741 Carb Bowl Condition

[JTR249]

The bowl just looks cleaner having it at hand compared to the photo.
Here is a photo of the notch.
-JR M741-1 Float Bowl Inner Notch.JPG

[T. Cotten]

I still do not know what you mean by 'notch', JR,..

Maybe someone else can answer, Please?

Meanwhile, the float is interesting; You will need to remove it for adjustment anyway, and to inspect your floatvalve needle.

Take care handling it, as they can be quite brittle. Once adjusted, you will want to bridge the two edges of the float over the lever and pivotscrew with a fuel-proof adhesive, such as Seal-All or seasoned JBWeld, to secure the float..

....Cotten

[JTR249]

image_45261.jpg Even though this is not the same bowl, you can see on the photo before this one that the notch is very difficult to see under the edge of the float. I'll take a photo when I remove the float.
-JR

[T. Cotten]

T'ain't a 'notch', JR,

Its a 'boss'.

crbprntA.jpg

It limits the float travel to where it shouldn't stick when the bowl is emptied.

Please note how when the sidevalve bowl is indexed, the drain plug is conveniently at the lowest point, when on the side stand.

It is best sealed upon the inside, and then never touched.

....Cotten

[JTR249]

Now that makes logical sense.
I was also able to dis-assemble the float lever, needle and seat parts to re-adjust the float.
So even though these parts have gaskets, you still use sealants on some/most/all?
Here's my actual photo of that boss when I removed the float.
-JR M741-1 Carb Bowl without Float.JPG

[T. Cotten]

Modern gaskets or vulcanized rubber seals, JR,

Have impregnated sealers or just seal naturally, and extra goober can get in the way.

What needle did you find? Was there any script on the float?

Your boss looks fine.

....Cotten

[JTR249]

I found a set of modern, James brand gaskets--standard reproduction for Linkerts. I have not purchased them yet.
I bought both needles from Greer's as well as the last round of small parts. Waiting.
The float does have script, though it appears to be modern reproduction.
I have noticed that many modern, reproduction parts are lighter metal. I replaced the float screw fittings with originals from the pile and was surprised to find a noticeable difference in heft comparing repro and original fittings. I know it will not make any difference in performance there, but it is good to learn the fitment I guess.
-JR

[T. Cotten]

The problem with kits, JR,.

They sell you stuff you don't need, and leave out stuff you do.

Only modern cast floats have script: "LINKERT" from Tedd Cycle, or the Rubber Ducky has "WWW.MOLDTHREAD.COM." ;
Tedd's get squishy and swell immediately; Duckies take much longer to swell, depending upon the fuels they are exposed to..

TEDBLOT2.jpg
RDBLOAT.jpg



If its a Duckie, you might as well use it until it sticks
RDSTUCK.jpg


....Cotten
PS:

...I replaced the float screw fittings with originals from the pile and was surprised to find a noticeable difference in heft comparing repro and original fittings. I know it will not make any difference in performance there, but it is good to learn the fitment I guess.
-JR

It would be hard to prove, JR,...
But any added mass to the float side of the lever makes the float sit deeper in the fuel, occupying the already minimal volume available for a steady-state, much less acceleration (the bowl is considered a third circuit, as it can affect mixture):
stemcast3.jpg
The only fuel available is between the 5/8" level and the Power needle (or fixed jet).

[JTR249]

Yes, I did notice that after I looked my Hatfield page again, though was not familiar with those numbers. I saw what you might call extra gaskets in some of the online kits and then read about the fact that Sheblers use two bowl gaskets and Linkert one or none?
Anyway, I was wrong about my float. It is not Linkert script, though matches your second photo as mine says www.moldthreads.com.
And so a rubber ducky it is!
I understand the venturi better and have the basic sequence down. Needles fitted, throttle lever assembly 9from Kurly's) installed as well, though waiting on the final round of parts.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and reference photos. I used to think this would be impossible and you and other members have boosted confidence and made the process understandable.
I'll post a photo after gaskets.
-JR

[T. Cotten]

... then read about the fact that Sheblers use two bowl gaskets and Linkert one or none?..

Don't believe everything you read, JR,...

Bronze bowl Scheblers used no bowl gasket. However, like Linkert sidebowls that lacked one, modern hygiene obliges a butcher-paper thin one to be punched.
Schebler potmetal models used one under the tin lid, but not on top. Again a thin one is prudent, if only to hold sealer.
The '40-only 'beanpot' bowls had their own unique top gasket.

(GX Model Scheblers had a gasket beneath a screwed-on lid. There may well be other variations I am not aware of...)

Aftermarket kits may include the Linkert -52 M53 series gasket, which are nearly thirty thousandths of an inch thick.

....Cotten

[T. Cotten]

Meanwhile, JR,..

Your tools in post #31 correspond to many in the common Schebler Service Station Manual:

Service Station Manual 34.jpg
Service Station Manual 35.jpg

....Cotten
PS: Happy New Year, Everyone!

[JTR249]

Thanks, Cotten. Happy New Year!
I have a couple of questions while I wait on the last round of parts. Should be here today or tomorrow.
1. Which should be assembled first, the intake lever or lift lever assembly? The lift lever assembly seems to be getting in the way of the low speed needle.
2. The low speed needle as a result of condition in question 1 seems to be a little loose. Is that normal and can it be tightened? There is a screw slot on top of course, but I realize there are internal parts. Can it only be tightened while in position on the carb body?

Oh. The venturi was installed with no problem. I understand better now what you meant. I slid the nozzle into position, with the correct turn toward choke end and it is ready for the other parts.

-JR

[T. Cotten]

... Which should be assembled first, the intake lever or lift lever assembly? The lift lever assembly seems to be getting in the way of the low speed needle.
2. The low speed needle as a result of condition in question 1 seems to be a little loose. Is that normal and can it be tightened? There is a screw slot on top of course, but I realize there are internal parts. Can it only be tightened while in position on the carb body?

Oh. The venturi was installed with no problem. I understand better now what you meant. I slid the nozzle into position, with the correct turn toward choke end and it is ready for the other parts.

-JR

Inspection of the throttledisc assembly is easiest, JR,

With the choke assembly removed, as you must observe for daylight around the disc to align it to its optimum seal. Please inspect for daylight around the venturi as well, as that defeats the 'accelerator sump' effect upon the main nozzle:

DAYLIGHT.jpg

It is the nature of potmetal (ZAMAK) to shrink and 'move' over the decades. Beware Colony did a production copying the shrinkage!:

CLNYVENT.jpg

Aluminum venturies can be a slip-fit, as they do not shrink; Potmetal can be swaged and lathe-cut to a light press fit, as it will shrink to a slip in a matter of months.

The fit of the nozzle spigot into the venturi is also critical for acceleration, and should be remedied if damaged:
NZLWEAR.jpg

wornvent.jpg

....Cotten

[JTR249]

Okay. I checked this and only from one side do I see a lot of daylight in the shape of a hair-line arc. Very thin probably because all of the parts are new except for the body.
So what is the remedy? Re-coat the bore?
Here's a photo of mine. This is not very good. Sometimes when you hold it at another angle you can see a bit more daylight in a longer arc.
-JR Venturi Daylight.JPG

[T. Cotten]

[QUOTE=JTR249;n331457]Okay. I checked this and only from one side do I see a lot of daylight in the shape of a hair-line arc. Very thin probably because all of the parts are new except for the body.
So what is the remedy? Re-coat the bore?
Here's a photo of mine. This is not very good. Sometimes when you hold it at another angle you can see a bit more daylight in a longer arc.[QUOTE]

It is most unusual, JR,

For such a gap to result from wear into the body in a Model M, and it would produce a ledge you could feel with your finger if it did. (Type A Scheblers with brass venturies suffered such.)

Please put a mic all over your 'new' venturi, and boregauge the body if you can.

Ain't no coat to re-coat.

..Cotten