27 JD Restoration

[Steve Swan]

thank you John, for your kind words. very exciting to assemble the bike, think of all the machining and fitting work that went in to so many of the parts to make the old fellow a motorcycle again. really a pleasure to assemble the parts, going slowly in part to enjoy the process and not scratch anything ! my Dad would be loving every moment were he here ! makes me SO cognizant we are caretakers of these fine machines for such a short time.

[TechNoir]

Wow even with just those few parts bolted on it is looking fantastic Steve. Well done, I cant wait to see it completed.

John

[Steve Swan]

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[Steve Swan]

more pics, the tanks, fropnt fender and tool box will be finished next week.

[Steve Swan]

parts are starting to come in from the painter, so more progress. and i can say, "ain't she a dandy bus."

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[Steve Swan]

this looks alot better. what a silly boy i am. Thanks John ! and John !

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[Steve Swan]

of course, thanks John.

[harleytoprock]

Steve, You know me, I'm John Faraci

[Steve Swan]

Steve, For 1927 the internal spring lengths are 19" lower and 9 3/4" upper. BTW, the olive green looks great! Are all of the olive green parts base coat/ clear coat? Are the stripes under or over the clear? I hope all works out well with the fork.

Thanks so much for the spring measurements. i plan in the next couple days to get the fork off and disassembled and go from there. i will post what i find.

yes, the Olive Green is really a very lovely color, i would not ever have dreamt it before i actually knew what it looked like. depending on the light, it shifts to different hues. yes, all the chassis parts will have base/clear coat and clear over the stripes.

i gave the man who is doing my painting as much information from the forum i could find about clear coating over decals

if i recall correctly, the important things to bear in mind when clear coating over decals is to:

1. let the first layer of clear coat set for 24+ hours before applying decals so bubbling under the decal does not occur
2. highly buff the clear ( do not sand the clear coat before applying decals
3. if one wants to trim off the very edges of decals to prevent 'frosting' around the edges that's fine, but factory applied decals, one could see the clear edging around the periphery of the decal
4. then apply a very light coat of clear

if you've any suggestions, please let me know, i truly do appreciate the wisdom of your experience.

harleytoprock, at one point i knew your name, but have misplaced or forgotten it..... can you share with me again ? Thanks !

[harleytoprock]

Steve, For 1927 the internal spring lengths are 19" lower and 9 3/4" upper. BTW, the olive green looks great! Are all of the olive green parts base coat/ clear coat? Are the stripes under or over the clear? I hope all works out well with the fork.

[harleytoprock]

Steve, Yes, plunger is down. I guess better to find out now than after wheel and fender are on. Check your spring lengths also. I have measurements if you need them.

[Steve Swan]

Thanks John ! as i feared. grrr......... i hate taking a fresh restoration apart.

[TechNoir]

so - should the long portion of the plungers be facing down or up ?

Steve, on my 1920 the long portion faces down. I assume it is the same on your 1927 as the forks are basically the same. If you look at post #29 on my build thread you will see a picture of what I mean.

John

[Steve Swan]

That's a GOOD question. and thank you for noticing that. before i re-assembled the forks, i looked through ALL my pictures for order of assembly, but i had not taken any......

so i went with what seemed to fit. i wonder if i installed the plungers in the wrong position.....? i put the long part of the plungers in the spring tube facing up.

prior to fitting the long portion of plungers in up position, i had them in the down position. When the plungers were in the down position with the fork assembly fully compressed, i had what seemed to be excessive spring sticking out above the tops of the spring fork. as i recall, at least 6 or 8 inches of spring sticking out with fork assembly completely compressed.

with the plungers facing up, i had about 4 inches sticking out with the fork completely compressed.

and just to be clear, the long springs are below the plungers (lower part of spring tube) and the short springs are above the plungers (upper part of tube.)

i'm annoyed with myself because i didn't take any pictures of the order of assembly at the various times i have had forks apart and because i did not run into this the first time i assembled the forks for the first (fitting) build. i guess i thought i could remember something that seemed "so simple" .......

so - should the long portion of the plungers be facing down or up ?

i truly appreciate your observation and look forward to your reply.

enclosed are the best pictures i could find taken during the fitting build that i could find of the forks unloaded. and one with the bike on the lift on the rear stand with the jack removed.

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[painterdale]

That is sure going to be a beauty! Nice job, Steve. (I especially like picture 4 above with the Double Overhead Cam transmission fitted!)

Dale