1942 WLA Trans

[Flathead Butch]

The motorcycle: 1942 civilianized WLA, decent condition, good engine, rides great.

The problem: Shifts nicely from 1st to 2nd and back again. Shifts nicely into 3rd but refuses to shift back into second. After coming to a stop it still requires a lot of force to get back into the lower gears. Any ideas? I know better than to attempt any repairs myself so another question would be...any tranny mechanics near Charlotte, NC? I'd even remove it and ship it if someone who knows what they're doing would do a rebuild. I've read enough to know these old 45 transmissions require special tools and some experience to do a proper repair/rebuild.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Larry

[Jerry Wieland]

Butch A sticky/non releasing clutch can cause issues of this nature. If the motor is shut down the problem usually goes away. Another thing is a loose or bent shifting fork.

If it is not the clutch, it is fairly easy to remove the transmission top on a WL and observe what the problem might be.

Jerry

[Flathead Butch]

Thanks Jerry. The clutch works so easily in first and second I think it might indeed be the shifting fork. The big question is can a novice like myself fix it!
Larry

[RCamp]

Larry,
Put the bike on the rear stand and while rocking the rear wheel back and forth with one hand, upshift and downshift through all the gears, if no problems it's not the transmission. Like Jerry said, the clutch is not releasing. Is the primary chain too tight? Aftermarket parts or "big fix" roller kit causing too tight a fit between clutch basket and hub? Primary chain alignment?

If it is the tranny, and you need parts or tools, let me know, I'm only about 80 miles from Charlotte.

Ralph

[Flathead Butch]

Thanks for the tip Ralph. With the bike on the rear stand the problem persists, regardless of whether the clutch is engaged or not. From this I gather it is likely the problem is in the transmission itself.
Larry

[Limey_Dave]

Larry
The first thing I'd check is the adjustment of the external shifter rod.This needs checking each time the primary chain is adjusted,as the position of the gearbox changes.
Check this as per the manual before going into the box.

[duffeycycles]

Ifthis is a bike that was just put together or brought back from dead.I would guess that the position of the shift fork was set up wrong ---especially if they followed the book and did not look at the gaps.I do not recomend novices or big twin guys for this rebuild .

[Limey_Dave]

I'd agree that rebuilding the box isn't a job for a novice,and that someone used to big twin boxes would be starting at square one.The 45 box is a case of two steps forward and one step back when setting up end floats and clearances.
I would have thought that checking the setting of the rods between the tank lever and the box would be within the owners capacity,with the use of the owners/operators book.
I don't understand "followed the book and did not look at the gaps".
If you used the book,it would tell you to check the gaps,what they should be,and to make a gauge to check them.
The TM book says to make the gauge from ground down steel,the Mechanics School book says to grind down a spoke.

[RCamp]

I'm with duffycycles on this one.
If you only use gauges to set up the shifter forks, you could be dead nuts on, close, or in trouble.
All the variables incurred with these trannys, because of the tolerance stack up, can get you in trouble if you don't do a visual and "feel" to make sure the shifter clutches are engaging in each gear by the maximum amount without bottoming out the dogs on the clutches against the gears, and that there is no drag on the gears in the neutral position.

[Flathead Butch]

Time to fess up. Originally, the trans wanted to jump out of 1st gear. I solved that problem with a simple adjustment of the gear lever. I assumed that in getting the 1st gear correct that 2nd and 3rd would be correct also. Not so according to my manual. On to adjusting 2nd and 3rd. If the problem persists its on to a professional who knows their way around the box. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. You can bet I'm listening.
Larry

[Limey_Dave]

Dissconnect the rod from the lever on the box.Set the gearlever on the tank to "N".
If you rock the lever on the box there's an amount of movement.Set the lever to the centre of the movement,then adjust the rod so it connects to the lever on the box,while still in the centre of the movement.
If all is well in the box,all three gears will be indexed correctly.
If that doesn't sort it,then as mentioned above,the clearance on the gear shaft,and or the first gear selector fork is wrong.
Is this bike new to you,or have you been riding it for some time,and the fault has just started?

[Flathead Butch]

Hi Dave,
I've had the bike a few months but with little time to ride it. The problem has persisted from the start. This seems to be a pretty well built WLA with lots of repro parts. Having said that it rides smoothly but with a little high speed stuttering/missing. As soon as the trans problem is sorted out the carb gets some attention and probably a rebuild from Cotten. New tyres (these are cracked a bit) so a few more months and dollars and I'll have a great little rider. Thanks for your comments. As soon as I get my 35 off the lift I'll get on to the adjustment and hope that solves the problem. Best regards from this side of the pond.
Larry