27 JD Restoration

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    well, i was puttering around the shop with little to do, waiting on parts for a couple projects and was about ready to leave shop and i suddenly became possessed with the idea to start the JD......... i had spoke earlier in the day to a friend and he asked if i had started the bike yet, of course i said no....... the conversation apparently could not leave my head. i had turned the lights off over my bench and was just getting ready to turn off the main shop lights when i did an about face, went over to a can of gas i had, dumped in what little there was in the reserve tank. i then turned the gas on, no leaks anywhere, so gave 2 "prime" kicks. put it on "start" and kick #1, nothing. kick #2 and she fired and stayed running. and did not quit. DAMN !!!! WOW !!!! ME OH MY OH ME OH MY !!!! so, i turned the fan on. let it run about 3 minutes. responded perfectly to retard and advance, lovely chug, chug a chug chug, chug a chug.. a bit rich, but not by much. Generator generates current. can't figure out how to up/down or whatever load the video from my phone to my computer..... will get my camera, i think i will have better luck with it. MORE TO COME ! i will bet it's been at least 50-60 years since this engine has run !!!!! what a wonderful thing to resurrect a motorcycle from the dead.
    Last edited by Steve Swan; 05-31-2016, 07:16 PM.

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    Originally posted by MMasa View Post
    Steve
    What's the make and part number of that sealed lead acid battery?
    My friend Geoff Erdos makes that case that Replicant sells and I'm sure Geoff would like to know about a battery that fits. Especially a 14AH battery.
    Thanks
    Mark Masa
    Mark, this is the exact same battery i purchased today - SLAA6-14A

    link to actual battery - https://www.batteriesplus.com/Batter...0013/SLAA6=14A

    were original batteries 20 amp hours ?

    due to battery's 5-1/2" height, i had to lay (sealed) battery on it's side for it to fit, but with high density foam, it's exactly perfect. the inside of the case is 5" tall. there is another 1/4" height on inside of cover, so if one tries to fit battery upright, there is approximately a 1/4" gap between top of case and bottom of cover. even with this gap, the case with battery in it will fit inside the steel battery box.

    ps - i just sent you a pm
    Last edited by Steve Swan; 05-17-2016, 08:42 PM. Reason: ps......

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  • MMasa
    replied
    Steve
    What's the make and part number of that sealed lead acid battery?
    My friend Geoff Erdos makes that case that Replicant sells and I'm sure Geoff would like to know about a battery that fits. Especially a 14AH battery.
    Thanks
    Mark Masa

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    Originally posted by TechNoir View Post
    Its looking good Steve. Not far to go, I bet you are itching to get it finished and ride it.

    Looking forward to your next update.

    John
    that will be a big day for sure ! i'm finding at age 64+ i'm no even close to the hurry i used to feel 20 or even 10 years ago ! i do have a bit of content anticipation, though ! 11090 will be ready when it is ready ! i'm still in a bit of disbelief i'm at the stage the bike could actually be started.

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    i now have the bike wired. i was able to find a 14 amp hour sealed lead acid battery that fits perfectly inside the plastic faux original battery case Replicant sells. i stuck high density foam on the battery it's self and the dimensions are now the exact dimensions of the inside of the case. once the clutch pedal and clutch pull rod are ready to use, the bike will be ready to start and test ride.

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  • TechNoir
    replied
    Its looking good Steve. Not far to go, I bet you are itching to get it finished and ride it.

    Looking forward to your next update.

    John

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  • exeric
    replied
    You've really made some progress Steve, and your efforts really show. In regards to the wire grommet, I would suspect it would be very similar to a grommet tool used for canvas tents, tarps, etc. I'll bet you could find some good pictures of the tooling on the web, or ebay. It's possible there is a tool set just for your size, but I think you could easily make one on a lathe.

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    one more pic

    20160512_215331.jpg

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    here is a picture of the eyelet

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    started working around 2pm and went til midnight. got control cables cut to length, spark and throttle adjusted and cleaned tanks. (the spark control coil could be about 2.5 inches longer, the ordered length of 60 inches is just short.) I'd appreciate knowing who to contact to buy a length longer than 60 inches. Next, on to wiring and getting the clutch controls.

    these little round connectors, how do they attach to the wire ? seems there is probably a tool necessary to do the crimping ? what does the tool look like ? or, where can i purchase one ?

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    More pics. won't be able to continue for a few days, when i get back to my shop, will clean up tanks, install, then on to wiring and miscellaneous details.

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    Major progress.

    20160427_214533.jpg20160427_214427.jpg20160427_224326.jpg20160427_214509.jpg20160427_214519.jpg
    Last edited by Steve Swan; 04-28-2016, 08:22 AM. Reason: add more pics

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    Thanks, Peter! Thaaaats where i saw the 2 types... and, that's where my questions came from..... my original 27-31 parts book show only one pn for the primer cups, "49-14..................1915 to 1931" i am assuming the original 49-14 cups are flat.
    Last edited by Steve Swan; 04-21-2016, 12:44 AM. Reason: more text

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  • Peter Cooke
    replied
    Steve,

    The Replicant Metals website shows the cupped primer for 1930 -36. It has some good pictures of both types for comparison purposes.

    Hope this helps.

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  • Steve Swan
    replied
    So, more progress......... !

    1st is picture of the spanners i had made up for tightening the sprocket and brake drum ring nuts.

    2nd is picture of 2 different types of cylinder primer cups. one is original, the other reproduction. which type is correct for 27 ? another question, is the reproduction an accurate copy ? looking at 22-27 and 27-31 parts books, looks like there is no distinction between the two, one pn = 49-14. somewhere, and i cannot find where, i thought i saw the flat face (repro) was correct through 29...... and the cupped primer 1930-onward.........?

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