Potmetal Scheblers: How would you fix this?

[T. Cotten]

How would you fix this, Folks?

The first attachment shows how the original detente housing (shown by the right arrow) on this DLX113 body had been broken and filed back, so that
the detente ball was fully exposed and un-supported (second attachment) so that it bound the assembly until it spit the ball out. The previous "fix" was to drill out the left side and reverse the shaft, but that's just not acceptible.

Potmetal is terribly finicky to 'weld' upon (to say the least), and few TIGmeisters left that wouldn't make a mess, and that would add HOURS to the service tab. Epoxy would be a minutes' bandaid at best, bound to come back at me.

(And I hoped to avoid another complete disassembly and paint prep, etc.

So how shall I 'fix' it?

Thanks in advance, of course,

....Cotten

[T. Cotten]

So I did this, Folks.

Instead of a ball, I carved plunger that was long enough to be guided by both the spring and the remaining casting, and 'tuned' a spring.

Now,... How much do I charge?

....Cotten

[Jim]

Looks great! Not sure what to charge the guy... but if I were owner of the carb, I could tell that you were conscientious about doing it right and you really thought it out.

[harleytoprock]

Clever repair! Charge time X your hourly rate.

[T. Cotten]

Clever repair! Charge time X your hourly rate.

And price myself out of the market, Harleytoprock?

Not only am I probably already the most expensive in my field, I'm certainly the slowest.

....Cotten
PS: This wasn't the first time I took this approach by any means, and I would add it to my flat-rate sheets if only they weren't so long already.

PPS: Potmetal bodies are often so distorted that the needles no longer point at the seats (attached).
Any suggestions?