Solid State Three Post Relays

[MMasa]

On the solid state three post relays that are available (V-Twin and Gene Harper both make them???)
Does the generator light switch off abruptly like on a mechanical relay or does it just slowly fade? Are Gene's or V-Twins the same in function?
Thanks
Mark

[Paul G Bergeron]

find an old nos one those electronic relays are not the most reliable fail in a short time made in china the ones with points are more reliable would rather have an old one than new one dont know about the harper one but do know about the v twin one paul bergeron minot maine 7989

[BEK]

Hey Mark,

Over the years I've bought 3 solid state relays for 3 different bikes from The Old Dude. I don't know where he gets them, but I have never had a problem with them. The light goes off quickly when it starts, and I have no charging problems. The one I currently have on my '55 pan, I bought and installed in 2004, and in 9 years there have been no problems.

[sidecar]

I’ve got a 47 Knuckle that’s been converted to 12v and has a solid state regulator on the butt end of the gen. It has an eagle head on it and says “Electric’s ?????rk’s” I can’t read the second word. In any case is has Red, Green and Black wires coming out of it. Does anyone know how to hook up these wires so that the Gen idiot light goes out and the battery gets charged? Thanks311BCF7F-446C-4AA3-B185-27924FEFE321.jpg

[gharper]

Mark,

You may be mixing metaphors here...

A "solid state relay" as you call it would be simply a large diode in place of the mechanical cutout. In addition, there is a smaller diode that controls the idiot light. This would be a direct replacement for the mechanical cutout and keeps the generator in it's original 3 brush configuration. I've seen these fail on occasion, but usually because something gets shorted by accident, generator output is set way too high, too many lights, bad ground etc. Electronics do not like shorts, no matter how fast it may be. These are available from Vtwin and other sources, these are made by V-Tronics: http://www.v-tronic.com/products/6-volt-relay-3-pole/

You may have been referring to the electronic 3 post voltage regulator that I USED TO make. These are also available from V-tronics: http://www.v-tronic.com/products/6-v...nic-regulator/ and in my opinion are superior to what I used to make, and cheaper! They both work the same way in essence by varying the generator field voltage in order to regulate generator current output to match the load and at the same time limit maximum voltage output to save your battery. Both use a large diode in place of the cutout and also a small diode controlling the idiot light circuit. Both also require converting the generator to a 2 brush configuration.

To answer your original question: It depends on how fast the generator speed is increasing. If you very slowly increase speed from a slow idle, the idiot light will slowly fade out, as generator output voltage increases to match battery voltage . On the other hand, revving the motor up fast, the light will appear to switch off very quickly. Doing the same with a good mechanical cutout can get the same result.

Gene

[RichO]

Me and my friend have used these for sometime now with no issues. Light goes right out. They come in 6 or 12 volt. We have used the 12 volt ones for our 12 volt conversions. V-twin was the source. I keep a spare on board just in case. I have never had to use it. We also use Cycle Electric 65A generators without the end cap regulator so we can put the 32E cap on them. Looks like you have a 6 volt system on board.

[sidecar]

DrSprocket, can you please scan/photo or somehow up-load your wiring diagram for your solid state regulators for me please?

[RichO]

sidecar, I'll check it out and post tomorrow.

[RichO]

sidecar, I believe you wanted the wiring diagram for a Frank's regulator. If you want it for a v-tronic's (Tedd's) I have that too. That's what I run. Here's Frank's. Black to battery, green to field (gen.), red to armature (gen.), and a wire from armature to dash light. Remember new generator's need flashed but not Cycle Electric as they do them before shipment. Hope this helps. Rich

[sidecar]

Doctor, I had the generator and the V.R. checked out. Gen. was good and the Franks V.R. was bad. I talked with Cycle Electrics and I didn't like their product where you have to change the butt end of the generator to incorporate their regulator. I scrounged around and I now have a Custom Chrome solid state V.R. but once again, I have no wiring diagram. I've got a call into them but I guess their out on holiday. The Custom Chrome V.R. has 3 wires Red, Green & Black. Any idea how to wire it up correctly? Thanks

[RichO]

Does it look like and mount like a stock relay if so the v-tronics website offers a wiring diagram for theirs that should work. Look inside it should be a diode or a resistor or whatever ( I'm electronic challenged).

[sidecar]

Thanks for the help guys. I got a Custom Chrome Inc. solid state voltage regulator, made by “Motor Works” PN# 28092. It has red and green LEDs to indicate whether it’s making power or not. CCI called me and gave me the hook-up instructions for the Red, Green & Black wires and they were surprisingly logical. Green-Field, Black (the color of) Battery and Red to the Armature where you touch a Hot jumper wire to polarize the generator. Also the idiot light for the dash comes off of the Armature post. The idiot light is powered ON when the generator Is Not Making Power. When it IS making power, the idiot light gets an additional Hot off of the gen. (And looses it’s ground) and the light Goes Out because it no longer has a ground (it has two hots). Thanks again.