27 JD Restoration

[Steve Swan]

so, i've actually made quite a bit of progress the past week. first i need to say, i cannot seem to stop myself when in the middle of processes to take pictures. i seem to get in my "zone" and can't quit until i am finished...... so, my 'build' does not have a lot to show for how i am actually getting things done. it seems nearly every repro part i am using requires 'adjustment' to fit properly.

i installed sealed bearings in my transmission and fitted Jon Neuman's VL countershaft gear kit, so i did not fit the large and small brass oil retainers. adjusted the main shaft end play to around .003".

the clutch is built from Bob Luland's very fine parts, Mark Masa's very fine clutch hub sprocket. the clutch hub bearing kit is from Comp.D and the race it's self was about .020" too wide so needed to be ground down to turn freely when the clutch main shaft nut was tightened.

in my previous pics, i showed the exh.valve stems being too long, the cylinders would not fit on crankcase base. i cut them down free hand to .010" over stock so my friend could face them off square in his valve grinding machine. then i had to cut off about 6 threads length from the inlet push rods, now the cylinders seat on the crankcase base.

Monday, i plan to get pistons in the bores, then get the upper end assembled.

i also got my little 3/16 copper tube for the tail light wire installed. i am using a Tom Feeser tail.stop light setup, so i am going to have to get creative and deviate from original wiring to accommodate 2 wires going through that little tube.... i think i'm going to use that high tech hi-ampere very small gauge thin strand silver speaker wire or something like it. not really familiar with that type of wire, but it should work for the tail/stop light, i'll cover the wire with cloth sheathing so it can't be seen.

i would like to thank David Butts for doing all my clutch riveting work. (i will call you tomorrow evening David, sorry i have not returned your call earlier....)

i'm also starting a new thread on timing gear covers, seems i'm a little confused on which cover is correct for 27....

i should have my 20" clincher wheels back from Buchanan's around the middle of March ! going with ss spokes and nickle plated nipples.....

20160227_202156.jpg20160227_202141.jpg20160227_202611.jpg20160227_202211.jpg20160227_202127.jpg

[Steve Swan]

Getting closer.... pistons installed, upper end buttoned up. next, need to make a tool to go in to top cyl mount to measure BTDC.20160229_161516.jpg20160229_154925.jpg20160229_154940.jpg20160229_154949.jpg

[Steve Swan]

got my gen/time installed. discovered the rear exhaust goes on before the the generator does !

20160301_151215.jpg20160301_181559.jpg

[Steve Swan]

A little more progress today. i made a TDC finding tool and degree measurement tool.

i have downloaded, printed off and read the "Timing" information by "flamingoesd" in jd yahoo grps

1. Timing ignition is done off the front cylinder ?

2. I would appreciate hearing your experience the best BTDC measurement ? i'm using domed Venolia pistons, so i suppose that is the more or less equivalent of a "Rici head" ? Dan Margolien wrote me he has his 26 set at 5/16" i have heard 3/8" but do not have 1st hand source such as from Dan.

3. for full advance, is the timer turned forward ?

4. i am used to setting ignition points just opening at the BTDC position. Would this be correct procedure when measuring setting ignition timing by BTDC ?

5. i have also read the procedure to time ignition in the 1927 Rider's Hand Book. i had read it probably well over a year ago..... long enough that i forgot i read it.

A. As you all know, the Hand Book discusses timing ignition with timer set in full advance position, does not state which direction timer is moved to be in full advance direction?? But then, i can look at which way the narrow end of cam moves relative to the heel of the points cam.... ?

B. Instructions go on to say, compound gear is removed.

C. "turn generator in direction in which it operates (to left) (this is counterclockwise?) until the "narrow end of the circuit breaker cam has separated contact points about one half their full opening."

D. then fit compound gear.

E. i realize this procedure has to work, it has been used thousands of times.... the contact points being separated "about one half their full opening creeps me out. specifically, it the word "ABOUT" that creeps me out..... it seems relying on the alignment of the marks on the gears and the points "about" half open opens the possibility for an incorrect setting relative to BTDC....

F. i guess i could measure the distance between points closed and fully open, divide the distance and then guess at "about one half"might be.... and i guess i could measure the btdc of the piston when the marks are aligned and the points are "about" half open.

Anyway..... i guess i am writing all this out for 3 reasons..... 1 is that i have a clear understanding what the procedure is and 2 someone will tell me my understanding is correct or incorrect and 3 just tell me what the TDC/BTDC measurement is. The more i think about this, i realize it might be possible the only BTDC setting there is is the setting at which the engine starts easily and runs without knocking or overheating......

also made up 3391-25 control coil clip from some ss scrap, but the dimensions are not right, so i'm pretty sure i won't be able to live with it.

Also pics of oil i plan to use, 50w, aviation ashless dispersant, a friend has several quarts left over from when his Dad was alive and had a plane; years ago..... So, we both think it's pretty cool oil his Dad used in his plane is going in a 27JD like my Dad rode.

[Steve Swan]

20160305_201843.jpg20160305_201934.jpg

[Steve Swan]

so, today i got the ignition timed, valves adjusted, leak down tested. engine in frame. All is good. what a piece of artwork. i'm thinking of making up an adapter to use my dial indicator to set the timing.

20160306_104154.jpg20160306_104251.jpg20160306_165211.jpg20160306_104415.jpg20160306_165028.jpg

[Steve Swan]

sort of pinching myself. the engine is finished.

[koanes]

Looking good Steve. The dome on your custom piston may change your measurement for timing, depending on point of contact with your indicator. I would use Dan's number to start and use a light to determine just when the points open, advancing your distributor towards the rotation of the points cam. Make sure your points gap is correct. That should get you in the ballpark.

[alanc48]

I didn't know you had a build thread going here, awesome! Now I don't have to sift through the yahoo! group for your pics

[Steve Swan]

Thanks Al !

got my gorgeous wheels back from Buchanan's yesterday. The rims are from Al McRoberts.

i remember my Dad telling me when he was a young fellow he owned a 1917 Model T and saying "Getting the tires over the clincher rims was a real bear cat."

setting the the wheels on top of the tires and pretending to attempt to start the tire on the rim already has me beat up. everything i've read and what the guys have shared, tire changes were recommended to be done by hand. Sumo wrestling these tires on my pretty rims, i concede the match. i am going to make up a tool to stretch the tire so i can more or less slip it over the rim. (see the thread i started asking for advice getting these tires on the rims.)

20160315_161051.jpg20160315_161102.jpg20160315_172204.jpg20160315_172216.jpgs-l1600.jpg

[Steve Swan]

i realized i did not have any pics of my "control panel," so here is.

20160211_235229.jpg

[Steve Swan]

well, nothing fantastic in this post, i laced up the repro Kelsey-Hayes rims to a spare set of hubs i have.... when i first got my my bike, i decided i wanted to use the d.c. rims instead of clinchers as i did not want to have a vintage style accident -and- i did not know about Al McRoberts..... the more pictures i collected, the more attracted i was to the appearance of the clinchers, the nice clean center, the larger more bicycle looking diameter and original eqpt..... So, when i found out Al produces clinchers, i could not resist. anyway..... not sure where this post is going, but i am going to have 2 complete sets of wheels when i am finished. decided to paint the d.c.'s black as i figured black was probably a standard color for the rims. as easy as wheel changes are, it won't be any big deal to swap back and forth.

20160317_191836.jpg20160317_194309.jpg

[Steve Swan]

So, here's few miscellaneous pics, after i assembled foot boards and Parkerized the side bars. Pic with rear wheel speedometer drive installed is from today.

20160314_140535.jpg20160314_140553.jpg20160325_182335.jpg20160325_182322.jpg

[Steve Swan]

some of you have read my thread under "clincher... help!" well, i decided to man up and get the 3.85x20 tires on my rims. the wife is gone. so, i brought the wheels home and warmed the tires up on the stove. definitely a process, but not that difficult but definitely memorable. here's some pics of the process and the outcome. the larger rims and tires are really beautiful. and really fill out the rear fender nicely.

one tip i will offer, use a block of wood, 2x6 works good, makes pushing the bead on easier. the hardest part was getting the first bead to seat enough to clear the hole in rim to get the tube stem through the hole in the rim. the 2nd bead would be inverted when on rim, but a slight amount of air pressure pushed the bead in position. i got one scratch on each rim where the stem would rub the rim, even with a plastic tube around the steel stem.

anyway, i should have my sprocket back from the nickle plater.

20160330_200744.jpg20160330_205049.jpg20160330_205116.jpg20160330_205132.jpg20160330_205149.jpg

[Steve Swan]

20160330_214822.jpg20160330_224701.jpg20160331_005211.jpg