal but being sure that the cylinders would clean up. I told him to subtract his recommended clearance from that dimension, and then make the pistons that size. I've built air cooled engines with forged aluminum pistons before, and I am certain that Arias knows what the clearance should be. I'm trusting them on this one.

                        Balance factor: Yes! I do intend to measure the original balance factor. I don't have the equipment, but I know someone who does. If that doesn't work out I will figure a way or ask somone how because you know what? Physics is fun! When I get off of these 13 hour night shifts I plan to do some research and seek some advice about what the balance factor should be. To be honest, I really don't want to drill holes in my 100 year old crank. I asked Nick (Arias) to make the piston crowns thicker than normal, so that they will be heavier. He had one of my original pistons that I sent him so he could measure it himself. Even with that, the new pistons will be lighter than the old. I'm also hoping that the low engine speeds that these old engines run at will work in my favor.

                        And yes, I plan to estimate the RPM that it will most often see. It will be an estimate, I don't think I can know what the power band and performance characteristics will be until I have it running and put some miles on it. But I can decide a range of road speeds that I want to tour at, and look at the range of sprockets that are available and use that to calculate the range of RPMs that engine will most often run at. I suspect it will be some what of an iterative, trial and error process. I should probably also ask the advice of somone like Mr. Spacke2Speed who has done some touring on old Indians. ;-)

                        Thanks for all the advice and the links. It gives me some stuff to think about.


                        Kevin

                        .
                        Kevin
                        https://www.youtube.com/c/motodesoto

                        Comment


                        • Kevin!

                          It is all much, much more simple than those who wish to impress let on.
                          All the fancy gismos are not necessary, but a scale will be.

                          You only need to determine the "weight" of the tops of your rods, which can be accomplished even while assembled (attached).

                          And if "knife-edges' tall enough are not available, a very large lathe with centers will do fine, as I mentioned. By adding weight to the "wristpins" until the assembly comes to balance, you can then easily calculate your existing factor.
                          (I were to start all over, I would use round stock instead of "knife-edges".)

                          A very simple, and practical discussion can be found at http://www.virtualindian.org/1techflywheel.htm.

                          Please beware that the optimum factor is, contrary to popular belief, less dependent upon RPM than the design of the frame that holds it.
                          Twins are enormously forgiving, unlike a Four.

                          I firmly believe that the original designers actually knew what they were doing, and much is obfuscated by today's rocket scientists with "better ideas".
                          Beware of anyone who pontificates that any factor is holy for all machines.

                          ....Cotten
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-03-2015, 12:08 PM.
                          AMCA #776
                          Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                          Comment


                          • This is a long term dream of mine - to build a engine. I am slowly getting the tools needed, scale, lathe, trueing stand and I have a PP engine under my work bench. Good reading guys, keep it coming.

                            Comment


                            • Tom!

                              A lathe is a truing stand.
                              Just put centers in the headstock and tailstock.

                              .....Cotten
                              AMCA #776
                              Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Tom Lovejoy View Post
                                This is a long term dream of mine - to build a engine. I am slowly getting the tools needed, scale, lathe, trueing stand and I have a PP engine under my work bench. Good reading guys, keep it coming.
                                I built my rod-lapping arbor shaft (whatever you call it) on the little south bend flat belt drive like in Kevin's photos. Also built the shaft and tapered sleeve that I press into a flywheel to check balance with bob-weight.
                                Strayed from the conventional on the parallel bars, though. I took four small ball bearings, removed the seals, bolted them 2 each into a couple of adjustable stilts, and the balancing shaft rolls in them. If it's accurate within a penny it's good enough for me. .. . A friend trued his Triumph wheels on it too. His Triumph wheels had no centers.
                                Have to comment though, that a guy has to give up hunting and fishing sometimes, in favor of this labor of love. And many works ended up in the scrap-iron barrel. But it beats bird-watching.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X