6V LED Converstion

[Reddawg]

I tried searching the forums but the returns I got didn't help. Maybe I need to learn how to use the search tools better but here goes. If I convert the incandescent lights of a 1942 Harley WLA with a 6 volt 32E 3 brush generator to 6 volt LEDs do I have to somehow account for the difference in power usage? I seem to recall reading that I'd have to put in a voltage regulator or something to account for the decreased power use. Or can I simply adjust the generator to lower voltage outputs? Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

RedDawg

[pisten-bully]

RedDawg, here's one to look at from Jason on his Chief (but the issues are similar I think):
https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...mp-Night-Pics=

[Reddawg]

RedDawg, here's one to look at from Jason on his Chief (but the issues are similar I think):
https://forum.antiquemotorcycle.org/...mp-Night-Pics=

Thanks. I'll take a good look at that. I'm sure it will help.

[HDSmitty]

I switched from incandescent to led without any adjustment needed on my generator with NO problems. Voltage is still 6 volts and gen just doesn't have to work as hard. Bulbs are available from Little British Car Co. I posted about this (with part #s) in the Flathead section. Hope this helps!.......Smitty

[PRG]

Howdy sir,

Don’t know a thing about the application of a 32E in a WLA - as opposed to a Knucklehead for which I am - but assuming the same operational format, whereas I would be hesitant to run any modern battery with a three brush the latest generation of LED’s (in the headlight application) are far more flexible. When researching your purchase carefully read the tech specs, many now have a baseline lumens output at minimum 6V with a tolerance range up to as much as 24V. By the way, your third brush only controls output on your primary field field coil, your headlight circuit (if you will) is not and it only increases primarily current, not volts, so with an LED headlight/taillight pulling less than a tenth of the amps of their originals I’d keep an eye on the fluid levels in a lead acid battery as with this reduced load voltage will rise.

[HDSmitty]

Senior moment here. Regarding my post of yesterday, I switched to halogen NOT led in my VL, after being very unsatisfied with the led performance. Halogens are in much better I've found in actual usage and my generator has not been affected that I can tell.

[Reddawg]

I switched from incandescent to led without any adjustment needed on my generator with NO problems. Voltage is still 6 volts and gen just doesn't have to work as hard. Bulbs are available from Little British Car Co. I posted about this (with part #s) in the Flathead section. Hope this helps!.......Smitty

Thanks, Smitty, appreciate the information and the followup. I'll take a look at the halogens as well.

[Reddawg]

Howdy sir,

Don’t know a thing about the application of a 32E in a WLA - as opposed to a Knucklehead for which I am - but assuming the same operational format, whereas I would be hesitant to run any modern battery with a three brush the latest generation of LED’s (in the headlight application) are far more flexible. When researching your purchase carefully read the tech specs, many now have a baseline lumens output at minimum 6V with a tolerance range up to as much as 24V. By the way, your third brush only controls output on your primary field field coil, your headlight circuit (if you will) is not and it only increases primarily current, not volts, so with an LED headlight/taillight pulling less than a tenth of the amps of their originals I’d keep an eye on the fluid levels in a lead acid battery as with this reduced load voltage will rise.

Thanks, PRG. I appreciate the information and am doing my research. I'm pretty good with all the aspects of the bike but electronics have always confused the heck out of me. Hence, I'm taking this slow

[PRG]

Howdy sir,

Know this topic has been covered numerous times but with the decline in quality of lead acid batteries due to lost consumer interest and increased gov. regulation in production I’d probably look to address this once and for all. Both batteries and electronic regulators have evolved significantly, especially in the last 10 years.

Electronic regulators control output through the negative side of the field coils in the illustration below, once removing your 3rd brush assembly, you pair your field positive leads to the armature (+) brush and then former relay terminal and the negative leads to the former switch terminal post. Can’t speak to what regulator you might end up with but 4 wire devices are often universal in wire color. Green (switch terminal), yellow (relay terminal), red (battery) and black (ground). I use and have installed on others the superb VTronic pictured at the link below this conversion page.

Absolutely take this opportunity to fuse your bike (15 amps max at the battery) and highly suggested 10 amps for the regulator. You can now safely run AGM and Lithium Iron batteries, I use the latter wired in parallel for 36 amps in a hollowed out Erdos shell, and not only have they been in service 8-9 years I have never put a charger on them even after long storage.




https://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...41FL/i-KwGT4GX

[Schorsch]

Hi all, fyi, I developed a very robust Regulator as an embedded solution, it means, that unit we can install in any original DelcoRemy cutout relay housing/chassis.
It's available for 6 or 12 Volt and is designed up to 150 Watt, 20 Amp. at 6 Volt no problem, e.g. for police generators necessary. Also, I've LEDs for headlamps
available, they need only 8 Watt and have 1600 lumens. Install it instead your filament bulb, no additional electronic necessary. If you are intarested give me a PM.
George AMCA 2781

[camsaure]

Schorsch, I sent you a message. Thanks, Cam