Linkert Paint

[billpedalino]

I painted the linkert on my '47 FL with one of the commercially available black cylinder paint bombs and it was very quickly attacket by the gasoline mix currently used in the northeast. I would now like to paint the M61 body for my '53 FLE. Can anyone recommend a good, gas (ethanol)-resistant paint for these carb bodies? I read elsewhere on this forum that Durathane by PPG (obviously a moisture-cured epoxy-urathane) should work quite well. However, I hate to spend the money on a gallon of this stuff just to maintain the three or four linkerts that I own..... but I will if there are no better suggestions.
Thanks..

[Chris Haynes]

Go to a model shop and buy some "Fuel Proof" paint that is used on model airplanes.

[T. Cotten]

Been there, done that, Chris!

Even baked AeroGloss, over baked Variprime, survived no better than rattlecan VHT epoxy.

And that resists great in some fuels, but washes off in others.

Its about the fuels, Folks.
What's 'summer blend' gonna be like this year?

....Cotten

[exeric]

I've had black Imron on my Schebler for 12 years. Still looks pretty good and very little "lifting".

[T. Cotten]

Eric!

Since you have experience, I'm curious as to how much do you figure a shop should charge for time to prep, mask, mix'n'spray, de-prep,.. and and also cover Imron materials and clean-up solvents, if they are tending to one heirloom at a time?

Assumeing each spray goes perfectly, of course.

Just wondering,

....Cotten

[exeric]

Tom, my carb was painted by a friend who used the Imron on his frame and my part was keyholed in. Personally, I don't like the stuff because it's expensive, and as I recall it's a 3 part system. Also, I understand some of the elements have a very limited shelf life so it has to be consumed in a timely manner. Lastly, it's baaaaad stuff, very unhealthy without a fresh air system. I may be wrong on some of this so I'd ask a paint supplier.

[T. Cotten]

Eric!

I am aware of the nature of Imron, and figure nobody wants to pay $75+, and I wouldn't make a penny more than a rattle-can job, since it would all go to an associate anyway.

(I hate paint.)

And add a week to a carb gig as well.
Two if it gets scratched.

....Cotten

[tomfiii]

The main thing is ,if you get gas on carb that is painted,do not touch or wipe. let it air dry.

[T. Cotten]

And no spray carb cleaners, of course....

(Yes, people do that.)

....Cotten

[Carl Olsen]

And no spray carb cleaners, of course....

(Yes, people do that.)

....Cotten

I use SEP primer with good results.
Carl

[billpedalino]

Carl,
I'm unfamiliar with 'SEP' Primer. Do you have any more product information on it? Where is it available?

[Carl Olsen]

Carl,
I'm unfamiliar with 'SEP' Primer. Do you have any more product information on it? Where is it available?

Self Etching Primer, they make it in grey and black and it is available at auto parts stores, I will check the # on the can.
Carl

[vph-d]

Carl,
Are you saying you use the sep as the paint or the primer?
VPH-D

[billpedalino]

Carl,
I do use self-etching primer on other applications - I just didn't understand the 'SEP' contraction. But I woul dbe interested in which one you use.

I've used one of the high-temp cylinder paints in the past and will probably just use some VHT spray bomb paint until something better comes around. At one point I was thinking of using a gloss black powder coating (sorry John Pierce - I know thaty's Blasphemy) but abandoned that urge becasue the powder coating guys that I use are not very cooperative or careful about masked-off areas of which there are many on a linkert body. Besides, that stuff would be far more difficult to remove than paint during the next rebuild. Furthermore, our 'green' government has regulated the heck out of that industry and the current powder coatings are far less resiliant that what they once were. So I'm not very confident that a powder coated motor part would be any more resilient to the newer gasolines than VHT paint.