45 trans bushings

[JSB55]

Since my Servi Car engine turned out to be toast, and had to go out for a rebuild, I decided to dive into the transmission to see why it leaks so badly. Sure enough, just sitting on a bench, the sprocket side cover visibly leaks, as does the top cover with the trans angled even a small bit. So ... at a minimum, I need to replace those gaskets and related seals, as well as the leather gasket for the shift lever. Once it's open, I might as well check everything, following the very detailed post on here by "Pa".

Question is, if I find I need to replace any bushings, can I press those out and new ones in with a benchtop Arbor Press, or would I need a much bigger hydraulic press? Not much room left in my garage, and this is really the only project I can think of that I would need a press for, so I'm reluctant to pop for a 20 ton floor model for just this one job.

Thanks for any input.

[T. Cotten]

I wish Pa were still with us to answer, JSB55,..

Because I lack his tact. You are considering throwing money at a pile driver when a mallet should do, or even less.

The press-fit on most bushings and bearings is in the realm of a thou and a half or so.

Tapping them out and in gently works with luck, but a simple screw press makes it easier to keep things straight, and if you can chill the bushing and warm the case, it might just drop right in.

.....Cotten

[JSB55]

I wish Pa were still with us to answer, JSB55,..

Because I lack his tact. You are considering throwing money at a pile driver when a mallet should do, or even less.

The press-fit on most bushings and bearings is in the realm of a thou and a half or so.

Tapping them out and in gently works with luck, but a simple screw press makes it easier to keep things straight, and if you can chill the bushing and warm the case, it might just drop right in.

.....Cotten

Thanks, Cotten. I was hoping that heat/cold, a well selected impact socket and a couple whacks with the BFH would do the trick, but when I googled it, all I found was automotive guys saying nothing less than 20 tons will do. Sounded like massive overkill, which obviously it was.

The Tactless Truth Teller saves the day again.

John

[JSB55]

P.S., Cotten ... good call on the Main Seal. That's the one place it doesn't leak!

[JSB55]

Starting to dive into this trans, but first wanted to hand shift it on the bench to see how it works as is. Shifts pretty easily, but with the occasional false neutral as it hangs up between gears. Figured I would loosen the cam plunger a tad to see how that affected it, as it has to come off anyway to get the shifter cam out. Well, that little bugger is so tight, I can't move it even with heat and a pair of vice grips. Figured I better check, before I go at it with a "bolt out" socket. Is that plunger cap screw staked in some way, or am I correct to assume it's just frozen in there after 65 years? Pa's detailed instructions mention punch marking it, but nothing else that would lock it up as tight as it is.

[Rubone]

Shifting on the bench has little to do with reality. The shafts must be moving for it all to work as designed.

[JSB55]

Actually, I was turning it with one hand, and shifting with the other. In any case, my immediate issue is whether or not that Cam Plunger Screw is fixed in there in some hidden way, or just stuck after all these years, in which case I may have to try a "bolt out" or just drill it out.

[RCamp]

Arbor press is all you need for replacing gear bushings and race in side cover. I use a propane torch on stubborn plunger screws. Once the aluminum expands, it will come out.

[JSB55]

Arbor press is all you need for replacing gear bushings and race in side cover. I use a propane torch on stubborn plunger screws. Once the aluminum expands, it will come out.

Thanks, RC. Logic said it ought to be removable, since it's technically an adjustment mechanism, but that thing is so stubborn, it gave me pause. I'll give it another go with the torch and a "bolt out", if necessary.