12 volt conversion - Duo-Glide regulator

[Lonnie]

My '50 EL has been converted to a -61 two-brush generator with the accompanying Duo-Glide small 6-volt regulator and mounting bracket that attaches to the rear motor mount bolts. I am in the (slow) process of converting to 12-volts. I would like to retain a regulator of the same size as the existing regulator but all I seem to find are either the larger '65 - '69 style regulator or the smaller Bosch unit. I do not desire to convert to a Cycle Electric end-of-generator regulator, as good as I know they are. I want to keep the visuals as they are and don't want to rewire the electrics.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

[rwar]

It's not necessarily the easy way out, but what I did was hide a Cycle Electric CE-100 series regulator low behind the transmission. The bike still looks stock.

[rousseau]

Lonnie
I converted my 38 el to 12 volts by using a generator from a ironhead sporster. Used a solid state regulator that fits under the end cover. you cain't tell its there and has worked great for years. You can see one here. http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-089

[Lonnie]

That is a trick conversion, no doubt. I have been trying to leave the motorcycle much the way the original owner, who owned it until his death in 2000, modified it over the years which includes the conversion to 2-brush generator. Also, my desire is to basically just switch out the 6-volt parts to 12-volts, sorta like "Plug and Play". I can go ahead and modify the Duo-Glide regulator bracket to accept the larger 12-volt regulator if I need to. That is what I did to my first panhead, a '61 FL when I owned it in '74-'75. I would pull a regulator off one of the '55 or '57 Chevy parts cars I owned when needed. I did that for some of my buddies also. For whatever reason they never lasted long, either age or vibration or both. My hope with this bike, however, was to find a source for a 12 volt regulator the same size as the 6-volt.

Most of the wiring is original, except for what the original owner did to change the generator, install a horn relay and install a '68 tach plus aftermarket oil pressure gauge and voltmeter. I'm also having to change out all the wiring behind the headlight panel coming from the handlebars since the insulation is almost falling off. I figure I need to install either an inline fuse or breaker at the battery JIC since it does not have one.

This bike will be a good road run bike, what with the gas tanks widened to hold 5 gallons and a 6-quart oil tank. I just need a bit more confidence in the electrics. By converting to 12 volts and installing a factory-style regulator I feel that if I am off somewhere and the regulator quits, I would be more likely to find a replacement. Also, bulbs, etc. are commonplace in 12-V, not so in 6-V. (Ya' never know!)

[vph-d]

I'm not sure hanging a -64 12 volt regulator off that Duo-Glide mount would be a good idea due to it's weight. Have you considered a Bosch 12v regulator off the generator end on a Sportster style mount? I'm not sure of what you're using for a battery now, but none of the 12n5.5 12v yamaha batteries used in 12v conversions since the 70s are worth a sh*t. They boil
dry easily, due to the charging rate difference, and even if watched close, only last a season. You'll have to buy some kind of AGM or gel battery for any kind of reliability

Are you having a problem with the 6v set up to want to change it?
VPH-D

[Lonnie]

Basically, dim lighting. I'm also replacing the handlebar switch internals and the accessory spotlight switch as part of the handlebar rewiring, they are all worn out due to the high mileage on the bike and it is possible that they have contributed to the problem. Though I know I can carry spares, there is a lot of security knowing that if I am off somewhere and have a bulb go out that I can just walk into any parts store chain and pick one up. These national chains do not seem to know what 6-volt is since 1955 was the last year for 6 volt cars.

I bought a quantity of 12-volt prefocus spotlight bulbs so I am good to go there.

Going online, I see that there are small sealed 7.5A 12-volt batteries that should fit into hole. There may be others.

The cycle is so far from original, but never chopped, last updated in '63 or '64, that I am not concerned about original. I'd just like to keep it close to how Barney Grube build it.

[upsrod]

You can buy halogen H-4 6 volt headlight bulbs and 1154 taillight bulbs and wrap them well and carry a couple of each in your tool box, if it is still on the bike.

[Lonnie]

Yup, still has the original toolbox with the original tools.

[vph-d]

Lonnie,
Try to obtain a 12v battery rated at closer to 12 amp rating, to match the 12v generator. V-Twin sells a 12v sealed battery that seems to work OK. I've got 2 Pans with them, one of which is thru it's second year without problems.

I've had good luck with stock style -65 coil and mount, and use a -70 terminal plate, although the -48 terminal plate might clear the coil mount. Don't get the -80 coil by mistake, it has the wrong ohm rating for points ignition. You can use a halogen headlamp, which makes a big improvement.
VPH-D

[PRG]

Howdy chaps.

Thanks Roussseau, very timely, in the process of converting a battery less 6v 59 XLCH to 12v battery maintaining stock appearance. No longer have the luxury of using the same lovely device employed in the last 8 conversions, namely Bob Kizer's PODtronics as they are no longer made. I was about to go to an old timey generator shop this am to see if they had something in a 15amp half volt excite that would fit in a stock 4 post Bosch....not likely.

Beauty of that one is its size ad shape, if purchased I'll trim the plate down to fit in my gutted Bosch rather than use that end cover. The one caution I would make for using this or any other small electronic reg conversionis knowing what the fail amperage is. Most units will not tolerate HD's standard circuit breakers. POD's have an internal 15 amp fail which being electronic is quicker than most standard fuses/breakers. I install a 10amp GM-style fuse right next to the reg under the Bosch/Autolite/miller/Lucas cover to protect them from shorts, especially in apps with original dodgy wiring.

[Lonnie]

The '50 already has the later style coil, mounted on an extension to clear the wider oil tank. So, in theory, for that aspect I just need to switch out to the 12V coil referenced. Also, thanks for the info on the battery, I had not considered that. Free time has become hard to come by, so this may take awhile, though I want it completed well before Daytona. I think I'll go ahead and change out all the bulbs to force my hand on the other issues.

Also, I'm looking for a set of standard/buckhorn handlebars. I'm tall and the existent speedster bars force me into a rather uncomfortable position. I'll post this also in the Wanted section of this forum.

[Frankenstein]

Don't be afraid to go with the 7.5AH Gel cell battery. I've been using for years with good results. I get 2-3 years from them, no problem. Also, When you do the 12 volt conversion, you might consider just changing out the fields in your 61 genny for the fields from a 65A. It makes for a bulletproof conversion, and will easily power a 100w halogen headlight. The only minus to the conversion, is that the engine revs slightly higher before the genny charges at 12 volts. The change is slight and doesn't cause problems. Just something to consider.
DL

[koanes]

Welcome to the AMCA Forum Dick, great to see you here. Your willingness to share experience and expertise will be a real asset to this site.

[Limey_Dave]

This works well with 32E types converted to 12 volts.It's small enough to fit under the early relay cover.

http://www.flatlandmotorcyclecompany...-Prodview.html

[PRG]

Howdy chaps,

Knoweth what you may be purchasing, read below.

http://www.samwelsupplies.com/en/new-items/26-messinger

Rob at Retrocycle is now a Samwell dealer for the Dutch original.