Gasoila/Glyptal/Nothing?

[billpedalino]

I'm about to assemble a set of XLCH motor cases and ran out of the Glyptal I've recently been using as an internal coating. I noticed that Gasoila, which I used years ago when employed at a Harley dealership, is still available so I ordered a small amount of what is now marketed as 'Gasoila Hard-Set'. The product is apparently now used as a thread sealant . Upon receipt, I noticed that looks the same as the varnish that I remember, except that its a bit thicker than the old stuff. It looks like the new material has a higher solids content than I remember so, despite the warnings on the can, I'm tempted to thin it out a little using denatured alcohol to enable me to brush on a thin coat. However, after a long hot morning shower, I'm now thinking of not coating the the cases at all.

My understanding was that the factory-applied Gasoila coating served to allow the oil to move along the case surface for more effective scavenging into the scraper pocket, to keep oil from seeping into the porous sand casting, and/or to seal-in any embedded contaminates. However, over the years, I've rebuilt many motors that had been previously serviced years prior and had the coating previously removed. After cleaning, these cases looked no different than cleaned up coated cases. Furthermore, 74 transmission cases as well as the back (transmission) end of Sportster cases were never factory-coated, nor have I ever done so. Again, no short or long-term ill effects that I've observed as a result.

I'm fairly sure that I'm not going to coat the inside of these cases and was wondering if anyone can offer any experience or advice as to why I would be wrong in not doing so.

Thanks....

[exeric]

I believe Indian painted their engine cases with Rust-oleum red oxide primer. Unfortunately, (or fortunately) you can't get that anymore because the original contained lead. The original coating seemed to hold up quite well and I suspect it was because of the lead. I use Glyptal myself, and I do like it. I think it does allow oil to move better, but I like it for blocking the porosity of the casting. Just from empirical observation, cases that aren't internally sealed seem to get dingy, and collect dirt more than coated cases. I have no proof of this, and it's only my observation. I didn't know Gasoila made a hard setting coating. I have been using the soft set Gasoila on my bikes for sealing intake components and couldn't be happier with it.

[T. Cotten]

I agree, Folks,

Cases should be sealed.
Beware, however, that both Gasoila and baked Glyptal failed my P4gas immersion tests.
Fuel shouldn't get into the oil we hope, but OHV owners with poor petcocks face greater threat.

....Cotten
PS: Any sealer on any of the intake manifold assemblies that I service voids all guarantees.

[rousseau]

Bill
I used gasolia on my 38 el cases. This was 15 years ago. Most recently I used the what is now called "hard set" on a tiger cub. I thinned it with with alcohol. Like you , I think the new stuff is thicker. The cub cases were so porous in one spot that (while drying) soap bubbles formed on the outside as I was blowing air from the inside. I highly recommend gasolia if you have older and/or poor quality cases. Having said all this I have two suggestions. You probably won't need it on your XLCH cases and don't do like Cotton and Pee in you tank.

[38 el]

Anyone ever use POR-15?
That stuff is bullitproof. I haven found any thinner that will remove it from anything?

jim

[T. Cotten]

Jim!

In my immersion tests, the 15 stood for fifteen hours at most. (POR-15 sample is shown at bottom left, where it peeled off completely, overnight. The maker told me it was only for treated steel, but it obviously softened and swoll, and wrinkled to where it separated itself from the etched glass plate. It is by no means 'inert' to fuels.)

I lost a couple of thousand dollars attempting to coat NOS floats.

....Cotten
PS: Note Glyptal at upper right also degraded; Gasoila is not shown as it was tested a previous year.
(Actually, it turns out to be more of a test of my local fuel than the various products. Can't wait until 2006 additives come back, when Shell even ate powdercoating.)

[38 el]

Thanks, Tom.
Im about to assemble a knuckle transmission, I think Ill just leave it unsealed....

[T. Cotten]

Jim!

As I posted,...

Cases should be sealed.
Especially if cleaned by abrasive blasting, in order to encapsulate particulates.
A separated transmission should never get P4gas in the oil, so Glyptal would be my first choice (since I have a quart sitting un-used).
The bottom studs are prone to leakage, so they would be the priority.

Motor/chassis work hasn't been allowed on my benches for some time, but my own projects would get an isocyanate urethane coating, the same as I use for eroded carb bowls, etc.

.....Cotten

[billpedalino]

Well, like I always do, I sealed the cases, simply because the factory did. I'll probably continue to do so if, for no other reason, I like the way it looks. However, while I know that some will (respectfully) disagree, I really find no reason why these castings need to be sealed. Maybe the crankcase cavity (only) was originally coated because the factories surmised that that the internal positive pressure developed during the piston down-stroke would eventually push oil through the sand castings. I've never seen evidence of that in any of the bare case motors that I've done. In over 40 years of doing this stuff, I have never seen a 1946 (+) to-date set of cases blemished with oil that permeated from the inside or seeping oil as a result of porosity (bad machining notwithstanding). Transmission cases/cavities were never factory-sealed and I've never seen one with any resulting ill effects. Maybe I'm wrong, but I'll error on the side of caution and keep painting away!

Thanks to all for responding.

[T. Cotten]

...and don't do like Cotton and Pee in you tank.

So Rousseau!

Where do you get fuel without the digestive mix of injector cleaners, Intake Valve Deposit inhibitors (IVDs), and all the other 150+ nasties allowed (some "mandated") in the USA?
And how far do you want to ride in a circle away from your source?

....Cotten
PS: Bill!
Please be aware that oil can easily pass from your OHV motor to the primary while sitting, unless you have a P4gas-proof seal on the sprocket shaft.
"Slingers" were an escape for sumped oil, and modern seals are too new for me, but I know few "rubbers" are.

[exeric]

Bill, you're talking about Harley-Davidson cases and I think their castings were of excellent quality so I would agree that sealing them might not be required. My bad experiences have come from Henderson cases which aren't of H-D quality. . . . And, I'll leave it at that

[billpedalino]

Duly noted Eric. Maybe those Henderson cases are a little thin, but I would LOVE to own one of those 4-cylinder machines!!