1947 Chief wiring issue

[agreeneone]

Hi All,
I am a new member and this is my first post to the forums. I have a wiring problem that I hope someone can help me with.I recently bought a pretty much original 1947 chief that had been in storage for some time. The wiring was in terrible condition with many cuts and splices. All the electronics did work at the time I bought it but due to the poor condition I decided to replace all the wiring. I bought a new main wiring harness and a 6-Volt battery. The bike also has the universal ignition switch on it. It has the original 6-Volt system on it. I used the wiring diagram from the Riders Instruction Book for reference for the model 346 with universal switch when doing the rewiring. After getting all the wires in the correct positions on the ignition switch and ammeter gauge I wanted to do a test just to make sure things were working properly. I wanted to first test the headlamp, so I mounted the ignition switch & ammeter gauge on the bike. I plugged in the headlamp, nothing else on the harness is yet connected the connections are all loose. The switch was off and the key was out. I connected the ground wire to the that is grounded the bike to the negative terminal. When I touched the positive wire to the battery terminal the eyelet instantly became extremely hot, turned orange and started smoking! I'm hoping someone could offer some suggestions or advice as to what could cause this wire become this hot when connected.
Thanks,
Aaron

[pisten-bully]

I plugged in the headlamp, nothing else on the harness is yet connected the connections are all loose. The switch was off and the key was out. I connected the ground wire to the that is grounded the bike to the negative terminal. When I touched the positive wire to the battery terminal the eyelet instantly became extremely hot, turned orange and started smoking!

Aaron, I was following you but then you lost me! Think you have a typo in there, if the key is out (and switch is off) you've got some wires crossed somewhere. Headlamp is grounded to the fork/frame and not by a separate wire, could it be that you're feeding power into the ground wire?

[agreeneone]

Thanks for the suggestion Pisten Bully. I believe I got ahead of myself when typing the post and left out one important detail. I also changed out the Ammeter gauge during this wiring process with an original correct gauge. It was brought to my attention that it is likely that I do not have the replacement Ammeter gauge properly insulated, and it is probablly grounding itself out on the dash bracket causing this positive wire to overheat.

[pisten-bully]

it is likely that I do not have the replacement Ammeter gauge properly insulated, and it is probablly grounding itself out on the dash bracket causing this positive wire to overheat.

Quite possibly that's it! Hope it all sorts out after you insulate those ammeter mounting studs! Good luck... and if you're up to it... post a picture or three of your Chief!

[agreeneone]

Thanks Pisten-bully, I will post some pictures soon.

[marsh1915hd]

I had a chief that as you tightened the dash down the ammeter would ground out. Put a 6 volt overload switch on it, saves the wires

[agreeneone]

I had a chief that as you tightened the dash down the ammeter would ground out. Put a 6 volt overload switch on it, saves the wires

That is a good idea!

[PRG]

Howdy sir,

Probably doing this operation with the tanks off, so getting ahead of this process, but if you have changed the ammeter in any way via replacement, slightly different positioning, etc. check your clearance to the fuel tank when refitting. Some repro ammeters have longer studs and/or thinner insulators and will easily ground against the tank. Also, best to refit the tanks with the battery disconnected for the same reason as clearances are minimal and any jostling on refitting will cause a short.

[agreeneone]

Good Advise PRG, I will keep that in mind!