Ok, now I understand. bike will start with the heavy duty momentary switch under the seat, that is wired from the battery post on the solenoid to the small terminal on the solenoid. Bike will also start with the old tried and true screwdriver trick across the solenoid main terminals.
Trouble shooting is a process of elimination. Keep in mind each point you check you should see close to battery terminal voltage, with the wire lifted at the solenoid. You checked for a voltage drop with the wire connected and the starter cranking. A drop to 7 volts there makes me question the health of the battery.
Your under seat switch has bypassed all of the wiring and terminal points in the start circuit, so with the control wire lifted at the solenoid you should start your point to point voltage drop tests in the original start circuit. Start with the can relay out put pin to the solenoid and work your way back to the start push button. The terminal plug must be checked as well for a voltage drop. A resistance check across the plug can be miss leading. Voltage changes everything.
Trouble shooting is a process of elimination. Keep in mind each point you check you should see close to battery terminal voltage, with the wire lifted at the solenoid. You checked for a voltage drop with the wire connected and the starter cranking. A drop to 7 volts there makes me question the health of the battery.
Your under seat switch has bypassed all of the wiring and terminal points in the start circuit, so with the control wire lifted at the solenoid you should start your point to point voltage drop tests in the original start circuit. Start with the can relay out put pin to the solenoid and work your way back to the start push button. The terminal plug must be checked as well for a voltage drop. A resistance check across the plug can be miss leading. Voltage changes everything.
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